2 Pack 12V 15Ah LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery, 2000+ Cycles Rechargeable Battery for Scooter, Lighting, Power Wheels, Fish Finder and More with Built-in 16A BMS

I extended my 12v car battery with this. Despite the comments not to do it, a battery balancer costs anywhere upward of $200. So I made my own for under $10. I may be wrong in some assumptions, and am still testing my setup, and will update in the future on more actual results. In the meantime, I theorize: My lead acid car battery charges at 14.4V (11A), and discharges at 12.65V (800CCA). This battery charges at 14.4V (4A), and discharges at 13.35V (8A, 20A burst). I connected this lithium battery in series to a 100W 3ohms resistor. Then I connected the lithium battery + resistor unit to the lead acid battery in parallel. After about 60 minutes of driving, the resistor was slightly warmed up, but still less than hand temperature, and the Li battery was cold to the touch, and both batteries balanced out. The resistor was added to lower the balancing currents between both batteries, and to protect the Li battery from over charge currents. From online: A lead acid battery has an internal resistance average of 20 mOhms. A lithium battery has an internal resistance average of 100 mOhms. Assuming this information is correct, and if my charging circuit provides 10A charging current (which is on the high side), the lithium battery without resistor should charge at approx 1.6A, while the lead acid should charge at 8.666A. So a resistor may not even be necessary for active (being charged) operation. More than likely the actual charge current is lower, as the charging circuit may only provide 5 to 6A of charge current,thus lowering the lithium charge current below the nominal. With added 3 ohms resistor, the 14.4 charge voltage drops to 13.75V, as a further protection against shorts, overcharges and over discharges. The main 2 reasons I have the resistor installed is: 1- High current draw protection (eg: when the battery wants to start the engine, and a voltage sag happens). 2- Battery balancing when charger circuit disconnects. Number 2 is the main reason, as the 14.4V charge voltage over the lead acid battery (13.75V on the Li battery side after resistor) disconnects, and the Lead acid battery drops to its nominal 12.50V, and the lithium to its 13.5V. That's a 1V differential between both, and with only 20mOhms on resistance, the current draw of the Lithium trying to charge the Lead acid would be about 50 amps (ignoring wiring resistances, probably closer to 25A in real life), well above the max the Li can handle. With the 3 Ohms resistor, the current draw from the Li to the Lead Acid should be closer to 0.333mA. A better suited 1Ohms resistor should allow for balancing currents of 1A. The resistor isn't the most efficient way to limit current, but considering that it was a very cheap solution, IMHO it was the best solution for an average Joe. The cons of this resistor setup, is that after shutting off the car, both batteries will self balance for a time, until the 13.50V voltage of the Li battery, matches the 12.50V of the Lead acid. Consider that the car also has parasitic losses, drawing energy from the lithium battery first; and all that balancing and parasitic losses all go through the resistor which basically converts roughly 1 to 3W in heat loss.... The second con, is that when the starter motor is engaged, drawing up to 200A (400A peak); and the Lead acid voltage drops to 10V, the Li battery will be taxed heavily. It can provide a max of 20A for a duration of 3 seconds. If we presume that the LeadAcid has an internal resistance of 10mOhms, and the Li+3Ohms resistor is 3100mOhms, then about 200A/3110*3100= 199.35A goes to the Lead Acid, and about 0.64A goes to the Lithium (provided both batteries leveled out to 12.50V). If the engine is started immediately after it was shut down (start-stop system at a red light), the Li still has 13.5V, making the amp rating ~0.83A The rest of the power gets drawn from the lead acid. For that reason, I believe a 1 or 0.5 ohm resistor may be more suited for regular cars allowing higher balancing, and higher starter discharge currents. In my case however, I own a hybrid car, and the starter only gets power from the 12V battery, if the high voltage battery is depleted. So it basically never draws power from the 12v. So the Li battery is merely there to extend the life of the 12V battery, and take care of the parasitic losses of the car (sensors, remote unlock, etc...). So far it also seems to work just fine. I'll update when something goes wrong or fails.

The AGM battery in the UPS I use for our entertainment system needed replacing again. I wanted to find if there was an LFP equivalent I could use for longer life and deeper draw ability, and I came across this and took a chance. It fits perfectly in the UPS and the terminals work fine with the connectors. Not only does it seem to be working well with the UPS, the UPS is also a little lighter. It wasn’t that heavy, but I still appreciate the reduction in mass.

So far so good. Same physical size as the lead acid they replace, but the lead acid have a screw terminal and lithium batteries have a bayonet style. These batteries are about 75% lighter than the old batteries and with three batteries it makes a big difference when you have to load the mobility scooter in the back of a car.

I replaced the singe 7ah battery that was in my daughter's jeep power wheel with both of these. She has used it for multiple days in a row without needing a charge. They are really good for the price. I haven't tried the really expensive ones, but these work great. They are compatible. Easy to install. Right size. And easy replacement.

First set the one battery wouldn’t recharge. Second set, everything is working great after a ton of recharges. Lasts a few days in my son’s powerwheels.

Ordered on the 9th, delivered on the 11th, installed and charged evening of 11th. On the 12th, 6 miles on the mobility scooter. The original batteries were lead-acid, 12 ah. They had been replaced with lead-acid, 15 ah. 5.5 miles max, and only lasted 4 months. (Manufacture said 9 miles with 12 ah) Now, after 6 miles, the battery level indicator has not started to go down. I don't know what the range is with these batteries yet. I know it's in excess of 6 miles. I'll have to update this when I find out. A little concerned about ithium battery fires, but I'm not going to replace batteries every 4 months.

Pertfect fit, easy to install, so much lighter, better capacity and lasts longer than original SLA battery. Picked up at a great price.

The battery terminals are ~0.3 in closer to the edge of the battery than the standard position. In some APS-brand UPS supplies, this shift is enough to prevent the battery from being installed. The listing photo shows a standard terminal position, but it doesn't match what was sent.