Magnasonic All-in-One 24MP Film Scanner with Large 5" Display & HDMI, Converts 35mm/126/110/Super 8 Film & 135/126/110 Slides into Digital Photos, Built-in Memory (FS71)

Can’t recommend highly enough!! I looked through a ton of similar models and am thrilled with this one. It has done a great job on my grandpa’s 135mm slides from 1940s-1970s. It’s been awesome to have the option to digitize negative film also! Very user friendly and dependable for a great price

I finished scanning over 8,000 negatives (up to 35 years old), including one Black&White set of negatives. On the whole, this is a really awesome little gadget. It does all the basics, very efficiently, and with a very minimal learning curve. I managed to complete my scanning in less than 6 weeks, working basically on weekends (maybe 40-60 hours tops). It really beats having to scan your prints, using your home printer, at the rate of 3 minutes per print, assuming you have a decent copy of your prints. With this machine, it takes longer to get the negative out of its current location, identify the proper side, than to load it and make the digital copies. I have not tried any of the other similar products, so I'm not sure how they compare. What I've used: - Different negative types (mainly 35 mm, color & black&white, some 110, some 126) - it has all of the adapters - A perfect little dust brush to clean the interior glass surface on a regular basis (particularly if you own cats/dogs in the house). - The brightness setting for particularly under or over-exposed pictures. Keep in mind that it won't make the picture better, just lighter or darker. What you'll need: - an SD card to load your scanned images, which you'll then need transfer elsewhere A couple of things that could be improved: - With the included adapters, you can only scan the equivalent of a 4x6 ratio, which you can easily adjust horizontally (left or right) as you see fit, but which you cannot adjust vertically (top or bottom), meaning that it crops the top and bottom for you systematically. The only way around the vertical cropping is not to use the adapter and feed the negative without the adapter, at the risk of not positioning it quite right. I only did that for a few pictures. - It would have been nice to have a USB cable into your computer directly and skip having to scan the negative onto an intermediary SD card. I guess it was fine though, the SD card served as my backup until I copied the photos to alternate devices. However, the SD card adds on to the overall price of the project, but you can repurpose the card later. - The default color may not be perfect, although who knows whether it's the machine's fault, or the deterioration of the colors on the negative strip itself. I had a hard time using the feature without the original print for comparison. A few things to keep in mind: - If your negatives are in good shape, and were high quality to begin with, this machine will work beautifully. If your negatives are bad, no machine in the world will make them better. - If you need a poster size high-quality image, then you might consider taking those negatives to a professional. But for 4x6 prints, this machine is fine. For perfection, you'd have to invest in a much fancier, pricier and more time-consuming device. If you have the time and money, that would be ideal. In the meantime, this little machine is pretty nice.

Does the job nicely. It's quick and pretty accurate. It does cut off a little bit of the 35mm slide but not enough to make much difference. Transferring the images to my Mac is easy and quick. The internal memory only holds around 15 images but after transferring them it's easy to delete the memory and start again. I wouldn't use it much for editing the images. Just transfer to your computer and use your editing software for that. The only quirk I noticed is that when a slide is very dark, the screen flickers like it's about to crap out but once you remove that slide everything goes back to normal. This probably isn't for a professional but it's great for average home use to convert your slides.

This is the third film to digital scanner I've purchased, and it is the best. The others worked, but not easily and I always had problems. This unit has a nice display to show you where your alignment is and it captures good quality images from the slides. It is a nice size, not too big, not too small. You'll need to remember to check for dust and clean it, but that is simple with the supplied cleaning stick (or a can of compressed "air"). I highly recommend this unit for home users - professionals may have different standards, but it certainly would work for their proof sets.

TL;DR: Cheap, usable, but dark by default, crops the image more than expected, and requires post-processing to look good. This is very much a "you get what you pay for" item. It feels cheap and outdated, and the quality is just average. ---------------------------------------------------- Out of the box, scans are noticeably dark and flat. You typically have to increase brightness (+0.5 to +1.0 EV) to get usable results, especially with older or dense slides. Even then, dynamic range is limited and shadow detail is weak. Expect to do post-processing if you want the images to look good. One of my biggest complaints is how much the scanner crops the image. Other reviewers are right! Compared to other methods, the Magnasonic consistently cuts off more of the slide frame and edges. This isn’t optional or adjustable. If you care about preserving the full image area, this is a major drawback. I thought it would be okay, but it really bothers me. I’ve attached comparison photos showing: - Magnasonic default settings - Magnasonic with +1.0 brightness - A photo taken with a Pixel 10 phone through a handheld slide viewer (pardon the dust--it's inside the viewer) These comparisons make it clear what the scanner does well (consistent, neutral capture) and where it falls short (limited dynamic range, muted color). The phone photos often look better immediately due to aggressive AI processing, while the Magnasonic scans look flatter and require more work afterward. The live preview can flicker when scanning very dark slides, which is distracting (though the saved image itself is stable). The scanner also has no clock, so every image is stamped with the same incorrect date, which creates extra cleanup work if you upload to Google Photos or care about metadata. This is not a high-quality archival scanner. It's a low-quality way to digitize family photos for funsies. Colors are muted, contrast is low, and fine detail is only average. It’s usable, but it feels outdated and cheap compared to modern imaging tools. If your goal is museum-quality scans or full-frame preservation, look elsewhere. If you just want an inexpensive, basic way to digitize slides and you’re willing to accept cropping, limited dynamic range, and extra post-processing, this scanner will do the job I guess. For the price, it's "good enough," though it's really only worth 2/3 of the price, IMO. I don't think I'll send it back, but I wouldn't recommend it. I'll probably still end up getting my best slides processed by a professional scanning service.

This is a great scanner for the price. I tested it on various slides, on different film types, too light or dark, with a color cast, etc. I'm a picky photographer. The scanner automatically brightened a dark slide to be exposed properly without being "blown out" (totally white), but overexposed slides came out dark; again, I used a photo editor to fix the image. I only scanned a few color negatives, so I can't comment in general... but one underexposed negative (which should be too dark) scanned too light, with no true black. So, again, a photo editor is your friend for improving some scans. The images from slides were very sharp. I could see the film grain in the scanned image. The cable is fairly short. You might need a longer USB-A to mini-USB cable. The unit gets power from the USB cable. If you don't have a computer, you'll need a mini-USB power supply brick that plugs into a wall outlet. (This means you can use the scanner on a laptop.) The scan was almost instant. (Unlike other film and paper scanners I've used, there's no light/scan bar that moves across the image.) From a 35mm slide I got a scan file 6000x4000 pixels, 6.2 MB file size. (The 6.2MB will vary depending on how complex your original photo is... that's how JPGs work.) A bit of the edges were cut off, but this was usually fine. The color adjustments are in steps and a bit coarse (0, 0.5, 1.0, etc.; you can't pick a value between). They worked pretty well for big changes, but I preferred a photo editor and a computer screen. You'll need to understand that these three settings -- red, green, and blue -- can be negative to add the opposite color. For instance, yellow is the opposite color of blue. If the image is too yellow, you can't reduce yellow; you have to increase blue. If you don't want to fiddle, your photo editor probably has a "fix color" setting you could try on the saved image. Note that the scanner "remembers" the previous color adjustment... if you don't want that, reset each color after you finish one slide or you capture the next slide. The single negative holder is really frustrating because it doesn't hold a strip of film tightly... so, as you try to put the film strip in the holder into the scanner, it can shift and make the scan off-center. I've ordered a negative holder that holds a whole strip of six photos; that should be a lot easier! Tip: You don't need to open the single slide holder to put a slide in it, then close it. Instead, while the holder is closed, try pushing the slide in from the left end, as in the photo. To avoid touching the film (which will make a fingerprint that can eventually eat into the film!), use your fingernail to scoot the inside of the slide mount left and right. Vertical photos have to be turned to go into the scanner horizontally. I rotated them with the lossless JPG rotation in the amazing free Irfanview app... or you could open the image in a photo editor, which takes a bit more time. On my Windows 11 desktop, when I went to "Connect to PC" on the scanner menu, the File Explorer app opened. It (in this case, the F: drive) showed the photos in the scanner memory. You'll need to transfer the photos yourself if you want to keep copies after you unplug the scanner. If you aren't familiar with File Explorer, you can probably use another app that copies the photos for you. Kodachrome slides scanned just fine. (Kodachrome is a problem on some scanners.) To help avoid dust spots, insert the cleaning brush through the slot once in a while (dust wasn't a problem for me, though). After you line up the film in the holder but before you put the holder into the slot, use a can of compressed "air" to blow away dust (invisible or visible). If spots bother you after you see the scanned image on a computer screen (where it's much easier to see the spots), use something like the Healing Tool in the powerful free GIMP editor (gimp.org). If you don't line the film up exactly, the scanned image will have a black bar at one side. I had to move the slide holder while it was in the scanner to get rid of the bar. Luckily, after pressing the Capture button, the image on the scanner screen is "live": As you move the slide holder left and right, you can see the black bar disappearing. A scanner like this will be designed to cut off a bit of the edges so you normally won't see a black edge on any side (which would be caused by scanner scanning some of the opaque cardboard slide mount). Some cardboard slide mounts were too thick to fit in the holder easily. A lot of the slides were too thin; they shifted left and right as I handled the holder... I had to carefully hold it flat as I put it in the scanner. Tip: I scanned an underexposed negative, which should come out dark. But the scan was too bright: a bit "washed out", with no true black. I opened the scanned negative in a photo editor and checked the amount of red, green and blue in the scanned file; it didn't have any true darks. (The photo editor's histogram shows this: the left side of each curve, which shows how much of the darkest shade of each color is in the scan, shows no dark colors.) I used the editor to "drag" the left edge of each curve to span the whole width; that improved the scan a lot. (Note: don't just turn down the brightness in the editor because you'll probably lose the brightest colors. Spread the histogram curve so you'll have dark darks and bright whites.) I've included the original scanned photo and the one darkened with my photo editor. Overall, for the price -- even with irritations like trying to align the film in the holder -- this scanner is amazing.

I was afraid it would be difficult to use but it's easy. Amazed that I can get pictures from 40 year old negatives. Only as clear as the originals, so some much better than others. Beats scanning old photos by far. You do need to center well or the light is off, but easy to do mostly. That's why the 4 rating and not 5. But for the money a great product. Saves as a huge MB sz so I have to manually reduce to 1-5 megabytes for each photo. (I don't need 16 Mbyte pics)

This thing rocks! I could not believe the quality of picture it gave from 57 year old negatives and slides!!! The color accuracy of the photos were as of just taken today! It was super easy to scan. No noise. Power source it's plug in. Very portable and great value for the money. I scanned over 600 images. This is a keeper for me.