Bohning Platinum Fletch Tite 3/4oz

There is no glue as forgiving or as strong as Fletch Tite. That is as long as you have the time and patience it takes to apply it properly and wait the required drying time.Like many other reviewers I have built my own arrows for close to 30 years now. Unlike some of them I have tried about every glue on the market made for fletching arrows and some not made specifically for that purpose. I am primarily a carbon arrow shooter and I use arrow wraps about 90% of the time. For the most part when you use wraps a quick drying glue can work well, but if you are fletching directly to the arrow, especially carbon, something more forgiving like Fletch Tite is a much better option. It is also the one I would recommend for first timers because it is much more forgiving and easier to work with. It is also the best for larger vanes and/or feathers.Like many have said it's in the prep. Regardless of what glue you use the fletching needs to be cleaned to remove any oil residue. If you do not include that step your chances of success are greatly reduced - especially if you use a quick drying glue. I have tried rubbing alcohol and it does work okay, but I find acetone to be a much better option. For one thing it dries super fast. The downside is if you spill it, pretty much on anything other than metal or glass, it will damage the surface...permanently. I normally use a shot glass, which are pretty stable, and use a Q-tip dipped in the acetone to wipe the surface of the fletching.I apply a thin film of Feltch-Tite to the fletching and if needed I spread it evenly with a toothpick or other small piece of wood. Most of the time I can skip this step. Since I have used it so many times I have gotten pretty good at dispensing the correct amount of glue. When I attach the fletching to the arrow I like to start the pressure on one end and sort of roll the fletching\clamp onto the arrow shaft versus just moving it down vertically. It seems to help spread the glue evenly and remove any air bubbles. I apply a firm pressure for a few seconds then leave the clamp in place for 3-5 minutes before removing the clamp and moving on to the next one. The last step is to apply a very small dollop of glue at the tip of the fletching. Depending on the size of the fletching I might put some on the tail end as well. Then it's just a matter of waiting a couple of days for the glue to set.Yes it takes time for the glue to dry, but if done correctly it will be a more permanent bond than any fast drying adhesive because it does not get brittle. In the end it often comes down to how badly you want to shoot your arrows. I also use some quick drying glues when I am testing arrows or only have a couple to do. But if I have a configuration/design I like and plan to use those arrows for a long time, I use Fletch Tite Platinum. It does the job and does it very well. I have never ever had a fletching come off that was glued on with Fletch Tite. Period !!

It seems these days archery glue merchants try to get 10 to 20 bucks for a small quantity of glue that probably costs less than 25 cents to manufacture. I paid 6 bucks for this tube, so it was far cheaper than the other glues on the market. I've noticed several merchants here trying to sell this same glue for over twelve bucks a tube, which is ridiculous.I have used various glues through the years and this stuff is good-- IF one follows the instructions. Those instructions are simple: PREPARE THE SHAFT BEFORE APPLYING THE GLUE. I like to use very fine sandpaper and then another acetone or denatured alcohol rinse. Make sure the shaft is perfectly clean and dry. Then I apply the vanes, ALLOWING ENOUGH TIME TO DRY. I suggest a good 10 minutes before releasing clamps... and then this glue has a 48 hour full-cure time. Don't try to skimp on that cure time. If you do, it's not the glue's fault if vanes come off. Once it cures it holds like iron... for years. A vane will tear and rip before that glue lets loose.ONE TRICK I like to do is: once the vanes are on the shaft and set, I put an entire FULL RING of glue around the front and back of the vane, covering the vane tip and rear. Use some saliva or water on your fingertip to "flatten" the glue ring (doesn't hurt the glue and that way it won't stick to your finger). That way if the vane does hit something, the glue takes the brunt of impact instead of the front of the vane. Doing this... there's no need to 'string wrap' your vanes unless you just want the look. (If you do string wrap, put a coating of this glue over the string when you're done. Holds forever.)That's it. That's a fool-proof method for getting vanes or feathers to stick to any kind of shaft forever (carbon, graphite, aluminum, wood). If you don't cut any corners, those vanes or feathers will stay adhered longer than the arrow itself will last.This is the best glue I've found for vanes and fletchings, but also works with a whole bunch of other materials: wood, metal, plastic, glass and more. Unlike super glues it doesn't crystalize over time, but retains its consistency and holds very well, for years. I have some arrows that I fletched 20 years ago with this stuff and it's still holding.That said, you can go down to your local dollar store or hardware store and buy standard clear household glue that will work just as well for fletching arrows... and will cost a whole lot less. So why do I use Fletch Tite? Because I absolutely know it will work, no questions. That said, just for the fun of it my next set of arrows I'm fletching with clear handyman glue. At my age it doesn't have to last 25 years. ; )Understand that with all such glues you have to give them their full curing time. I noted one user here only allowed 24 hour drying time on this glue on dozens of arrows-- and then complained about all his vanes coming off. The manufacturer clearly states 48 hours for full cure. That's a drawback, but it's also the reality for this kind of glue. Take that time seriously, be patient, and you won't lose vanes. It's that simple.The problem with quick-drying super glues is that they crystalize over time, then the vanes will start shredding all at the same time. You'll be at a competition or practicing, and suddenly the arrows that worked perfectly well the week before will start losing their vanes all at once, because the glue crystalizes with considerable predictability.The one drawback of FletchTite is that it tends to dry out in the tube. One trick is when you first use the glue, open the top (with a nail or whatever), attach the tip, tap the tube with your fingers several times to get air bubbles to the top and squeeze the tube slightly to get the air out of the tube. You don't want air inside the tube or your tube life will degrade considerably. Do this after each time you use the glue; get the excess air out of that tube. It doesn't hurt to squeeze a little glue into the cap before putting it on the applicator. That keeps air out of the tip, and the dried glue is easily removed from the vinyl tip.This is simply the best there is for what it does. For putting vanes on arrows, I've found nothing better.