Silk Dark Cyan PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm 1KG 2.2LBS 3D Printing Material Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal Gold Silver Copper Bronze PLA Filament CC3D Silk PLA Deep Cyan

I had been wanting to try one of these mega-gold filaments for a while, so I decided to google around looking for "the best". Everyone has their own idea of what that means of course, but I had to start *somewhere*, and this stuff did come with some decent recommendations, so I figured "what the hell, it's worth a shot", and bought a spool.I've never printed with "silky" filament before, let alone this brand, so it's new territory for me. This stuff is inexpensive ($19.99/kg at the moment), made in China, and people were talking it up, and everyone knows how THAT usually goes -- "if sounds too good to be true, it probably is". I figured if it doesn't stack-up, it won't be a huge loss.At first, I had jamming problems, intermittent starved lines, brittleness, bad overhangs, ooze... the works. So, I didn't get a very good first impression of it. I figured, well, if I can't get this to print nicely, maybe I can just get it going barely well enough to use it for things where it's okay for the part to look ugly or where the color won't matter.But... I didn't want to settle for that, and kept poking at my settings until I finally got it figured out. Over the course of about 20 meters' worth of filament printing calibration objects, I got it dialed-in decently, and all those issues just... went away. Afterward, I printed a couple of small non-calibration items, then put the spool away for the time being. I still have some fine-tuning to do before printing anything big or important, but that's to be expected when playing around with a new filament, and it was already past time to shut things down for the night.So, yeah... that first impression was wrong. I mean, dead, fracking wrong! This really is a good product. As I wrote in the headline, the photos I saw didn't lie, and I'm certain mine don't either. It really does look as nice as the claims.One of the defining properties of this stuff: between the overall glossy/shiny/silky appearance and the way light interacts with the texture of the printed surface, it's hard to see the layer lines on flat vertical or curvy/"organic" surfaces (like the side of a cube, or the hull of a Benchy), making prints look a lot smoother than normal. At least, at 0.2mm layer height, anyways. Of course, mechanically, the layer lines are no different from any other plastic. This effect doesn't hide the "terraced terrain" look of gently-sloping top/bottom surfaces (like the Benchy's gunwale or cabin roof), but as with any other filament, you can mitigate that to some degree by using a finer layer height where it's needed, or maybe with that non-planar slicing method that's making the rounds.This leads to another nice quality: it's slick to the touch, even coming from my old printer (which doesn't produce the smoothest of surfaces to begin with). In fact, it almost feels "oily", compared to my other filaments. Of course, it's probably just as dry as any other plastic. It's simply *that* smooth right out of the hotend. I now wonder what vapor smoothing would do to it (and what solvent one would need for this product, for that matter).One thing that surprised me is that this stuff wants (in fact, demands) a lot less retract than any of the other filaments I use. As in, they all need around 2 mm of retraction length, while this gold does great with just 0.5 mm). I'm certain that too much retract was what led to jamming, starved lines, and ooze (paradoxically).Now, on the questionable side, this filament does have a LOT of die swell. For those who don't know, this is the effect where extruding into free air too fast (for a given temperature) will cause the extruded plastic to distort, shrinking lengthwise while also getting fatter, not unlike a muscle contracting. Or, as someone else described it, "like a hanging worm reacting to being touched".This isn't too much of a problem during normal printing, though, and can be beneficial in one case: if you anchor a line of hot plastic to something, stretch it across open air, and anchor the far end to something else, then let it cool, the filament's tendency to shrink lengthwise will cause it to pull itself taut between those anchor points (at least, with reasonably thin lines).Of course, we all know that this is how bridging works in 3d printing, and this behavior leads to *great* bridges with very little droop, but it has the negative side effect of making partial overhangs less than ideal, as they'll want to curl up if printed too fast. This is particularly apparent on parts with a small horizontal cross-section, which lead to short layer times, such as the 30-85° overhang test pictured above. The behavior of bridges and overhangs is comparable to ABS, but less severe, and like that material, these issues can be dealt with with appropriate settings or using things like a dwell tower or just adding more parts to the plate, so that there's more to print at heights where the problematic overhangs show up.And...well... it doesn't smell sweet when printing, like PLA normally does. Gotta have that delicious smell of waffles. :-)Also bear in mind, this is a standard-size 1kg spool -- the photo attached to this Amazon listing makes it look bigger than reality.## End of review ##The following settings were used to print most of the items seen in the photos attached to this review (ignore the object on the far left, it's a bad print and is NOT representative):* Hotend: 195°C (precisely calibrated)* Bed: 65°C* Diameter: 1.73 mm* Flow: 94%* Geometry: 0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm line width* Speeds: I use Slic3r's autospeed mode, with a 5 mm³/s volumetric flow rate target, which works out to around 70 mm/s on most print moves. Travels at 300 mm/s, and retract and unretract speeds are both set to 40 mm/s. 1000-1500 mm/s² acceleration. X/Y jerk is set to 20.* Cooling: fan at 85% on print moves, 100% on bridges ( I usually run it flat-out 100% at all times on other PLA's, and PETG typically gets 15 to 25% on print moves and 50 to 100% on bridges, depending on color).The printer is just an old acrylic Prusa i3 MK1 clone that I've modded, upgraded, and just generally tinkered with over the years. It is equipped with a genuine RPW-Ultra all-metal hotend, with 12v/40W heater and 0.4 mm nozzle, a direct-feed, geared extruder of my own design, and Printbite-covered glass for the print surface. Layer cooling is provided by a 5015 blower, through a duct that aims the airflow at both the left and right sides of the nozzle. The whole kit is controlled by a BigTreeTech SKR v1.3 loaded-up with TMC2208 driver modules, and running Marlin (bugfix-2.0.x branch).

I was a little worried about the quality of this, but it's turned out pretty well so far. I've used it to print accent pieces to go with other 3D prints, so I don't have enough experience with it to give it a 5 star review yet.

This stuff definitely holds up and works well in my 3D printer! No issues at all with it, if you're looking for a filament that's truly does have a silky shine this is definitely your go-to.

I have bought a lot of silk PLA by now, and the one thing I don't like about a lot of others is how they don't "pop" as advertised. This one is not like that, as it is quite reflective on the prints I have used it for.

Prints well with standard PLA settings. If needed, increase temp to 210 or so.

Pictured is Silk Dark Cyan and Silk Gold PLA. Also pictured is CC3D Silk Silver PLA (right) vs ZIRO Silk Silver PLA (left). CC3D has a darker grey in it. For gold CC3D right, Ziro left. For gold Ziro is a bit darker with more orange? I guess. It's hard to photo colors since the lighting makes such a huge difference but I tried. I kind of like CC3D's gold more but all personal preference.So - if you want the color, you can get it to print - but it's not easy. It took a lot of trial and error. Hopefully my settings will help you get good prints without as much effort. The end result is beautiful - so if you want the shiny gold or whatever - in the end I'd say its worth it.First of all, your .4 nozzle, change it to a .6 size nozzle. A .4 will clog and clog and clog. I did have 1 clog with .6 but I printed almost a whole rolls worth of filament like a champ.Ender 3 Printer using Creality Slicer - Generic PLA .6mmNozzle size .6Nozzle Temp: 205Bed Temp: 55Print Speed: 50Fan Speed 80 (I lowered it for noise, I had a clog when I turned it even lower)Retraction Distance 4.5Retraction Speed 25

Easy to print with

Love how the colors look in the final product.

El rollo de filamento nos llega en una bolsa con cierre de presión semi embalsada al vacío, cosa que no me ha gustado nada ya que esta ha de venir al vacío por completo ya que la humedad es el mayor enemigo de PLA.Tras abrirla se ve que el bobinado es correcto, muy lineal para evitar estrangulamientos, pero al igual que otros que ya he probado de otras marcas, este tipo de filamntoo no saca las bonitas figuras que muestran en la fotos, como veis en una de la que he puesto, una copa con serpientes alrededor, de una altura de 17cm solo se ha imprimido en color dorado, llegando a notar el color bronce en la parte final de la copa, en lo alto del todo y que pasa totalmente desapercibido si no sabes que lo has hecho con un filamento de estos. En la otra que se ve como esta imprimiendo la base de la misma copa, ya se aprecia un poco el dorado y mal el cobrizo, a ver si ahora da lugar a que se imprima con mas colores., si es así pondré' la foto, si no, se queda tal cual.En cuanto a características de impresión la copa está laminada con SuperSlicer con una altura de capa de 0.2mm y a una velocidad de 50% que equivale al 150mm/s la cual va variando según los perímetros, los rellenos, etc... La temperatura escogida es de 210ºC en el hotend y de 60 ºC en cama PEI todo esto en una Ender 3 S1 con Klipper instalado y funcionando con la Sonic Pad de Creality, la cual podeis encontrar aquí en Amazon: https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B0BFGQKL6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1Con ella no solo podréis aumentar la velocidad, también mejorarles las impresiones una barbaridad, os la ocons¡jo 💯💯.El filamento es si es de los de tipo seda, por lo que sus exteriores queda suaves suaves, pero hay que tener mucho cuidado con las costuras porque es el filamento donde peor se pueden esconder ya que estas se notan si o sin, procurad siempre buscar las esquinas.De momento la reseña se queda con 3 Estrellas, pero no porque sea mal filamento, no, es muy bueno, pero los colores mo cambian tan rápido como desearía que lo hicieran, has de hacer una pieza de mas de 25cm de altura y 25cm de arco para que se luzcan todos los colores, de ahí que sea el porqué le bajo la nota.EDITO. Al final le he puesto una estrella mas porque me ha imprimido la otra copa bien al igual que un segundo dragón también aprovechando los colores pero porque anterior mente imprime un jarrón que también podeis ver en las fotos en las que el color dorado ocupa 1/3 dl rato de colores ¡más las patas del drgon que fue el siguiente, pero no le pongo las 5 estrellas, porque la proporción de filamento es de color dorado es muchísimo mayor que el resto, podría decir que la mitad del rollo y por eso no le pongo esas 5.Espero que esta reseña te haya sido útil 👍.

見る角度、光のかげんによってはけっこう反射してメタルっぽく見えます。0.2mmのノズルではうまく印刷できませんでしたが、0.4mmノズルで温度は235度、速度は30mmに設定してようやく印刷できました。もう少し設定を変えていけばさらにキレイに印刷できると思います。積層痕はのこりますのでペーパーをかけると光沢が変わるのでまだ練習が必要です。

Come detto anche da altri, bisogna aumentare la temperatura dell'hot end, dai soliti 200 a 210 °C o più e anche la temperatura del letto a 65 °C per facilitare l'adesione. Il primo layer deve essere anch'esso più lento del normale. Queste precauzioni noiose cono compensate dalla bellezza del colore, brillante ed intenso. Peccato che se ne vada via parte del mio tempo ma ne vale la pena.

一番求めている金(金メダルの色)に近いのでリピートし続けている。ノズル温度は210度より200度の方がより光沢が出てくる。印刷速度は40％。一時期価格が1.5倍になっていたが、最近の2023年になり戻ってきたので嬉しい。無くなったらまたリピートする。

Great product at a great price, just ordered 4th roll and also ordered 2 rolls of silk gold version to try. If you use Bambu printer keep temperature at 225 minimum or lower the printing speed for the best print quality and outer wall printing speed 50-70 if you want more shiny look.