ConsoleTuner Titan One for PS4, Xbox One, PS3 and Xbox 360

The media could not be loaded. Product work's great. Doesn't feel flimsy or low quality. I did notice when plugging in the usb for the first time the male side was bent down but honestly think i may have leaned on it grabbing a cable. Either way I gently pushed it back a bit and it has been working just fine. Product was easy to navigate for an experienced pc user, programming is a different story. Luckily it comes with a Visual scripting tool but you still need to have logic and patience to understand what most of it does. I only plan on using for remapping and M&KB support. It takes ALOT of patience to fine tune the settings in Max aim DI and in game. Everyone states to set the max sense in-game to max but i prefer to keep it around the gamepad sense and maybe up it a bit and fine tune the Max aim settings. The most important part, this has NO lag whatsoever.... If you do it's either A.) Your TV. (Turn on game mode setting and any processing effects) B.) Your mouse (Mine is 500hz running in max aim at 1600DPI Sentey Nebulus) C.) You think you are feeling mouse lag but really it's the acceleration and are made for thumbsticks in the way you have to press so far to achieve the movement result. D.) USB port on pc (Try an external port?) Using mouse and keyboard on a console sure does take a bit to get used to, binding the buttons wrong could be the most turn off thing about this software. Maybe a default layout devs? I tend to forget which button is which when switching between profiles for different games, example would be... in Smite I use A and X for my 2 items. Thus i would need to bind A and B to F and G on the keyboard but if i switch to battlefield one A and B are bound to Space and R. So navigating menu's can become frustrating. Team communication in Smite is pretty much impossible until I can force my memory intro remembing AXBY are bound to FG Shift R. I ended up scripting something that would allow me to press 1 on the numpad for Attack left or numpad 3 for Attack Right but with a ton of comm's i would be limited. Only alternative would be to keep the gamepad in your lap but you're not gonna want to let go of that M&KB during a fight to use comms. Most games will use roughly the same layout WASD for movement QE for bumpers Left Click, Right click for the triggers so if i start a layout on a new game i export one of the profiles for a similar game and import and rename and adjust the settings from there. (No unnecessary rebinding over and over.) As you can see in the clip (Paladins), my aim sort of jumps around. That game has a pretty intense autoaim that takes a bit to get used to the auto lock on. I have adjusted my Max aim settings and it feel's more mouse like now. I have been gaming since Unreal tournament and Quake in '99 and won a lan contest in these games. So I a definitely as a skilled M&KB user. For the people that complain this has an unfair advantage. Well, sure it can if you can turn off acceleration in games and so far i have found a total one 1. and even then there is still a tiny bit. So much more too say but thanks for reading this wall of text :) If you didn't make it this far then you may not have the patience for this device.

So... Let me tell you about my 2 month journey with this product.To be fair, the Titan One did exactly what I expected it to do. Allow me to perform button combinations at the press of a single button, or macros, on a console platform. More specifically the Xbox One. It didn't stop there. I did take the controller on to the PC and used my program profile from the Titan One there and it worked with zero issues. If you are on the fence about if you should get one I'd say go ahead and buy it...... Just not from this vendor. Or even better get the Titan 2.So initially this product, a USB stick, worked fine! I opened the case and immediately felt how cheap the casing was. It comes with the territory with these kind of products so it didn't bother me too much at first. Then the first issue happened.I pulled out the USB and the contacts "shoe", the silver part of most USBs that is on the very far left of the picture, was left in the Xbox exposing the actual contacts, the little prong thingies on that object in the right and the broken little piece you see in the picture. And no... I didn't just shove the USB into the Xbox in fact if you decide to purchase the Titan One you'll see that it actually is quite loose in the port because of its design. A bad flaw to be sure.Me, being a little bit of a tech guy, was upset but still knew there wasn't really an issue. I put the "shoe" back on the contacts and positioned my Xbox so my table would support the USB stick. Was OK for a few weeks.Then it was pulled out again by my son. This one is on me in a sense but, mind you, a USB is secured into a machine by the "shoe" so essentially my USB stick just sat there next to the machine with the contacts in the machine and USB touching.This time I inspected the contacts and noticed that 1) There was no grounding solder that keeps the shoe on to begin with and 2) the far left contact was loose... At this point I knew it was only q matter of time before it broke.You have to have your controller wired through the USB unless you use a workaround which, at this point, I wasn't even going to consider. And seeing as its not secure at all in the machine because of the "shoe" it didn't matter what you did it would eventually fall out the machine. Every time the cord would sway would mean it would fall out. Needless to say I played the "fix it" game until, eventually, the contact broke. That's when I reached out to the seller.I reached out to the seller before the holidays hoping to hear from them. No response. I waited about a week or so after the holidays. No response. At this point I felt there was a need for a review. I wasn't asking for a refund primarily I would much rather take an exchange or replacement.TLDR: The casing quality leaves a lot to be desired. If you are not extremely careful it WILL break on you. You could circumvent this by using tape, a couple of rubber bands, something to secure the housing. If it does break you can count on THIS vendor NOT responding to your concerns.Although, to be perfectly honest, if you're considering the Titan One I REALLY recommend the Titan Two. It's about 40 bucks more and it eliminates EVERY ISSUE I mentioned. An overall better product. I'm going to fix this one and sell it on eBay to recoup the loss... Of course it'll be more stable than it originally was.