FrogLube Professional Grade Super Degreaser, 8 oz. Pump Spray
J**D
Good that I thought it was just water and I didn't need a lot so returned it for a smaller amount
Pros: No bad odor, doesn't stick on hands. Feels like water. But i know it works and isn't water since I tried this on a new pistol and still got a lot of residue off. Comes with a screw and a spray cap.Cons: None
D**A
Must have item with froglube.
I bought into froglube back into 2012/13 period when I really used the product. I liked it so much that I would endorse it to everyone. Until I pulled out a stored rifle and found it was glued shut. I also found rifles that were store a while worked sluggish compared to the butter smoothness of a first application.So I stopped froglube and used other products until about a year ago when I ran out and decided to give froglube a chance. At the time of my first experience not a whole lot of info on the sticky goo that happened. Now with a few years in I found a fairly abundant info on why the stickiness happened. The problem is old cleaning products and carbon residue collects in certain places on the firearm and froglube interacts with that. Apparently it makes it sticky but I’m not sure if I believe that or not. To do my own testing I took some petrol clp and mixed it with some froglube. And for test case I put some froglube by itself. After a few days I noticed the clp petrol mixed froglube indeed turned gummy and the froglube by itself did not. So I decided to buy the solvent and completely sprayed everywhere.It’s been a year now since doing this and froglube has worked like magic. No sticky and no gumming up. I did not do the crazy deep cleaning where I punched out everything. All I did was sprayed it with solvent and used qtips for the hard to reach places. I really like froglube now and highly recommend buying both the solvent and paste products.
J**N
“Greatest thing ever or Snake Oil?” My experience and field test with FrogLube.
So I know most people are in one of two camps, either “FrogLube is the greatest thing ever” or “it’s snake oil.” So all I can do is tell people about my experience with this and let them decide for themselves what’s best for them. Let me start by saying I don’t use this on my antique guns, I had read that there is some issues with old seasoned guns where the petroleum based oils deep inside the metal reacts negatively with the Frog Lube and creates kind of a gummy surface. So I avoided that happening and I only use this on my new guns, especially ones that I use a lot. Let me start by telling you I shoot a lot. So my prep with this is pretty straight forward, I begin by breaking down my firearm I want to treat and I completely degrease it with the FL Super Degreaser. Basically what I’m trying to do is get all the old oil off the firearm. I then heat the metal with a heat gun and wipe CLP over all metal parts. I then wipe any standing oil off and in the hard to reach parts I use a head gun to blow the oil out. I let the gun parts dry and then wipe everything down with a terry cloth almost buffing the surfaces. In my opinion this is one time deal with a new firearm, I don’t ever mix different types of gun cleaning oils. So after that initial breakin heat treating I seldom do it again for that firearm, I just clean with the CLP and occasionally with with the Frog Lube cleaner.My FL test: Last year I wanted to experiment with FL so I took my Beretta Outlander and I did a full strip and heat treat on it. I then used it for an entire season without cleaning it once. I shot a few rounds of Skeet and trap, I ducked hunted and literally every single weekend from mid October to the end of January I upland hunted. In the dirt, mud and 15 degree temperatures I had zero issues with the gun. Then at the end of the season I cleaned it and I was shocked by how easy all of the fowling wiped out of the barrel. It took no time at all, even on the gas port which on the Beretta Semi Autos are notorious for getting filthy. It all just wiped off with CLP. I had zero corrosion and the barrel was spotless. There was no scrubbing stuck on fowling, literally it was no difference then a normal cleaning that I would do after coming back from shooting a single round of skeet. It was perfect.So in my scouring of the internet I’d like to hit on a couple of points that might help people when thinking of going the FrogLube route:-Use with newer guns that don’t have years and years of oil build up-Fully strip down and degrease the firearm prior to using a FrogLube product-Don’t mix other types of gun oils and cleaners with FrogLube-Don’t over oil and wipe any excess FrogLube off after cleaningHope this helps
M**N
Great Product
Froglube is the best cleaning system I've found, so I love the Super Degreaser! Here's why:1) Super Degreaser actually removes dirt and carbon. Once you use it you're all set to add CLP. Most people don't "clean" their guns, they pour a CLP on their dirty gun and wipe it around.2) Super Degreaser keeps your Froglube CLP from getting "sticky" because it removes the carbon/dirt that makes it get that way. Use this first, dry the gun, then add the CLP. It won't turn sticky.3) I water this down to a 10:1 ratio to make a "solvent" that I think is very close to the Froglube Solvent. Works great for your average cleanup.Only thing I don't like is the price. It's very likely just water and a high-grade detergent, so I think it could cost 1/2 of this price.Great product, though!
S**H
Works great
Seems to work really well removing old oil and grease. Good prep for application of CLPI have been very impressed with the frog lube line of products. I noticed that one of the gunsmiths charges extra for work on pistols which have been treated with Froglube. My guess is that the premium is related to the effort to completely remove Froglube. The gunsmith's clients are primarily competition shooters whose weapons never see dirt or everyday use conditions.
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
2 weeks ago