Walthers 904-299 Goo Glue Cement

Walthers has produced this fine rubber cement for hobby kit assembly & general use for 30+ years. Long lasting, durable, stores well. Great for paper, cardboard, wood & leather other porous materials. Not best choice for for plastic or metal.

I have used this product for years in the model / hobby world. I have to admit, I am kind of a specialist for using different kinds of glues for my hobby. I probably use 6 different kinds of glues / adhesives for many of my projects. However, For some specific jobs, there is no substitute. It sticks to any dry surface, and that is its fortay. Odor is mild, and not offensive. Goo is a type of contact cement. It has a vapor cure. Is a one component, not heat sensitive in curing, but like most glues / cements, it cannot be used below freezing, or above ""too hot to touch"" environments. Dries to a rubbery, non cracking result. Goo is tolerant of mild vibrations, and resists cracking.... Only criticism, (but not a deal killer for use,) is that it has a final brown finish color, which does not always make the best presentation in view sensitive places. You therefore, must use Goo very sparingly in view areas, where it will show. Goo must be kept tightly closed when not in use, as the vapor will leak out, and shorten the shelf life... It is kind of a small use, specialty item, that is pricy. Yet, as I said earlier, for some specific uses, there is no substitute. I reach for it often....

This is my goto adhesive for dissimilar materials such as metal to plastic (lightly sand the joining surfaces) or plastic to wood. Use it like contact cement: apply to one surface, press together then immediately pull apart and allow both surfaces to dry then press firmly together. A very strong joint.

Like it.. model trains

This unknown adhesive is truly an amazing tool. Every home needs a tube or two. Walthers is like a cross between rubber cement and epoxy. It bonds most materials. It remains flexible (unlike expoxy) when dry/cured. It's like rubber cement on steroids. Our neighbor was trying to attach a piece of carpet on the floor of his boat cockpit to the fiberglass. He was stumped. I brought over my Walthers. With not very much in several spots, the rug remains in place to this day. He's still in awe, and got a gift of a tube from me (from Amazon of course) as a gift. It's about as basic and essential as a screwdriver.

Will any kind of disparate materials, tho sometimes will loosen after several years. Difficult to apply- it trails little Goo strings, and easily lumps up thicker than I would like. Easy cleanup when it oozes out of a joint-just let it dry for a while and then twirl a toothpick it it. Otherwise it is messy. Fumes are corrosive on enclosed plastic, but it is the best way I know to affix weights in freight cars . Just be sure to wait a day before putting carbody shells on (Mnftrs recommend don't use it for weight attachment, but I have never had a problem if I have let it offgas a day before enclosing it). A joint is flexible for a while after attachment. I have found it to be a godsend when installing slope sheet bracing in the ends of open hopper cars. Attach the bracing casting at the coupler end, and leave it in the best position to be out of your way. Then do the maneuvering of other parts like the brake lever. When all is in place, swing the unattached end of the brace casting over to the slope sheet and glue it in place with a glue more easy to apply. Goo is one of my less frequently used glues, but at times it saves my bacon. There are other contact cements, but I prefer to use Goo because after 67 years in model railroading I know exactly how it behaves and therefore whether it will be useful in my current need.

Very good glue product. Works well on plastic or multiple material combinations. Easy to use.

everything came in great shape.