Question 1

When using heater only, why does our water fill up and need to be drained every 2-3 hours? are we doing something wrong? both hoses are in use. la, ca

Accepted Answer

It's the nature of the beast if you understand how the heat pump/AC units work for there to be condensation. To explain all AC units, I start with the compressor that takes in low pressure Freon gas (like 30 psi) and compresses it to high pressure (like 150 psi) which makes it go quite hot.  The hot gases are then sent thru a set of coils to send the heat where we want (like in a window AC unit thru the coils outside the window, or in a car thru coils near the car radiator, but in these it goes thru the coils in the lower section that gets cooled from outside air coming thru the tubes).  Once the gas is cooled thru those from ~150 to 90 degrees or such, the pressure is released as the gas goes thru an orifice and the gas expanding goes cold to like 32 degrees.  That cold gas is then sent thru another set of coils to cool the space we want (like thru the top section of these to blow cold air into the room).  After that the low pressure gas returns to the compressor to restart the cycle.
That's the basics of all AC systems.  Part of why they get called "Air conditioners" and not just "Air coolers" is because the cold section always attracts moisture where you get condensation (just like a cold soda can being wet after sitting for a few minutes) making them "dehumidify" as well as cool.  While these run as an AC, they have the water formed in the cold top section drain to the bottom where most of it helps cool the hot coils, it gets evaporated and blown out the window with hot air making it seem like there is no water formed.  Yet when run as a heat pump (where the top section gets hot to put heat in the room while the lower goes cold) there's no way the water flows uphill to the hot section, so you need to drain it constantly or have the pump send it out the window.  I've seen a half gallon produced in 6 hours run time to show how much can come thru.
Some may find that a pain to deal with, yet these do give you about 2 times the heat from the same energy as running a space heater (to show there is a benefit).  So sorry about that, but condensation forming on a cold metal surface is going to happen like it or not.

Question 2

What are the dimensions of the window kit?

Accepted Answer

The included window kit measures, 6.5"" W x 20"" L (minimum), 46"" (maximum). If the included solid window kit slide bars do not completely cover your window or door opening, most customers purchase an additional window kit (model ARC-WK-DUALN) and use both sets.Please contact our Consumer Support Team, Monday - Friday 8:30 AM - 4:30 PM PST at 1-866-WHYNTER (1-866-949-6837) and at support@whynter.com should you have additional questions.

Question 3

Is this an energy star certified air conditioner?

Accepted Answer

There are currently no portable air conditioner units on the market that meet the energy star qualifications.

Our Consumer Support Team is available Monday - Friday 8:30 AM - 4:30 PM PST at 1-866-WHYNTER (1-866-949-6837) and at support@whynter.com should you have additional questions.

Question 4

Why are the exhaust and intake set so close together in the window attachment? It seems like a design flaw causing intake to pull in hot exhaust air

Accepted Answer

That is an interesting question.  I gave one of these to my brother and he also suggested "It would be better if you took in air from one window and sent it out another to avoid the same air quickly circulating right back in" which I can agree with.  The issues with that are they need to add more parts (2 window kits), be sure you have 2 different windows in the room, perhaps add much more hose lengths, and more to raise costs.  Also they want it to fit in as many windows as possible including some ~15 inches, so those things make the designers keep them close together like they do.  I've seen some say they made a baffle to direct out-going air one way versus incoming that you can do (but perhaps they should add such).
In many ways the same thing is true in terms of the room air circulation where much of it goes out the front just to quickly flow back to the intake so it cools a space ~5 feet around itself and no more.  I personally taped a metal floor vent over the top and have a 6 inch tube routing cool air ~10 feet away from it, thus it cools a much bigger space with the circulation forced further away.  So there are improvements possible, yet keeping a "all in one" unit design forces you into certain things like that.
FYI I still think having 2 hoses is better than 1.  Those with only 1 do "blow hot air out the window", but they don't tell you about the outside air being pulled back into the room to make up for everything going out (and I think of that outside air coming into the cooled space like leaving the fridge door open where it'll never keep up with it).  That's as big or a bigger "design flaw" in my mind in many units where having a complete loop for outside air circulation (in one tube and back out the 2nd) is much better (even with them close) versus the single hose units taking cooled room air to go out and bringing in outside air constantly.  Lots to consider.

Manufacturer	Whynter LLC
Item model number	ARC-122DHP
Product Dimensions	40.64 x 43.18 x 74.93 cm; 31.75 kg
ASIN	B015P2HKJ6

Whynter Elite ARC-122DHP 12,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner and Heater, Dehumidifier, Fan with Activated Carbon Filter Plus Autopump and Storage Bag for Rooms up to 400 sq ft, Silver

Details

Description

Specifications

Have a Question? See What Others Asked

Common Questions