10pcs E10 6V Warm White LED Bulbs Light Lamps 5SMD 0.5W 50LM (Warm White, 6V)

Look people... These are your basic, run-of-the-mill, Chinese quality LEDs in a standard SMD '5050' package. A total of five SMD chips have been cobbled together into an E10 miniature bulb screw base. No, the physical construction isn't the highest quality, (the circuit board solder doubles as mechanical/structural elements.) However, these bulbs DO function correctly. Yes, they ARE “bright”. Yes, you CAN expect about 75-80 lumens from a single bulb, but ONLY if you drive them optimally.Despite the best efforts of sellers to the contrary; LED bulbs, when used inside older incandescent lighting fixtures, are NOT (necessarily) simple drop-in replacements... Most of the 1-star reviews you see here are clearly from people who simply don't have the knowledge to understand why their bulbs are dim or non-functional. While this is unfortunate for them, it doesn't mean that YOU can't get great results from these cheap little guys.OK. This review will be about the "3V" version of the E10 LED bulb. These are the "base model”, as the SMD chips used within the bulb are designed to directly run at a 3.3VDC potential. No voltage step-down stage is required inside the bulb. I also assume most people will be powering these from standard AA & AAA size batteries:1. Do NOT expect these 3V LEDs to work well with only 2 battery cells. Period. Yes, I know what you are thinking: "Dear Reviewer, my two AA batteries are 1.5V each... together that equals 3V." Also, "Dear Sir, the seller clearly states that these are for 3V..." Sorry, but if you believe that, then you'll be plagued with disappointment and regret.As mentioned earlier, these devices are DESIGNED to function at 3.3V. Why? Because, this is the switching logic-level for all CMOS transistors made since the mid-80's. That means that your bulb will only barely start glowing at ~2.4V. Heck, each LED's phosphor layer will not even become fully energized until hitting about 3.1V. But, please, feel free to test me on this fact using your own variable power supply.Additionally, your alkaline batteries are not really 1.5V... At load, they will average more like 1.3V for most of their run life. But wait, you also want to use your fancy Eneloop NiMH rechargeable batteries, right? Well, those don't help the situation. NiMH battery chemistry will output about 1.4V-1.3V only for the first 20% of their capacity. NiMH then drops to 1.2V after that for the rest.2. OK, so now we've established that using only two AA, (or AAA) cells will get you a quick trip to sad-town. So what battery configuration should I pair with these? The short answer is anything that can output a REAL voltage that stays between 3.3V-5.8V. The long answer is that you want to keep the total current of these bulbs under 300mA. Each LED '5050' chip has what is called a maximum continuous forward current known as 'If'. This is the highest amount of sustained current that the chip can handle without extra cooling solutions. I don't have the spec sheet for these exact LEDs, but a 5050 package normally has an If of about 60mA. Since there are 5 of these chips within a bulb, the max long-term current draw should be limited to less than 300mA. Going over this amount for brief periods will not kill the chip, but it will drastically reduce its expected lifetime due to thermal issues slowly degrading it.Therefore:Three rechargeable NiMH AAs, (or AAAs), will give you a sustained voltage between 4.2V to 3.6V throughout its runtime. I'd estimate this configuration will give you ~50 lumens. Four NiMH cells at between 5.6V to 4.8V will do even better. With four cells, you'll get about 75 lumens at the cost of reducing your battery runtime. As for alkaline type batteries, three cells will also work great. Four alkaline cells will give the brightest configuration and draw just under the 300mA limit. However, four alkaline cells are right on the limit. Your mileage may vary, but I'd only use rechargeables in a four cell configuration. Yes, the alkalines will perform a bit better than the rechargeables, but you'll spend more in the long run constantly purchasing new batteries. Besides, your kids will hate you in 50 years because all those batteries will still be rotting in a landfill leaching goo into your water supply... I guess this is a case of pay a little extra now, or pay a lot later.3. Finally, what if your LED bulb simply doesn't work? It's got to be the seller's fault for scamming you, right? Well... I'm not going to say that you won't get a bad one, but if they ALL don't work... Then, it’s probably your device/fixture’s fault, not the bulb’s.More than likely, your device's battery tray is wired-in backward. How can this possibly be? Well, your old incandescent bulb can pass current in both directions. In other words, it has no polarity. However, an LED can pass current in only a single direction. LEDs are like one-way valves. "But, Mr. Reviewer, my little shabby-chic hurricane lantern is from Pottery Barn. I paid, [insert-crazy-inflated-price-here], for it. How can it be wired backwards? They wouldn’t do that to me." Since a normal bulb works in both directions, then why would a backwards battery tray be a quality issue for the company? It wouldn't, and they wouldn’t have checked for it.So, if you are unlucky enough to be in this situation, just reverse your batteries around or swap the red & black wires by resoldering them. I personally had to swap mine around. After the swap, my kid was off-to-the-races using his old over-priced lantern with these new LED-powered bulbs. They worked great from inside the couch-cushion/blanket-fort that he built. Cheap LED bulbs for the win!!!Well, I believe that is it. I hope this review/run-down of these generic E10 bulbs will be of help to others. You get what you pay for. These are super cheap, but with a bit of forethought and realistic expectations, I believe you too will find these little bulbs suitable for your application.

These work fine, though they are only for 6 VDC, and I needed 6 VAC lamps.These were such good value that I am keeping them to use in a couple 6V flashlights that I own.

Bought these to use as general illumination inside buildings on a model train layout. I connected to a DC transformer with variable voltage, so I can control the bulb brightness. They seem to work fine. Only thing is, since the LEDs are basically exposed around the "bulb", they're really best for an installation that shades or covers the bulb, which is what I'm doing.

Did not work as advertised. All the bulbs were tested individually and worked. Just would not work in existing sockets. I do think that the bases on the bulbs are just to short to reach the center of the sockets. O' Well

I was so glad they still carried these. I bought these a couple years ago and lost track as to where I purchased them. After some time searching for these low voltage LED bulbs, I found them. Great product and got them in just a few days. Thank You !

I don't know its intended purpose, but i bought these to replace a bulb from a salt lamp (Pure Enrichment PureGlow USB Salt Lamp if you're wondering) and it works (even with the 5 levels of brightness) so no complaints here. Warning: I would only use it in a situation where it is covered by a shade or salt rocks in my case.

These bulbs work well for what I bought them for. Keep in mind that if you are looking for a flashlight bulb, these may not work well unless you have a good silver reflector behind them, because the bulb has LED elements on the end but mostly on the sides. Just be aware so you are getting a bulb that fits your needs.

Does what it says.