SIGNIAbrasive nylon Drawing Wheel Drum Burnishing Brush for wood polishing 1 pack (60 Grrit, Red color nylon)

This exceeded my expectations in quality as i put it right to work gently cleaning moss from roof shingles then washing them with soapy water using this as a most excellent scrub brush spinning at 10k rpm. I do look like the jolly green giant now so do wear proper ppe. Example a faceshield. I was ready.

I bought this for removing excess charcoal and smoothing boards using the shou sugi ban method. I do use a wire brush (from harbor freight) on a broom handle to remove the majority of the burnt wood. Any other spindle I looked at had bad reviews, so I made my own and it's EASY !! and waaaay cheaper. I used a 12" pc of 1/2" all-thread rod (from any home improvement or hardware store), some leftover bearings (you can get them on Amazon--just search for 1/2" bearing), a few nuts and washers, and some scrap PVC pipe. The 1/2" all-thread may seem overkill, but the nuts fit the brush with only a minor modification, and I'd rather have it overbuilt versus it breaking. I slid the bearings on and held them in place with a nut on each side. I cut the PVC pipe long enough to cover the bearings, then cut it lengthwise into 4 sections, and placed it on the bearings using double sided tape to hold it temporarily, and then duck taped it securely. Next, from the long threaded end, thread on a nut, then a washer--this will be where the end of the brush will sit. The 2 nuts that prevents the brush from spinning must be filed or ground down....if you set the nut on a flat surface, the points at 3 and 9 o'clock will need to be reduced (about 1/8" from each side) so they will slide into the brush's core....a slightly firm fit is better, so don't get crazy when filing or grinding them....place them on the rod when checking the fit. Positioning the 2 nuts-- set them far enough apart so they are inside the brush by about 1/4" on each side. When you put the 2 nuts on, they must be oriented/clocked the same....just set the whole device on a flat surface and tack weld or add red loc-tite and let cure for 24 hrs.By now, you'll have a handle with nut, washer, followed by the 2 nuts that are permanently secured (see pic). Now, slide the brush on and use a washer, lock washer, and a nut to hold the brush in place. I left about 1.5" of excess sticking out for the drill to attach to. I use a cordless drill on the lo/slow setting and it works perfectly. Slow enough, so you don't over work an area, but with plenty of torque. The 120 grit leaves a very smooth finish--this was my biggest concern. It should last a lifetime....and then some.Shopping list:2--1/2" ID sealed bearings1--12" length of 1/2" all-thread rod8--1/2" nuts2--1/2" washers1--1/2" lock washerScrap PVC pipeDuck tapered loc-tite (if not welding)

Works great

Still have it but don't use it. No real need for it. For the correct application it may do well like polishing shoes etc.

Great item.

This is probably frowned upon by the manufacturer, but I bought it hoping it would fit the Craftsman Restorer tool and it doesn't. However, it works great on a drill. It's a well made product and priced right. Wish they made one for the restorer.

Incredible durability and removes material to a beautiful polish.

I expected it to eat up as much wood as a 60 grit sand paper or flap disc would, but this brush seems to only be as effective as a 120 or higher grit. Maybe it needs to be spun up faster than the 3K rpm max that my machine puts out?

I’m using it to remove surface rust from a galvanised decking roof. I want to remove the surface rust without damaging what’s left of the galvanising. This brush takes the rust off and lightly polishes the Gal. Brilliant! So far I have brushed 60 squar meters. The brush has lost some bristles but I consider this to be normal ware and tare for this job. I have reversed the brush to take advantage of the undamaged area of the brush. I have just purchased a replacement as I’ve got a lot more roof to do before winter.