Cooluli 15L Mini Fridge with Magnetic Blackboard - Portable Small Refrigerator for Travel, Car & Office, V15LE2BK

I love this mini fridge! I keep it in my bedroom for water, coffee creamer, snacks and beauty items. You can carry it to the beach, picnics, tailgates and more. It has handles on top. It also has a car plug (DC) as well! And it can keep things warm, too! It has a cold/warm switch. I love the chalkboard door! I put Keep Out lol

Hola, en mayo del año pasado compré un refri con ustedes y dejó de funcionar. Hay alguna garantía o centro de servicio? Saludos

Buen tamaño para guardar medicinas y cosméticos

The metal plate on the door fell off within about a hour. But I got glue to reattach it and it has not happened since then.

I've had this fridge for a bit over a year -- and like many others, one day I found it simply not working anymore. Unlike many others -- I know that this fridge is nothing more than a switch-mode power supply, a peltier element, a heatsink, a fan, and some toggle switches -- I know there's very little to fail inside and how to diagnose and repair the device. Armed with this knowledge, I disassembled the unit -- and, hoo boy. The Hot-Off-Cold switch passes the full current the device uses to operate straight through it in any mode, which is fine, except for the fact that the switch is rated for 3A. 3 amps. The device is internally powered by 12 Volts, and you'll note the power consumption is listed as 67 watts. If we assume the least efficient SMPS ever, the peltier element is still drawing 50W from the 12v bus -- so, over 4A through that 3A rated switch. In all probability, it's over 5A through that switch. The results were predictable. The switch suffered failure relating to overheating. The first attached picture is the charred remains of the switch's fiberglass backplane. (I chipped it to hell removing it, sorry I didn't take pictures while it was intact). Now -- if you're the enterprising sort like me, it's not rocket surgery to replace the chinsy through-hole switches included with seriously-overkill, industrial-grade DPDT toggles wired to the original board with 20AWG, silicone jacketed wire. This is a seriously overdesigned repair that will likely see the unit run for years until the power supply fails, and it cost like $10 and took a day. I've included pics of my repair job. -->Make sure you know what you are doing if you attempt this! <--, 4 of the internal plugs are identical in shape but not interchangeable in function so I recommend color-coding the jacks and plugs before disassembly. Additionally, you'll need to drill out new holes for the switches, and they won't both fit within the original panel. Make sure you tone-out the assembly with a multimeter and make sure everything is as-expected before putting it back together. Also, you'll need to mount the interconnect board somewhere since it was originally held onto the back cover just by the screw holes on the included switches. I protected the exposed terminals with kapton and used 3M 300LSE to stick it next to the heatsink, which is admittedly inideal but it should be fine. If you have one of these things that failed, and you're comfortable with a soldering iron, you probably already know how to fix it based on what I said. If you're confused -- full stop, do not attempt the repair. There is live mains voltage inside the case when plugged in and if you don't know what you're doing, you could hurt yourself. Ask a friend who's handy with electronics. If the manufacturers had spent like a dollar more on the design of this, none of this would be an issue. This is a completely unacceptable level of underdesign, and I'm surprised it has not started a fire for someone. If you already own one -- good luck with the repairs, if you don't -- keep it that way.