Jasper 400+ XL Universal Base Plate AND Precison Circle Cutting Guide for Cordless & Compact Routers | Two Tools IN One | 7 1⁄2" Diameter | Mounting and Centering Hardware Included

I was a bit worried about this breaking after a few reviews I read. So far I only made four holes with it. They were 6-1/4 and 7-1/2” in 1-1/2” thick pine so not hard wood but pretty thick. I did multiple passes at 1/4” or more each.The setup was fairly easy, but took a little time because I was being careful. The centering pin will not come back out of the guide, but I guess I don’t need it to. All of the tolerances are extremely tight.I used it with a Whiteside 1/4” upturn bit that cut very clean. I did vacuum the chips out on each pass. When it got deep they were pretty packed in and I had to use a screwdriver to loosen them up. I assume this takes some stress out of the following cut.This thing is awesome and very accurate. Just take your time, read and follow the instructions and don’t try to muscle anything.I made sure to stick the whole piece down with double sided tape so nothing moved after the through-cut.

I have to give Jasper tools 5 stars on this, if for nothing else, superb customer support. First, I took a chance and ordered it for my two routers - neither of which were on the list of known routers it would fit. (Ridgid R2401 trim router, and Ryobi R161). That's OK - it gives me an excuse to buy the router set I really want. I'll still have to clear that expense with the wife-unit, but she'll give in!I did borrow a Dewalt DWP611 from a neighbor, and it fit fine using the supplied baseplate screws. Problem was however, the very first time I used it, as I removed the alignment/centering disk (packaged that way, and attached to the baseplate via 2 approx 1/8" dowels) - it broke the edge off the centering disk such that you could now only attach it with one dowel, which wouldn't give you accurate centering or alignment for critical precision tasks. This was not critical to my project and I used the circle jig without it and it worked great.Meantime, I contacted Jasper, explained to them what happened, and they very promptly shipped my a new centering disk, which so far works fine. I would advise anyone using this to be careful removing the centering disk from the baseplate, and not push it out gingerly as I did the first time. I just didn't see that one coming.I've used this item now several times (still with neighbor's router), and it works great.Follow the directions, even go to Jasper's website, and you will see how to effectively use this item.

I use this jig for speaker building and it has worked fairly well, although it has a few minor faults:1. The 1/4" hole in the calibration disc is too large, leading to about 1mm of slop when mounting the jig. Also, most of the 1/8" holes in my jig were slightly oval, allowing a small amount of pivot pin movement. If you want accurate cuts, the disc should be mounted while checking your measurement across the bit and pivot pin with calipers (be sure to subtract half of the pin width - 0.0625").2. In order to flush mount a standard diameter (104mm) tweeter, a 9/32" router bit (not easy to find) can be used with the jig pin set in the 4-1/16" hole. If the disc has been mounted accurately, this will give you a very close cut to within a few thousandths of an inch.Considering this jig was originally designed for speaker hobbyists, and most speaker builders will be using the model 400 jig to flush-mount standard dia. (104mm) tweeters, I was surprised and disappointed that it doesn't have a pin setting that's close to 104mm. With a standard 1/4" bit, the best you can do is an ugly 1mm gap around a 104mm tweeter. I think I speak for a lot of speaker hobbyists when I say: I hope Jasper will consider revising their jigs to include a 104mm pin setting so we don't have to fiddle with more measurements and hunt for odd sized router bits.

i cut nearly perfect circles with it. here are the problems i've encountered1. you need to cut a 4" circle. ok so this thing goes by radius, so i'll put it in the 2" hole. well no, the markings on the disk are for the diameter. so if you need a 4" circle, put the anchor peg in the 4" hole.2. its a 1/8 metal pin that's used to anchor the router to the work surface. its somewhat of a tight fit into the plastic disc. in order for this to work you need a somewhat loose hole in the wood. a 7/64th bit worked nice.3. towards the end of the circle, the router comes loose and i've ended up with some bumps at the end. this is because the anchor point, in the middle of the circle is no longer attached to the body you just cut out. with better bits and doing some cleanup at the end, you might be able to take care of it.4. i frequently used the 3" anchor hole. by the time i had used it 6 times, it had gotten a little loose. i had to be careful that i didnt push it back through the plastic, leaving me unguided when i set the router on the work surface.5. it took me about 30 mins to find out how to attach it to the router. that was more the router's fault because i wasnt sure which screw holes i needed to line up.i would recomend this if you need to cut circles for an amateur project. once i got 4 or 5 practice cuts out of the way i was able to use it correctly the way i wanted to.

Didn’t fit my newer model Makita router. Custom drilled holes to make it work, only to realize it was for smaller sizes than I thought I purchased. Talk about frustrating. I bought this for a speaker build, so partial blame on the person that referred it. Couldn’t return it, threw it in the garbage pretty hard.