Clipper 840 Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade, 3.9-Inch, black

I purchased the Mora Carbon Clipper from Sword Demon for $8 and change. When I received the knife, it was razor sharp (and I mean that literally, you could shave with it). One of the reasons for the knife's sharpness was that it had a "Scandanavian grind" blade with a very low angle on both sides - probably about 14-13 degrees. The sharpener I used for reference only went to 15 degrees and the angle was clearly lower than that. That tends to make for a very sharp knife, though I am curious how well it will hold up in regular use since that angle is steeper than what I use on paring knives in the kitchen. The good news is the Clipper is extremely easy to sharpen. Even a novice can do it thanks to the grind, you just lay the bevel against a flat stone and scrape the whole bevel. No special sharpeners or even much skill needed to keep this knife sharp. However, if you dislike this approach and want to do a compound bevel, you can use various pull-through sharpeners or other sharpening techniques and those will work as well, though, you lose the simplicity of any person being able to sharpen the knife on a flat stone. The knife is a good, solid shop knife at an extremely good price. Because it is so cheap, you don't feel a lot of regret in using it in ways you would never use a $60 knife, and surprisingly it holds up pretty well for a knife that looks like a gaudy steak knife; but it can be broken if abused. The knife is also carbon steel - which means it will rust if it is left wet. It also means it isn't the best knife for saltwater/high-humidity environments. You can oxidize the blade (Google "Forcing a patina") and it will give it very minor protection against rust; but the patina is usually not deep enough to be useful and will scrape off when you sharpen the knife. The patina will also slightly dull the edge (since it basically oxidizes the very fine edge), though the knife is still plenty sharp afterwards. So far, I've just been cleaning the knife after use, drying it off completely, and every once in a while, I give it a little coat of canola oil. No rust problems so far. If you buy this thinking it will beat out your Becker or ESEE, you are probably going to be disappointed. If you buy it as a cheap utlity/shop knife, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at what it can handle. It isn't the best knife in the world; but it easily outperforms knives costing several times what this costs. UPDATE: Batoned the knife about 4" deep into some wrist-thick seasoned hickory I had laying around as firewood. Originally planned on trying to split the wood; but gave up as it was a lot of work driving that tiny wedge through the wood without much blade I could hit. After some yanking and pulling to get the blade free that I was sure would have bent the blade, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the blade was straight and still razor sharp. I kind of expected the edge to roll a little bit with an angle that sharp, but it did not.

It is not often that I can recommend ANYTHING without meaningful reservations. This little knife occasions one such time. My observations reflect most of the ones that have already been made. The knife feels very good in the hand, it is inexpensive, and it cuts like a mother-in-law's tongue! In regard to the last observation, this little knife comes pretty sharp from the factory but it really shines after it is properly sharpened. (By the way, carbon steel Clippers ARE easy to sharpen but the first sharpening can take a bit of time, After all, Clippers are cheap knives and, while their "factory edges" can cut well one cannot expect the same kind of "niceties" on a Clipper that one might find in a much more expensive knife. After the first sharpening, however, the knife actually is quick and easy to sharpen.) A properly sharpened edge on a carbon steel Clipper knife can be scary! One almost gets the impression that Excalibur was made in Sweden. (This is a slight, but very slight, exaggeration!) Even the knife's much-maligned sheath does a nice job of protecting the blade (and, protecting one from the blade) and it doesn't carry all that badly. Those who would "improve" this sheath will find ample ideas on YouTube. I have often read that the Clipper is a "light duty" knife. It is true that the knife's blade is thinner than some Scandinavian knives (which, by the way makes it a great slicer, unlike too many knives from that part of the world). However, I would be very hesitant to consider the knife to be in any way "fragile". As videoed "destruction tests" prove it requires an awful lot of abuse to wreck these things. I find it difficult to imagine a reasonable scenario where these knives would not work as well as any knives of their size. One potential problem that has not been mentioned is the problem of "maintainance"...i.e. being able to "maintain" one's ownership of these knives. It seems that someone always needs this knife more than the current owner. This is no big problem if a "stash" of these knives is kept, however. I have never known a person to whom I have given one of these knives to be anything other than thrilled with it and (at least temporarily) with me. This goes double for a male purchaser with a woman in his life. He would do well to go ahead and order two "Clippers" because one of them is almost certain to mysteriously "disappear" in short order. This phenomenon has been known to happen even when the female partner is otherwise unimpeachably honest and upright! My recommendation would be that the purchaser buy at least four of these knives for his own use and then order a custom sheath. This should keep him and his grandchildren nicely in knives at least until the turn of the next century (or, until such knives are banned, whichever comes first). The only other "improvement" that I can recommend is to file the spine if the knife's blade flat. The knife will look a bit better and the modified spine also works very well with ferrocium fire starters and even as the "steel" in "flint and steel". The Clipper has recently been phased out, though I understand that Mora is now offering a knife that is pretty similar. That having been said, I recommend that "real" Clippers be purchased for as long as they are available.

Look at my photo, I have bought 6 of these over the years! They are that good... I have one in each of my cars, in my tool box, in the kitchen junk drawer and in the out door garden shed. They have a super rubber grip that fells very good in your hand. The blade is beyond sharp out of the box. And the best part they are rather inexpensive for what you get. In the one photo, you can see some rust spots. That is from when I accidentally dropped the in the garden and it was out in the weather for about a month until I found it. THE RUST IS NOT THE KNIFE'S FAULT! Any carbon steel blade will rust if you do not take care of it. I show this because the bale is such a high quality there is only a little rust after having been outside for a month. If you take care of your knife, it will last you a lifetime!

Not much to say that has not already been said many times over. In terms of value and quality, Morakniv knives are the best...bar none. In the right hands (not abusive hands,) these knifes are extremely durable and will cut all day before needing to be sharpened in which the knife readily takes an edge. Over the years, I have owned plenty of knifes but have also always had Mora Knives and this new purchase joins the ever growing collection.

Great all purpose utility knife. I’ve kept this in my tool bag ever since I bought it. I’ve used and abused it almost daily, and it continues to hold up and be a great knife. I have however snapped the tip off once, but due to the ease of sharpening this knife, the repair was quick and easy! Absolutely recommend this knife for anyone who uses a knife daily and is capable of doing their own sharpening. It does hold an edge fairly well, but after cutting heavy construction material or anything else for that matter, it will definitely need to be sharpened

I bought this belt knife for a grandchild, as it is slightly more petite than, say, the Mora Companion. Over the past four decades I’ve bought perhaps twelve Moras for myself and as gifts. The quality never diminishes (which can’t be said for the brands that have outsourced to Asia) and never disappoints. This knife would be good value at three times the price. I’m sure I’ll be buying a few more Moras before I’m done.

If you’re using this knife, buy a companion instead. Otherwise, you’ll need to treat it with some sort of oil to prevent corrosion instead. I didn’t realize it was carbon steel and not stainless steel when I bought it, and whatever “corrosive resistant” material they use on it doesn’t work at all. I got it wet once, didn’t dry it off completely, and it spot rusted. Just spent the extra $10-$20 on the stainless steel models.

You cannot go wrong with a Mora! This knife is the thinnest out of all the moras and because of its thin profile i think it is one of the sharpest. I have many other moras and this one is my favorite to work with wood. This knife is amazing at carving and cutting. Edge retention is great, all you need is leather strop and this knife will last you a very long time before you need to sharpen it. It came out of the box extremely sharp and ready for use. I would not use this knife to baton wood. You probably could for very small pieces but I would not recommend it. It excels as a carver and cutter. If you want to baton, get a more robust knife. I do not think they make the clipper model anymore, so get it while it last.