Polymaker PA12-CF Nylon Filament 1.75 Black, Low Moisture Sensitivity 500g Carbon Fiber Nylon Filament 1.75mm, Cardboard Spool - PolyMide PA12-CF Warp Free & Moisture Free Nylon 3D Printer Filament

Das Filament war bereits bei Lieferung sehr trocken. Nach etwa einer Stunde hat die beheizte Trockenbox 17 % Feuchtigkeit angezeigt.Gedruckt wurde ein kleines Bauteil mit 290 °C / 50 °C auf einem Bambu Lab P1S. Es gab einen kleinen Layershift in der Mitte des Bauteils. Dabei hatte sich aber nicht das gesamte Bauteil verzogen, nur die eine Schicht war minimal verschoben. Warping habe ich nicht festgestellt.Da ich ausschließlich technische Bauteile drucke, ist für mich der Preis absolut in Ordnung. Dieser relativiert sich sowieso, wenn man den Ausschuss bei PA ohne Kohle-/Glasfaser hochrechnet, nachdem man durch diesen Zusatz seltener Warping hat.Nachtrag: auch größere Teile sind problemlos möglich. (siehe Bild) Die Oberfläche hat ein schönes Finish.

Je viens de réceptionner ce fameux fil et je n'ai pu m'empêcher de le tester immédiatement. Avant de l'acheter, je me suis demandé si mon imprimante 3D de marque: Fokoos allait le supporter.Pour l'adhérence, j'ai utilisé le 3DMilk Adhésif vendu par Amazon qui est tout simplement magique.Pas besoin de support d'accroche dans mon cas.Le résultat d'impression est vraiment au rendez-vous. Aucune bavure, la pièce sort nickel et le nylon est hyper dur. La température utilisée est de 260C° et 60C° pour le plateau avec une vitesse de 40.Je ne suis pas très calé en impression 3D mais là j'ai été surpris de la qualité exceptionnelle de de fil.A noter, j'utilise une boite de séchage durant l'impression.

ottimo. mi sono trovato subito bene. resistenza impressionante

I read some of the reviews in here and was a bit taken aback, but they don't agree with the youtube reviews that are incredibly detailed and rave about this filament....so I gave it a try. The parts I used this for are intake sleeves on an RV8. That's a 220mph two seat airplane, with 3d printed sleeves right at the front. I wasn't at all sure 3d printed material could take it.The first material I attempted was NylonX. After a month long fight with 4 spools used, countless calls and emails with tech support they finally decided their material just could not produce a part this large without significant warp. This is a 20hour print with a .8mm nozzle putting a lot of material down and nylonx warped all over the place. The parts are 9 inches long, 6 wide and 2.5high...hollow in the middle. Perfect recipe for warp. We heated the bed to 115C, heated the enclosure to 60C, garolite, with and without magigoo PA, 30mm brim, raft...it just warped like crazy no matter what we did. Tech support finally gave up it's just too much nylon for too long according to them. I was frustrated to say the least considering how much I spent trying to make that crap work. There is a reason they only sell it on their website and not in here where it can be reviewed. It is strong...but don't print anything of size.So, I went looking for something other than Nylon and stumbled upon Priline carbon fiber polycarbonate with great reviews in here...and poof, two perfect parts easy peasy. One of my favorite youtube channels had a raving review of this CoPA filament and it's complete indifference to warp. It also has a better heat tolerance than the Priline and since I was ready for a redesign of the parts after test flights...I ordered a spool of CoPa to try...but after the NylonX fiasco, I was not hopeful...and had another roll of Priline sitting here waiting. The issue with the Priline is I am right at it's softening temperature....just too close for comfort, not that it ever gave any trouble at all. Just wanted something with a bit more margin. Not only did I print this NYLON without heating the enclosure at all, I had the bed at 45 degrees, used magigoo PA on garolite and NO BRIM. It printed perfectly. Twice. I am blown away. Today, those two parts flew for the first time with zero issues at all. Heat doesn't affect them in the least. Its difficult to believe this material and NylonX are both nylons considering what a massive pain NylonX is and what a breeze CoPA is. No tech support needed. No crazy prep, huge heat or anything odd. It prints like PLA...I take that back, my PLA is printed on a hotter bed than this stuff. It's incredible. Its not as stiff as NylonX....but I suspect Polymaker's Pa6-CF likely is...and it's cheaper. I don't really need that stiffness in my application, but I am tempted to order some PA6-CF just to try it....if it prints anything like CoPA....with carbon fiber....get outa here. :-)As for the reviews in here claiming this material is brittle, has no layer adhesion etc.....its just did 220MPH at the front edge of an airplane with a propeller spinning half an inch away. Brittle? No. Not even close. Now, it was brittle when I attempted to print it too cold. I have a hardened .8mm nozzle (nylonX requirement) so I typically need to be at the top of the temp range since hardened steel doesn't transfer heat as well as brass and I am pushing 4 times the filament that a .4mm nozzle moves. At 260C, my typical half bridge support test snapped easily and the skirt didn't stick together....that gave me pause. Printed again at 270...voila. Strong, great adhesion, minimal stringing, supports popped right off when printed with a z-distance of double the layer height.I also printed a part in Polymaker's PC-Max as that gets raves as well. It had some warp. Not nearly what NylonX had but some. Compared to CoPa...I don't see any reason to use the PC-Max other than cost...for this application I'll stick with the extra 60C Vicat softening temperature of CoPA....with ZERO WARP!! If the cost doesn't scare you off, and you need strong nylon parts that can take heat but also print without warp....you just found your filament. All metal hotend please....you have to heat this stuff up or print really slow. I have an E3D V6 on a CR-10 V2 and it couldn't have gone better.

まだまだ3Dプリンタは初心者ですが、Prusa Mk3S+で使用してます。カチカチの硬さでネジ穴にタップを立てて使用してますが。タップがすぐに切れなくなってくるくらいです。ヒートベッドに付きにくいので、のりを使用しています。プリンタ側のドライバーの温度設定にはPA+CFの項目が無いため、温度はPC(275℃)でスタート。ヒートベッドがチンチンになり、表面が泡立つような感じです。(エンクロージャーも使用)とにかく後加工も大変で、使いにくいので、強度の必要な場所に金属の代わりと考えて使用するようにしています。ノズルも真鍮ではなく(0.4mmのままですが)Toaiotという所の高温硬化鋼(?)という謎のノズルに変えました。もう少し柔らかいカーボン混入ナイロン材を探しています。