FreudP410T: 10" Thin Kerf Next Generation Premier Fusion General Purpose Blade

It is a nice multi purpose blade for a table saw. I believe it is a cut above most of big box brands. It is not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either. I expect to get a year out of this blade, cutting mostly plywood and MDF… not for ripping a2x , but alright for dry 1x

Does what it claims. I have only had it for a short time but everything I have cut has come out flawlessly. From plywood, melamine, to hard woods. No burn marks, no chips or tareouts. Plus it is flat across the whole blade surface to within .001 of an inch. Which i chalked up to the coating. You are looking for a one blade solution that's does it all, this is it. Highly recommend.

I have a 1.75hp Laguna Fusion 2 cabinet saw and have been using full-kerf blades to cross-cut and rip. I tried a Freud Industrial full-kerf combination blade, but the results were not as good as with the glue-line rip and plywood/melamine. This blade is, indeed, excellent for cross-cuts, ripping, plywood, thin stock, and melamine. I haven't had it long enough to rate longevity. But I am very pleased; I make a lot of small items, have just one table saw, and it's a relief not to have to switch blades multiple times in the span of an hour or four.

This is not a dedicated crosscut blade, but new, it gives incredible crosscuts. Better than it should be able to. I tried Cherry, Oak, and Pine, pretty easy to crosscut, and it did fine. I then tried various plywood products, some with very delicate veneers. All cuts unsupported as the blade exited to see what it could do. No scoring, pre-cutting a kerf, taping, or any other method to minimize tear-out. The lack of tear-out was amazing. Much better than my previous 50 tooth combo blade. I think the high ATB is the difference. (And due to the high ATB, you better be careful handling this blade, especially when new. It bites.As far a ripping goes, it is good enough to not get past my laziness on most rips. I have a 24 toot ripping blade, but almost never need to use it for sub 1.5inch thick rips.This may be obvious, but this is not a contender for hogging out dados, etc. The bottom of the cut will be extremely uneven due to the Hi-ATB.My first blade arrive with a broken tooth. It has obviously been dropped before shipping. Freud could use better packaging with more crush zones. Of course, that might cost more than just replacing damaged blades. Whatever, I did not ding anyone, since Amazon replaced the blade immediately. Point being, inspect the packaging and the teeth when you get receive the blade. Carbide is very brittle and does not handle drops well. I would replace any blade that had been dropped, even if not showing a broken tooth. Picking carbide out of my face is not something I want to do.

I was a little wary when buying this at first. I do fine woodworking that requires perfect cuts on all my edges. This does it without the need to sand them before gluing. HOWEVER, it does depend on the type of wood, and of course your table saw itself. My last gripe is that the red comes off. This sucks. It's not terrible, and doesn't always come off, but on denser woods that have a lot more friction to offer, you may get a few streaks of red. I use a Dewalt - DWE7480 Table Saw. I do not have a stabilizer on my blade, yet. However, this hardly wobbles at all. Only reason I am getting one is because of the accuracy I need on my cuts (.05 of a degree off and it's not good for me). If you are trying to decide between this and a forrest II, get the forrest II. I have used both, and the forrest II is better at getting through your wood, with smoother cuts. You will need a stabilizer on the forrest II. If you are just looking for a decent blade to do projects around the house with, the Freud is perfectly OK, even OK for most fine woodworking.I will give a list of how it cuts certain types of woods (I use a lot of different types), and on a scale of 1-5 how well it did.1 = Poor, tearout is in large chunks and unavoidable, 2 = still pretty bad, though tearout is smaller chunks, 3 = decent, with minimal tearout, 4 = amazing, with hardly any tearout, and close to glue ready cuts (if not glue ready) 5 = virtually no tearout, and baby smooth cuts.Pine: Cross Cut: 3, pine being a soft wood that does chip a lot, this is not unexpected. Still better than any diablo blade. Rip Cut: 4, comes out perfect almost every time.Oak: Cross Cut: 3.5 better than pine, with very, very minimal tearout that is hardly noticeable Rip Cut: 3.5, I haven't done a lot of oak on this yet, and it may have been due to the oak I had being a little drier than normal. All in all, still a really good cutWalnut: Cross Cut: 4, While it could get better, a 4 for an all purpose blade is more than impressive. Rip Cut: 4.5, Walnut is pretty easy to work with anyways, but it comes out perfect on this guyRedwood: Cross Cut: 4, if you have ever worked with redwood, you know that it's one of the easiest woods to work with anyways. Rip Cut: 5 No tearout. zero, zero, zero.Padauk: Cross Cut: 4, padauk is like working with hard chalk, so you never really get tearout on either end, but you will see some on your crosscuts from time to time, albeit rare. Rip Cut: 4.5, almost perfect every single time.Mahogany: Cross Cut:4 Rip Cut: 4Manzanita Wood: (rather dense, i believe about a 2400 on Janka?): Cross Cut: 3.5, not perfect smooth, but no tearout. Manzanita isn't prone to tearout anyways. Keep in mind, this is for a 3" thick piece, a thinner piece would have come out much smoother. I wouldn't go above 1.5" for woods this dense, or denser. Rip Cut: 4, no tearout, but this being on the higher end of dense, hard wood, it does take it's sweet time. I was cutting through a 3" thick piece though, and it got through it with no qualms, just 1 red mark from the blade itself.Bloodwood: 2900 Janka (densest wood I have cut with this blade yet), done on .25" Cross Cut: 4, hardly any tearout, with a somewhat smooth end cut. Glue ready for sure. Rip Cut: 4 also glue ready, and also smooth. Got through .25" just fine.Hope this helps with the ever ongoing pursuit of the perfect blade. :D

Pro Cabinet shop use. - Blade is a good performance /price value compromise. Used to use Forrest 40T blades, which are superior in cut quality and longevity, but cost nearly as much to sharpen at Forrest to regain performance as buying new, and our sawstop has eaten all our Forrest blades. Even at $100, these Freuds are good throwaways.

Everything unexpected from a Freud blade. Cuts 3/4 plywood with ease and has a very smooth finish. No need to get a higher tooth count

I wanted a full kerf blade as I have a 3 HP cabinet saw. Based on reviews, I bought this blade and I am not diasappointed. It cuts very smoothly with minimal tear out on the back side (plywood). Highly recommend. A bit expensive but worth every dollar.

Me encantó. Se ve y se siente la calidad. Corta como mantequilla los materiales. Sin duda lo volvería a comprar una y otra vez.

Great blade for ripping hardwoods. I bought this as an upgrade for the stock blade on a Bosch 4100 and have been very impressed with the quality of cuts. Mainly used it for ripping hardwood flooring and ripping plywood and MDF both of which it does perfectly. Cuts like butter and the surface is practically perfect, barely needs to be sanded if at all. It’s not the cheapest blade out there but if it has a decent lifespan it is well worth the extra money!

Comparable to a Woodworker II or any other high end cabinet saw blade. Thicker rips on my 1.75hp contractor saw bog down a little with the 40t, but for anything short of 50mm/2" rips in hardwood, this blade leaves a fantastic glassy finish.

Delivered as promised and early.Brand new and in a sealed package.No surprises.Product performs great.What more do you want.