🚀 Elevate Your Drive with Precision Alignment!
The MOOG K100159 Alignment Caster/Camber Kit is designed specifically for Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models, ensuring your vehicle is restored to factory specifications. This kit addresses common issues like excessive tire wear and steering problems, featuring shims and bushings for precise adjustments. With proven engineering and easy installation, it’s the perfect solution for maintaining your vehicle's performance.
C**.
Going to try to help here...
I've bought these many times and never destroyed one. Why? Because if you do it right it's really simple and there shouldn't be enough weight on the bushings to crush camber washers or round out the flat side of the camber bolt hole. Even 'mechanics' or alignment guys can screw things up if their impatient or force the crap out of these or any other bolts, nuts or washers. If you're going to try to do this job yourself, mechanics too, then you 'should' follow these steps.1st. Lift the side you're working on by the bottom of the lower control arm... to remove AND install. If you lift the truck anywhere else your putting ALL the weight on the upper & lower control arms and the camber bolts will lock into place. I won't list all the problems this causes but the bad reviews cover some of them. You shouldn't be forcing bolts to move, camber gauges to crush, nuts to strip or holes to round out. If things are ready to remove or install the bolt & camber washers should easily move the side of the arm you're working on with a 13/16th or 21mm open end wrench. So first get the weight off the upper control arm by lifting the truck from under the lower control arm. Spray penetrant on the old bolts a day in advance if you can, tap it with a hammer and/or heat it up if the old bolts are seized. Once it's ready to turn it's going to move like butter. Some people "think" it's siezed when the flat side of the bolt is really "seated" already. This goes for installation as well. Most alignment guys are really just reading numbers and trying to reach those numbers. Most aren't master mechanics or engineers. A huge part of any job is knowing what something looks like when you can't see it! Don't blame the tools or the hardware!2nd: I can't stress this enough... DON'T TIGHTEN THE NUTS OR BOLTS BEFORE YOU DO YOUR ADJUSTMENTS!!!!!! After you install the new hardware, tighten it lightly and adjust. If you're a home mechanic, just set it to where it was originally that worked and tighten then take it for alignment. If the alignment shop knows what they're doing they'll loosen the camber nut, wiggle the bolt out of the last setting and reset to new specs... then lock and tighten. People think they're taking a bolt out and putting one in?! It's not that simple. If your bolt is too high your tire will push back into the fender liner. If it's too low the tire will tow in like crazy, beat up your ball joints & tie rods and tear your tires up from the road trying to force it back to correct position.3rd & finally: Even pros can screw up. Don't force ANYTHING. If it's not moving freely then stop & figure out why. If you have a 13/16th 1/2" socket on and it's not moving the arm around up and down easily it's locked and you need to free it up. No heat or you'll compromise the new a-arm bushing. Just spray it with penetrant and move it around untill it unlocks, move it to where you want it to stay and use a 13/16ths (or applicable) ratchet wrench to tighten the nut. Whoever's forcing the crap out of these to cause damage to these MOOG bolts is trying to force something that doesn't want to be forced. You're damaging the factory holes & guides in the frame perches as well. Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it's all good. New bolts & washers don't fix that either. You can wear the unseen parts out that the hardware ties into & you'll make it harder to get or keep a good alignment. Could cause the arm to pop out while driving also. If you take it slow and easy this job should be simple. And remember ONLY TIGHTEN when you're finished & don't try to adjust if everything's not loose! You, me and we should never have damaged hardware unless we've done something wrong! I've been wrong a lot... and that's how we leard to get things right. Don't force it! My Moog Greasables are awesome. I have them on 3 lifted trucks and my Hummer. Haven't F'd one up yet. Maybe factory hardware is better grade 8 quality, so use the factory washers & nuts if you want. Or just use anti-sieze on dorman or factory black oxide bolts if you don't want to use the greasables. Either way you should probably order some guide pins in case you need them during this installation. All that said, being smart is being safe, especially when dealing with your suspension.
C**S
I question that these are genuine Moog
After installing these adjusters, I took a short drive. Once I reached my destination, I made a turn, and something didn't feel right. I investigated, and found that one of the adjusters had come loose. I tried to tighten it, but the threads stripped. I was astonished. The nut was fine, but the threads on the bolt were soft. I know my alloys, and that bolt was not good quality.
B**N
5 Stars for the bolts, Zero stars for the NUTS!
The nuts being supplied are complete garbage. I went to my local hardware store to verify this. The bolts work just fine with any other nuts, I chose to use the old stock nuts with the new bolts and cams. The nut threads are not finished the last two turns, you can verify this by running the nut the other direction, it won't even thread on the bolt. Do not try and crank the bolt through the nut, it'll just shear off the bolt threads like others have stated.The bolts are 5 stars. My old upper control had a stuck cam bolt(no grease!), which led me to destroying the cam washer. I got an alignment the day after installing and everything is driving great.Not sure about the folks saying the washers are too soft. The cam bolts call for 100ft/lbs-120ft/lbs or Torque, depending on vehicle.Initial Greasing Method:1. Hand Tighten First.2. Grease the bolts until grease seeps around the arm bushings3. Torque the bolts to spec4. Grease bolts one or two pumps and wipe off excess.
M**C
Truck comes with this type of product.
Sorry, this is not a review so much as a recommendation. My truck (2006 Silverado 2500) comes from the factory with this type of product already installed. You only need it if your parts are damaged or missing (there are pins in the frame that are reported to sometimes fall out -- they may be available separately).I didn't look first, as I was ordering parts after wrecking my truck. It cost me return shipping. Check to see if your vehicle already has this installed.
J**E
Bolt
Great product
K**W
Good for money
Good
R**.
Help
Thanks for the aid.
G**G
Worth doing, well made, eases alignment
These made this so easy to adjust, and keep the prothane bushings lubed, without having to take them apart. Great product, makes alignment much easier.
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
3 days ago