Cobra Products 30500 Cobra 30000 Pipe Auger, for Use with Most Small and Medium Household Drains, 1/2 in X 50 Ft, 50'

I have a kitchen sink drain pipe that runs 40 feet to the sewer line. There is very little drop/pitch to the line for most of the length and there is a low spot or two. The drain pipe slowly clogs up every year or so. In the past I have had to call a plumber who use their machine to unclog the pipe, which costs hundreds of dollars. This time I used this 50 foot 1/2" auger to clear the pipe. It worked perfectly. I coiled the auger cable in an 18 gal. plastic tub, disconnected the sinks trap, and fed the auger cable in for all 40 feet. The 1/2" width allowed me to push through the clogs without a problem. The sink is draining great now! What a success (not to mention saving a lot of money)! The auger cable is heavy, but that's what makes it works so well. I washed the cable, oiled it, and now store it in the same tub, making it even easier to use. I recommend getting a pair of heavy rubber gloves.

Our kitchen sink would not drain. Cleaned the trap, tried every household drain cleaner, still clogged. Got out my 25' auger along with concentrated sulfuric acid drain cleaner. A week later the drain was still clogged. I ordered this 50" drain auger from Amazon and was amazed at the quality- and weight- when it arrived. This is professional tool. It worked !! Here are some tips. If you can uncoil it and lay it out flat and in as straight a line as possible. I ran it out the door and into the yard. The hand crank that comes with the auger is kind of useless considering the size and strength of the auger. I ended up putting it on the auger as directed and then using a large set of vise grips on the hand crank to rotate it. Worked fine. The clog was found about 35' down the line and the large diameter of this tool made it much easier than the 25' to follow the curves of the pipe. One last suggestion. After washing the auger well, invest in a can of WD-40 and soak the auger with it before storing. This is a great tool for the money!

I've been dealing with root issues for the last few months. According to my records the issue probably started about 5 years ago. I have a pine tree that is near to the line so it is probably the culprit....though the issue might be a younger oak tree. Started with a 1/4" spiral...then 3/8"...then the 1/2 spiral. For a 4" sewer line use ONLY the 1/2"? I configured the end of it by bending the spiral at about a 30 degree angle so that it would pretty much have to scrape the inside of the pipe as it turned...I also bent it in such a way that the sharped point would scrape the sides of the pipe and hopefully catch any roots, etc. From previous adventures I knew that the issues were not more than 15 feet in...so I cut the spiral to that length. I also used a 5 foot piece of plastic pipe to help control the end near the operator. I use a 1/2" drill to turn it. My situation is that the only way to auger the drain is to pull the toilet...then go for it. The drain goes about 3 feet down...then right-angles out to a another line coming from a neighbor's out about another 7-6 feet. So 15 feet gets you maybe 4-5 feet into this branch line. All I can say is go easy.....do not turn the drill on full speed at first...cause if and when you hit roots the end will catch them and twist up the spiral. If it twists too much you need to carefully try to bend the kinks out of the spiral (when out of the drain) because if any are left in it....this is where it will tend to kink next time. Once you can get the spiral in OK....then you can go for full speed with the drill...though I'm not sure full speed helps much...just seems like it? The roots caught in the spiral were fine roots. At this point in time I THINK I have things cleared pretty well...though I've had the toilet out about 3xs this spring/summer...I'm getting to be an expert. I since the wax ring is new....I just pile the wax back up and re-seat the toilet. I intend to use copper sulphate and/or Roebic at least 1x per year....probably more like 2xs...likely in early spring and late summer. Plus some Ridx in between times...though probably a waste to use it unless a few weeks away from using the root killers. It takes several weeks for the root killers to do much. Drain I'm working with is clay as far as I know...first right angle from the toilet is cast iron though. Had to come to the conclusion that one way or the other the root issue is going to cost me...worst would be having the line dug up and replaced with plastic...next would be calling a plumber...my solution...be prepared to use the root killer maybe 2x per year. It is like pouring money down the drain but the other options are worse. Plus I really enjoy pulling a toilet now (NOT). This last winter I replaced the toilet with a new fangled 1.23 gallon per flush model after a toilet brush broke off in the old one on a 10F day in winter. Probably mistake with an old clay sewer line with root issues? So I have the new toilet configured to fill as high as possible and when I flush it I hold the lever down until the tank is emptied. I also flush it at least 4-5xs per day whether it needs it or not. It can be a real eye opener when going from a just flush it mentality to having stopped up drains...especially when things are so bad that you can shower or do laundry etc. Makes you long for the days when everything was just thrown into the street....but maybe not.... * the saga continues....having issues again this year and am approaching things in a different way. Intend to use copper sulphate and lye each month on the 1st and 15th from April thru Oct. These can only be flushed if the toilet still works...other wise it's a no go...and dangerous. * IF the toilet stops up...the only choice is to pull the toilet...you can stand there waiting for it to drain...but good luck with that. Found a new toy that works well...a rubber bladder that is connected to a garden hose...it then expands...blocks the pipe...and puts water pressure on the clog. There is one for 3" to 4" pipes which might go thru a 90 degree bend...and it is shaped in a way that allows it to get past the joints in a clay pipe. Once the water has drained...a dose of lye is in order. * Using the auger is my last choice...messy...and hard to get in very far. One option I'm considering is to use a length of flexible plastic pipe at maybe a 1" ID to cover and control the coil....and maybe avoid kinking. * Some advice...put NOTHING down the line that you can't get back out...you don't want to worsen your problems. ** Further note: Have managed to get by for around 2 years by flushing 1/2 cup food grade lye down the toilet every 2 weeks. Plus occasional copper sulphate treatments for the roots....probably best in June or there about. Recently this didn't work and needed to pull the toilet again...used the 4" to 6" bladder...then some copper sulphate...then 1 cup of lye. Will not use the 1/2" cable if it can be avoided...hard to use...not sanitary. ** Issue seems to happen most in the summer...so likely tree roots? Why do I do things myself? My guess is a charge of $300 or so to have someone pull the toilet and use an auger...if I can solve the issue myself...kudos to me. To dig up the line and replace it...$...I don't want to know. I can live with $2 / month for the lye treatment.

My kitchen drain was clogged. I was using a 50ft 1/4 inch in diameter. And after using it last year , after retracting it . It created an inverse loop withing the casing. So when I use it recently I try to straighten it but it end it up all deformed . Like a noodle. It was unusable . I seen this 1/2 inch snake for a decent price. I use it once a year o every other year so buying a 300+ auto snake not worth I my particular case. So I purchased this. I was doing OK I went 30 feet deep and now you can feel the difficulty of pushing thus heavy snake manually but I have no rush , this is a home project so I go slow and steady LOL , reach 40 feet or so I come to an elbow in my ducks , straggle a few minutes until I was able to route the snake down and continue I got to the blockage and here I am putting it in and out several times trying to move, brake, ir go true it but it was of no use I reached the end of my capabilities I have been at it around 2 hours. I started to retrieve the snake and it got stuck by the elbow.... struggle for 10 minutes and I was able to pass true. I got it all out and I seen that near the top it bend . I was Luke are you kidding me another one ! At the end I try another go but I wasn't able to reach as far as I did last time. It end it up in the garbage. I have miss feeling about it. It may work if your issue is 30 to 40 feet away mine was almost 50 no joke. My kitchen is far and the incline it's bad. The house it's old and doing the repair does not justify the expense so . . . I hope you have better luck

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Bought it because my 25 ft auger could not reach the plug that was somewhere in the basement from my 2nd floor kitchen. Nothing else I had tried, including compressed air and all manner of cleaning agents unplugged the pipe. This did the job. It reached the obstruction (fat and vegetable matter) about 45 feet into the drain and punched clear through it, saving hundreds of dollars in plumber fees. It is NOT easy to use as it is robustly made, strong and thick. I had to remove my sink to get this into the drain pipe. The supplied handle does NOT do the job and I had to use a combination of tools to twist it and feed it into the drain, especially around corners. I did find that it actually navigates all kinds of bends, even U pipes, quite well in a 1.5" line. It just needs patience and strength to push it through. Its a very different experience from using a rotary 25 ft auger. Be careful not to damage the coils when using any tools on this auger. Wrap the coil area in cloth or leather/vinyl before clamping. It is going to be messy, smelly and difficult depending on your clog, but if the clog is within 50 ft, this tool will get it done. After use wash in hot water, let dry and spray with WD40 to coat and preserve and store in a bucket. Also get proper fine mesh basket strainers for your sink to prevent clogging again.

No more thrust with such suppliers

Works. Made a carrier from a 5 gallon bucket and wood frame from a utube video. Easier to control with in a bucket

Unboxed, look at the Drain Auger, I said to myself, omg, I wasted $80, not sure if I can put it down 50F long, too flexible (disappointed). Put kitchen glove on then oil and insert it down, soon it's deep in size the sewer I used my strain, just like I throw the Arrow down the sewer, it fly down the sewer at least 2f, was surprise(wth, others have to push down slowly) so I keep doing that until the end then pull up, done in 10 minutes, can't imagine how fast and easy it is compare to the Home Depot's tool, what a pain, lift up/down and return.... I'm so happy with the purchase. Hope the manufacture put a second screw to secure on the handle (cost$0.10cents?), cos whatever happen if this fly off the handle, it will cost the home owner at least $1k.