Bathtub and Shower 3-Handle Remodel/Rebuild Trim Kit for American Standard Colony Faucets | Cross-Arm Handle | 9C-23H, 9C-23C, 11C-1D | Chrome (39614)

Works great.

See end for drip fix. This kit has all the parts you need to rebuild an American Standard Colony tub faucet. You will most likely require additional tools NOT in the kit.tools needed: towel knob removal tool (small gear puller or General Tools 180 Faucet Handle Puller) steel screw for knob removal (flat head, 3/4" x 8-32 threads) small pipe wrench stem socket (included with kit) steel rod (5/16" x 10") OR T-handle and 7/8" socket for stem socket extra long 5/16" hex socket and T-handle NOT a box store seat wrench scrap of top grain leather about 2" x 6" FLEXCUT gold polishing compoundif diverter valve has fallen apart inside faucet, you will also need: flashlight 12" vise grips screw extractor set tweezersPut a towel over the drain to keep parts from getting away. My tub had not been serviced in a number of years, scale buildup made things difficult to disassemble. The knobs would not come off. I removed the brass knob screw and replaced it with a 3/4" x 8-32 thread steel flathead screw. The screw then sticks out a bit and a small gear puller, General Tools 180 Faucet Handle Puller, or some similar tool will remove the handle. The trim tubes had to be removed with a pipe wrench.The kit includes a stem socket, but no means to turn the socket. I used a rod (about 5/16" dia x 10") to put in the hole on the stem removal socket. A 7/8" socket and a Sliding Wrench Breaker Bar T-Handle Socket Hand Tool will also work. In any event, use a T handle, a ratchet wrench or breaker bar can damage the faucet or pipes. The box store L handle seat wrench failed to work for me. I ended up using a 3/8" drive socket T-Handle and an extra long 5/16" hex drive socket to remove the valve seats. I put a strip of masking tape about 1/2" from the end of the hex bit to keep the seat in an appropriate position.When I removed the diverter valve, it looked nothing like the replacement part. The original valve had fallen apart and pieces were still inside the faucet. I had to use spiral screw extractors (held with vise grip) to remove diverter valve parts from my faucet because the washer retaining screw came off and all the diverter valve parts were loose inside the faucet. I could then use tweezers to remove the screw from the valve seat.The reassembly process went smoothly until the leak test. The faucets dripped. After taking it all apart and inspecting the washers and seats, I found the surfaces on the seats to be poorly finished. I polished the seats smooth with FLEXCUT Gold Polishing Compound on a scrap of top grain leather. No leaks now! The trim pieces are not quite as nice as the original American Standard brass and chrome, but they serve the purpose.

After multiple attempts at a DIY tub/shower handle replacement, finally found one that works. So far so good

I bought this kit and installed it. It is working but I will be changing all the valve stems again. There are at least two different stem lengths, from a different manufacturer catalog (Kissler) I see 4 3/8" and 5". This kit seems to be the smaller/shorter. It does not affect the inner workings but may affect your ability to install the handles, as if the stems are too short the handle will hit the tile before it locks onto the stem. The handles supplied are also a little different than the original and must be seated even further onto the stem (closer to wall). That 5/8" difference means a lot. I cannot put the escutcheon (cover plate), which is already much thinner than the original onto the valve and then get the handle to attach.Aside from that, the kit seems like it can be a good deal as it comes with the removal tool which is now easier to find online than it was for me 3 years ago. My original diverter valve broke apart in the body and I needed to improvise some extraction techniques, but the new one seems to work ok. I changed the seats on the supply valves. They came out easy. The standard design seat wrench may bottom out and be unable to install the new seats. Apparently the size of the wrench opening can differ on existing seats. I needed to use an 8mm allen wrench (or sae equivalent) to install the new seats.I still had a slow drip/leak after install. I had not used teflon or dope on the seats. I removed the valves the next day and redid the seats with both tape and dope. I also changed the bib washers (the one that contacts the seat) as I did not like the look of the supplied washers. I put in a slightly larger '0' flat washer, but I think a beveled washer might be better at providing more control over pressure as you open the valve. It dripped again for about an hour, then I cycled it on and off and the drip stopped.I cannot judge the quality of the valves beyond what I have written. They seem to be working. I didn't see any major flaws in them, but I also didn't see anything in the craftsmanship that left me overly impressed. They do not seem as good as valve stems I had handled 30 years ago, but I do not know if anyone makes them like they used to.Note on the 'wave washer': Mine came assembled with the metal springlike cutout washer at the end, just behind the cup that holds the bib washer. Searching online I found several photos with it in different locations in relation to the other washers. I could not find any reliable info on the purpose of this washer or where it should be placed. The stems I removed did not seem to have this washer. I left it where it was, but I cannot be sure if it actually does anything or if it is in the right spot.

These parts are an excellent match to what I removed. The kit was expensive but I would not want lesser parts to get a better price. This kit has been working well for about a month now.