BleepinJeepAlignment Tool - Mild Steel

I rarely do reviews but this one deserves it. My front tires were feathering so I bought the toe alignment bars for my ZJ with dana 30 axle. I had my alignment done in 3 minutes in my driveway, and avoided the headache and unreliability of a shop. The measurememnt precision is absolute. One could easily adjust toe to any setting with fractions of degree accuracy. The tool was obviously engineered specifically for jeeps, the bar length was just the right length to clear the control arms but not too long where it interfered with body or other parts. PS I put the floor jack on the middle of the axle to jack up the front, and the tool fits perfectly.If you offroad or work on jeeps this is a must have tool. My jeep gets a lot of abuse so I replace the front end and ball joints every few years to stop death wobble. While the tool is a tad expensive, it was $50 less than a shop alignment and so quick and easy. My only regret was not finding this sooner.

I really wanted the stainless ones but they weren't available anywhere. I thought the price was a bit steep for mild steel. Other than that, I found these easy to use by myself and I got my alignment done faster than it would've taken to drive my Jeep to the alignment shop. All these years I've been paying for alignments on my Jeep JK Wrangler not realizing that you can only adjust the toe. So happy I discovered these on youtube. These will save me money for years to come.

I was skeptical, but I didn't want to take my 1999 jeep cherokee for an alignment every time I hit a pothole or curb. I would have liked stainless steel, but I just keep a light coating of WD-40 on them. They are sturdy but not too heavy. I had to use spacers with my lug nights to get them tight against the brake rotor. I followed the instructions and adjusted to within 1 mm. The jeep rides great now, so I'm a believer. Just make sure you check measurements again after you tighten the tie rod lock nuts.

Before attempting alignment, look for signs of worn steering components (ball joints/tie rod ends/drag link, and bearings). With the axle lifted and wheel still attached, attempt to wiggle it inward and outward to check for worn/loose bearings/races (mine were due to the last idiot not ensuring the lock washers were secured against the outer spindle nut which allowed them to loosen/back out over time ultimatly destroying them). I recommend Timken bearing/race set. Drag links and tie rod ends are relatively simple and inexpensive to replace, so do it now if suspect. I used USA Moog, and recommend staying away from imports, but think Dana/Spicer was original. Ball joints typically require specialty tools to remove/re-install them in their hanger brackets. The brackets on the other hand are easy to remove. Worn bearings are greasy/messy business, I did it and used Timken. I purchased a seal removal tool for the inward bearing. I borrowed Ball joint removal tool (they came out easy, not so much going back in) and a race driver assortment for the job. I chose an automotive machine shop to get the ball joints back in for safety and peace of mind. I also had them replace the front axle universal joints. I removed the differential carrier for removal of the inner axle seals.Once you are certain the steering components are functional, then1. Center the steering wheel.2. Pin/hold a long straight edge against the passenger side front and rear tires, noting if the front tire is toe in or out.3. Adjust drag link until the straight edge contacts both edges of the front and rear tire, re-secure it to the tires as you adjust the drag link to ensure it remains in contact.4. Lift the vehicle to remove both front tire/wheels.5. Attach the tool to the driver and passenger side to the two lowest lug nuts on each side.6. Locate the matching recess locations (front and rear on both tools) and utilize adhesive tape to fasten the TWO of the same brand tape measurers to the tool on the side of your choice wheel lug nuts.7. Stretch/extend both tape measures under/across to the other side of the vehicle.8. Hang the tape measures over the matching two recess locations, using their locking feature to ensure both are dangling in the air and not touching the ground, noting the reading.9. Use a bubble level to insure both sides are level.10. If adjustment is needed, loosen the left and right side retention bolts for the drag link to allow manipulation.11. Adjust until recommended specs are met, the re-tighten the tie rod end adjustment retaining bolts and check again to ensure correct.During the procedure the tool was pushed out of level, so check it often.My Jeep was 1-1/8" toe out (very bad), and now its as close as a jeep driver could expect. The tool is an excellent design.

Not that complicated of a product, but would easily have taken me an hour or two to make at home from angle iron. The benefit of having a tool like this is it saves so much time. I checked my alignment that I did myself last year with the shower curtain method. That took me most of an afternoon. The results were easy to read. I had set it at 1/32 toe-in. Now I know not to even loosen my tie rod. Fives minutes of work. Well worth it.

Used this multiple times and is worth the money, guidances measurements on are on it and just that. If you have a lift, check your instructions for toe in and out measurements.

This looks well made but it not what is pictured. The item in the picture includes 2 measuring tapes. These are necessary to measure the alignment. That’s not clear from the description.

These worked great. As there is only one adjustment you can make on a 1985 CJ7 for alignment, TOE IN OR TOE OUT, this is all you need to get it spot on. You will need two accurate tape measures, and tie rods you can still adjust. I had just put new Rugged Ridge tie rods on so it was easy to give them a twist and hit the calibration target. Amazing how little adjustment makes a big difference. The well documented "Redneck" Jeep alignment would never get you this accurate.