API Liquid Super Ick Cure, 150 Gram

This medicine works like magic I m really happy it cured my fished within 4 days from white spots.

Good product cures ick fast .

When i saw the small white dots on the fin of my fish, I immediately increased the temperature and added more API salt... 2 days later the fish were all fine, but was not sure if the invisible parasites were still roaming or multiplying in my aquarium... few days later I recieved the product and did follow the treatment as indicated in the bottle...now all my fish are fine ...and they are very happy.

My two of goldfishes got white powder type things across the body. I became anxious because treatment Ich isn't easy and it could mean their end. I used this product and it solved the issue within 48 hours. But, I followed their instructions to give the second dose after 48 hours to make sure Ich is fully iradicated from my aquarium. If it helps, I also used Seachem Stress Guard with this.

Good

This product is indeed excellent and result oriented. My infected fishes cured just in one dose. Recommend to purchase for earliest treatment of white spot diseases of fish.

Need to be very careful.. don't add more.. it kills fishes. Otherwise it's a good one

Excellent product, noticeable results after 1 application, all white spots on my Cardinal and Black Neon Tetras gone after the 2nd dose after 48 hrs. Strongly recommended.

This is a useful treatment to keep on hand if you have an aquarium. The instructions are straightforward, and the bottle makes it easy to measure the correct dose. I used it at the first signs of white spots and saw a clear improvement quickly. It is suitable for both freshwater and saltwater tanks, though it should not be used in reef aquariums. A reliable product from a trusted brand, and handy to have available before problems get worse.

API Super Ick Cure Tank Details: -10 gallon, heavily planted -Driftwood with current biofilm -78°F usually -6.5 pH, slowly increasing with blanched cuttlebone -0 ppm Nitrite & Nitrate <0.25 ppm Ammonia -Relatively low GH & KH; working on establishing a bit higher levels 1x Crowntail Male Betta 2x Shrimp 1x Mini Mexican Lobster 2x Nerite Snails 1x Chinese Striped Butterfly Loach 1x Golden Siamese Algae Eater Stocking is not ideal; however an acquaintance of mine needed to get rid of the algae eater & loach asap so I was working with what I had. Mid-process of cycling to upgrade to a 40 gallon breeder. Fluval filter is rated for 30 gallons and my water parameters have always been excellent. No bio-spikes, no tank aggression, everyone gets a frozen or blanched diet. Was unable to sufficiently quarantine the loach or algae eater (completely my fault and inability) so that’s how we ended up here… Onto the Ich! Everyone has been okay for about a week; then two days ago (as of May 12th, 2026) I noticed a singular white spot on my betta (Sukuna). Genuinely thought it was a color shift or mutation since he is still a juvenile. Nope; more spots appeared within the two days. Immediate yikes, and I knew I had messed up horrifically with ‘saving’ those two bottom-feeders. Immediately ordered API Super Ick Cure. It’s important to note that no other fish had shown signs of ick. No spots, no lethargy or rubbing, etc. Sukuna did not display any behavioral changes; no real rubbing or scratching, no lethargy, no loss in appetite. Maybe had his fins a bit more narrow. However I was confident this was ick and not something else. Going into this; I knew there was a massive risk of treating given the invertebrates present. I was unable to set up a quarantine tank, so we had to go risky and treat the whole tank. It should be noted this is not recommended as the copper in ick treatments can harm / kill invertebrates and loaches, etc. Before treating, I did a 30% water change. Tested water beforehand, parameters were perfect as usual. Used water conditioner plus stress coat on replacement water. Day Zero, 5/12: Removed activated charcoal portion of filter media. Treated with 5ml despite having a 10 gallon; I wanted to try and salvage the invertebrates and loach if possible. I also gradually began to increase the temperature from 78° to 84°, over a period of 18 hours. Cranked up my airstone output and filter aeration as warm water doesn’t hold as much dissolved O2. Tentatively hopeful, everyone seemed okay. Day One, 5/13: Everyone still alive & active. Sukuna does seem to be flashing / rubbing on things now, but he does seem to have less white spots attached. Did a 20% water change, treated new water with conditioner + stress coat. Treated with 5 mL of Super Ick Cure. Temp up to 86° this seemed to get the rest of the white spots off so they could hatch & become vulnerable to treatment. Day Two, 5/14: Everyone great again this morning. Both shrimps still alive, one even molted. Everyone still active, inverts still eating (fed after water change, before adding treated water). Increased water aeration and air stone has resulted in a small fin tear, but other than that Sukuna is extremely active, very engaged and eating great. No more white spots. 20% water change, 5 ml Ick treatment. Temp at 84-86°. Days Three, 5/15: Sukuna seemed a littler lethargic / breathing fast today, but still ate and swam some. Made sure to adjust airstone to get more O2. Dosed at 5 mL but did not do water change. Day Four, 5/16: Sukuna was much more active and engaging today. Ate his food. Everyone is still alive. Did not change water, and did not medicate. Day Five, 5/17: Everyone is active and alive still. Did not change water, but did medicate again with 5 mL. Added stress-coat to the water, about 5 mL. Day Six, 5/18: Everyone still good! Did a 20% water change. Did not medicate water, but added stress coat. Day Seven, 5/19: Everyone alive and well. Considering this my last day of treatment, but I will kept the aquarium temp up to 84° for the next few days. Will treat with 5 mL today, change water tomorrow, and call my tank Ich free!

For me worked better sea salt .. maibe its my fault

This medicine is actually a wonder-medicine, I should say, because it reduced the symptoms in one use. Usually the ICH medication or any other medication shouldn't be used in fry tank, but this time, I used it in Jaguar Cichlids fry tank (2 month old fry), in one day 90% spots disappeared! I used 4-5 drops in small tank and a pinch of aquarium salt. Then changed water after 6 hours. Again repeated the same. I am not sure if it is correct method, but it works. I highly recommend this for breeders. Thanks for this excellent medicine.

Good and useful product