Alden 8440P Pro Grabit Broken Bolt and Damaged Screw Extractor 4 Piece Kit - Made in The USA

After reading so many bad reviews, I almost didn't buy the ProGrabit. But, I gave it a chance, and bought and used the product to remove some 2.5" screws from an old pool table railing. Out of the 5 I used on, I succeeded on 4. The one I didn't was not due to a bad product, but me not knowing the screw was in at an angle, thus I drilled at the wrong angle and brock off half the screw head when extracting. Since I haven't seen or used a product that works any better, I see no reason not to give it 5 stars. One must follow the directions exactly, and use the extraction part at as low of a speed as possible on a variable speed drill while applying a lot of pressure. See my video of the actual screws removed, and with one still attached to the extraction head. It grabbed the screws so well, that on some, I had to use a pliers to remove the screw from the grabit after extraction. I'd say that those that complained about it either used too small of a grabit in ration to their screw, (the video shows the largest grabit holding the 2.5" screw, although I found using the second to largest to work even better), or they didn't apply enough pressure, or they ran the drill too fast during extraction, or they drilled the hole either too deep or not deep enough. The directions spell this all out very specifically, but as with any product you buy, you must READ THEM... So, as one who has hassled with many of stripped out screw heads in the past, I highly recomend this product, and would give it as a gift, and will probably buy a second or third set to have around in case I do ever break one.

This kit works astonishingly well. My first chance to use it was on my daughter's Kia. I was putting in a new ignition coil when the small hardened bolt snapped off, leaving just a small, uneven stub sticking out about 1/4 inch from the valve cover housing where it goes. I was dreading having to replace the whole housing when I remember I had this tool. In less than 5 minutes, the broken stub was out -- cleanly and smoothly with absolutely no damage to the housing. I've tried other products with little or no success. In several cases, I've ruined whatever it was that had the broken bolt stuck in it. Not this time, this time I was home free in a minute or two. Tips: #1. The instructions don't include pictures, and it took me a few minutes to realize that with each bit one tip is for drilling a small recess into the top of the damage bolt and the other is for torquing into that hole once it has been made. #2. GO SLOW, and with LIGHT pressure. The biggest mistake you can make (other than using the drill in forward rather than reverse) is to fail to align the drill portion with the center of the broken bolt. The bolt surface will be uneven so don't press into it. Position the drill right above it and start it spinning, then gently bring the tip of the bit into contact and let it make its own hole right in the center. Once you've got it started, you can add a little pressure but take your time. Make the hole good and deep. Then when you flip the bit and use the extractor side, it will astonish you with how well it bites right in and out comes your bolt. #3. Reverse, reverse, reverse. Both the drilling part and the removing part must be done with the drill in reverse.

I used the bit #2. It worked well on the first frozen screw, but on the second one the head of bit #2 broke off and the broken off piece is now stuck on top of the screw. Help!

These things are a lifesaver!

I made the mistake of thinking that even if this did not work, it would not make the problem worse. Wrong. I needed to remove several 3/4" screws which were frozen in a cooktop. The philips slots were worn, but otherwise the heads and screws appeared undamaged. To make things as easy as possible for the screw remover I sprayed the screws with PB Blaster and let that work for 2 days. The burnishing end made appropriately sized holes. However, the remover end simply would not grab the edges of the hole the burnishing end made. And, yes, my drill was in reverse, at low speed. I applied pressure and angled the remover per the instructions, no luck. Until I got to the third screw. On it the removing end threaded into the screw head as it was supposed to do. The screw started to back out. One revolution. Looking good. Second revolution. Making progress. But then, words that may not be reprinted in this review. The tip of the removing end broke off, firmly embedded in the screw head, just as is reported by so many other reviewers who have given it 1 star. Because the remover is "Tempered twice for extra hardness" it is brittle and prone to breaking, and when it breaks it is a bear to grind out. If you choose to ignore this warning and buy this product, be sure you have your dremel at hand with a good supply of grinding stones. I believe this is the first 1 star review I have given, but 1 star is generous. I figure that 1 star is appropriate for a product of no value, but since this made my problem worse when it broke off, I would like to give it a negative rating. I know that many people have had success using this product. I congratulate them on their luck. But too many people report the same problem of the removing tip breaking off. Since it broke for me while the screw was turning I must conclude that I was not overstressing it, and there must have been a defect in the metal or manufacturing process. Once I cleaned up the mess left by the broken tip, and removed the head of the screw, I was able to grab the screw shaft with a vise grip, and the screw came out easily. Do yourself a favor and do not take a chance with this product.

I needed to extract an Allen head bolt whose head was stripped - the 3mm opening had gotten rounded out. I used the drill part first then used the extractor side of the bit running the drill counterclockwise and very slowly and the screw backed out! I have to admit, I was skeptical but it worked.

These things are awesome. I use the smallest one the most and did break it but was worth buying another set.

Very expensive but seem to be very high quality. Other types all failed.

But I know for sure that if I don't have a set in the toolbox, I am doomed to drills, Vice Grips, and skinned knuckles. All the internet reviews convinced me. And I think the quality of the steel, and its tempering, is crucial. I saw a knock-off version in a Post Office recently, and I can report I wasn't slightly tempted.

I had stripped the screw heads on the screws holding brake rotors in place. I had tried removing them with a similar tool however, that extractor broke. These extractors are much stronger and I was able to remove the screws. I recommend that you start with a smaller extractor first and then use the one that is sized for the damaged head.

Sirve sin problemas para lo que esta hecho

I was faced with a bill of £231.49 plus vat for a new part ,plus fitting charge of minimum two hours labour and hydraulic fluid and other charges for consumables to replace clutch master cylinder with a damaged/broken screw on my Kawasaki 1500 d2 motorcycle,the total bill would have been in excess of £500.00.i decided to try the prograbit set after viewing it on youtube. I am no expert in using tools but I do have a de-walt cordless drill/driver,i followed the instructions exactly as given hey presto 100% success.new screws were obtained from cradley Kawasaki ------- job done----happy biker. five minute job