BIGTREETECH SKR V1.4 Motherboard, 32 Bit DIY 3D Printer Control Board, Support Marlin/Klipper, Compatible with TMC2208/TMC5160/EZ2209 and TFT35 E3/ TFT70/ Mini12864 Touch Screen

I was hesitant seeing the way it was delivered and the high return notification. I gave it a chance and I am very impressed. Although the seal was broken on arrival and the duck was missing (guess a employee wanted it) after creating my own klipper config file (which is available at reddit and klipper discord config section) and changing everything over it has been a fantastic experience. I swapped out a stock sv06 plus board to this skr3ez board. I have dual z with dual zalign , great power to steppers, and there quiet, I have sensorless homing working great and using stealthchop (which I was told No board can do) this board idles around 40-50C I do have a fan on it for cooling. And it's doing all this on a Meanwell 350watt power supply.

First board arrived non-functional, however, they quickly sent me a replacement and it worked great. Easy to program with Marlin. Pronterface worked with absolutely no issues for fine tuning/calibration. Runs very quiet.

The SKR3 controller board is quite a bit faster @ 480 MHz "claimed" clock rate than BTT’s previous controller line up. Installation requires a different board enclosure, since the SKR3 EZ hole pattern has changed. I believe the SKR3 non EZ has the same hole patter as before. There are plenty of SKR3 EZ enclosure model on the Internet, essentially ready to print.The controller has some firmware installed, but who knows what it does. So you'll need to compile firmware that matches your printer.* Don't disassemble your existing printer yet, if you have only one, hi, hi. ***********************************************************************************************************************For those that upgraded from a previous version, using sensor-less homing on Y / X axis, *** be aware if you removed the Diagnostics pin (TMC2209) in one or another way, you'll need to reinstall it again. *** Otherwise your sensor-less homing will not work. It requires the diagnostic pin to be connected to the socket. The small jumper, used on the SKR3 EZ, will direct the signal. This is not required with the EZ TMC2209 driver, aside they don' have these pins.*********************************************************************************************************************Other than that, it will work just as your previous setup. Perhaps you may have had the hot-end cooler fan connected to the HE1 header. In this case the fan runs on "board voltage supply". If the DC/DC module is installed, one has now the choice to select 5V or 12V fan supply (buck converter) as supposed to the board voltage. The Hot-End fan can also be moved to one of the fan header (requires modification of firmware). There are now 3 controllable fan header that will get their supply voltage from the DC/DC module (if Installed and setup). I guess this option is useful to original Prusa printer having 5V fans.I have another printer that runs the SKR3EZ board with TMC2209EZ driver, for a while. The only thing, I believe, that has not caught up to these boards, is probably the Marlin Firmware. This printer does on occasion some unexpected stuff (deviating from a certain sequence), but I think it is firmware related. Otherwise it prints flawless!I recommend some form of cooling to the driver, perhaps simply a fan blower at the bottom opening of the board enclosure?

So, it's a neat idea. Compact form factor and all the output and functionality you need with nothing you don't.I got it working, but would I do it again?Well, it's supposed to work with Marlin, but good luck with that. If you have the skill to make it work, why would you. I tried while I was tinkering because I'm well versed Im marlin and wanted to troubleshoot before adding klipper while my CB2 was shipping.So, it must be good once klipper is installed right? Well, not really. it's more compact than a board and a pi, sure. But if you're building it into anything larger than an stock ender that doesn't really matter and even then, you have to print a custom case which by the way, the one big tree tech provides an STL for is terrible. Go on thingiverse and find a better one, which make the electronics enclosure larger, which kills the point of the board.The whole size of a stock board thing is sort of a salesman lie. It bolts up the same, but it is larger and the wiring is TIGHT and you won't have access to some of the ports if you use the provided case.Oh also, it's a lot easier to use auto power off features if you use an external pi because it's much trickier to shut down a compute module, before powering off the computer. It might not be possible at a, I'd have to dig more but if it is possible big tree tech should have that info in the github because it would be very useful, the fact that it's not makes me think they didn't think that through. A normal raspberry pi has it's own power supply so you can power it separately from the printer to use a clean power off cycle.it works, but it's not what they advertise and a version 2 will hopefully fix that, but it will be too late for me. I won't be using this or any manta again for another build without a HUGE overhaul.

Works well with my CB1 CPU and BTT HDMI5 Display.

The seal of the box was open when it arrived, so it makes me wonder if they sent me an already returned bad board.The board will power on via USB, however, will not show up in the list of USB devices in Windows or Linux when I scanned them. Flashing the firmware did not fix it.I have requested a replacement, but steer clear.