Renaissance Wax Polish , 200 ml

I bought an Early Lancaster Flintlock Longrifle a little over 15-years ago and used it in a LOT of Revolutionary War Reenactments in Virginia. It's a well balanced and slender longrifle with an exceptional highly figured maple stock and forearm. Like all Black Powder rifles, it has to be cleaned every day that you use it because black powder residue is very corrosive and will pit metal if you don't clean it off. Over the years the finish on the stock that is around the sidelock has weathered a bit and is not as nice looking as the rest of the wood. I put off buying this wax because it is really expensive, but I finally bit the bullet and ponied up the money for it. It's easy to put on but I wasn't real impressed with how it looked. I gave it a light buffing when I applied the wax as called for in the directions. Then I gave it an overall light buffing with a microfiber cloth and turned on the overhead lights. The finish just popped. It's actually very impressive. I have a number of friends from reenactments who swore by Renaissance Wax and say it is a very durable finish. So I expect I may have to reapply the wax once a year or so. It took very little wax to apply to my longrifle which is just over 5-feet long. At this rate I probably will have this larger size around for the next 20-years or so. So yes, this is a great product. It's expensive, but it really works well.

The selling point for me on this product was the point of the British Museum using it, that was good enough for me to give it a try. We have used it on so many things, I will list them along with the results we have experienced. Wood - pieces of furniture, picture frames, lacquered, varnished , wood with very thin or thinning sealers of various kinds. Pieces of furniture nearly 200 years old, new pieces, and everything in between. All types of wood. Our experience in every instance has been that the wax seems to form a protective seal that retards drying of the wood which is excellent, also we have seen an added protection in the case of spills. It improves the look and hydration of woods, especially older woods and depending on the finish or lack thereof the wax can be buffed to a sheen that will vary according to the age and finish of the wood. Bronze, brass, silver, pewter, silver plate and stainless steel that will not be used for food, metals that I am not sure of the type of alloys used, this polish is wonderful on them. I have polished our bronzes twice in the past 12 months and the luster they give off is not only beautiful but very reassuring. Moisture is death to metal and we live in a very high humidity area. This polish is absolutely protecting all of the metals I have used it on against the ravages of moisture and humidity. It is obvious to the eye and time is a good test to see if it is truly working. It is. Books, leather bound, cloth bound, paper bound if the paper has a finish on it. Another wonderful outcome. The wax is amazing on leather that has minimal damage, causing scratches and dirt to disappear, buffing to a high "brand new" looking shine and again protecting from air and moisture. I have used this wax on several books 100- 150+ years old, it improved the look of all of them, and I know added protection and therefore life expectancy to the books. On the older books not all visible marks were totally repaired/covered up. I tried it on some leather bound books where the binding around the tabs and spine had actually started to disintegrate, although I feel it slowed the progress of the decay it was by no means a healer to the damage that was already there, this was not a surprise, because the leather is actually crumbling. Renaissance Wax has made my old cloth bound and paper bound books look stunning. I am huge lover of old books and love rescuing them, Renaissance Wax cannot change poor quality paper into acid free but it has made the outside and even inside end papers(if they have a finish on the paper) look fabulous. And added protection. My husband loves the results the wax has shown on his canes. He feels as I do that protection from humidity and dry air is part of the quality of this product. Prints and paintings that are a copy to look like oil, ormolu on old furniture, gilding on picture frames, finished plastics and objects made of resin, marble, cloisonné, coins, in short we have used this on almost anything that has a finish of some sort on it .My husband loves it on his sword and knife collection, and on the sheaths for the swords.We have not used it on porous objects that we are unsure of the outcome for instance we have not used it on ivory, cloth lampshades ( but we have used it on paper shades that have a finish on them)we have not used it on glass, unfinished ceramic, pottery or items carved from bone or horn. I think that pretty well covers it. You have to experiment a little as how much to use, the better condition the piece is in the less you will need. The older pieces, especially wood if it has begun to lose some of its original finish may require more wax, or better yet more applications building up the protective finish over time. I am so glad to have been introduced to this product. I ordered the 200ml size and as I said it has been a little over a year and we have about one third of the can left. We have a large home and many pieces of wood antique and old furniture pieces and we have been over all of it at least once, some pieces that needed more TLC have received 2 to three coats. So it really does go a long way. The smell is very strong but dissipates quickly ,the smell is not strong enough to induce a headache, some products I have used have given me a headache. I actually enjoy the smell, it brings to mind some old chateau in Europe with the clean smells of polishes wafting through freshly cleaned rooms. The bottom line is I am convinced this wax is protecting our things from both too dry air and moisture and has imparted a protective finish that is also extending the life and maintaining the quality of the pieces we are using it on.

I bought this to help keep the high dollar tools in my woodshop clean and waxed, but once I found out how versatile it was, I bought two more and have been using it for many applications. There is a reason this wax is the chosen product by museum curators. What I like most about this is that it cleans as well as protects - it takes off dirt and oils as you apply it, better than other paste waxes I have used in the past. My old favorite was Behlen paste wax, which is a great product, but Renaissance wax has supplanted Behlen as my go to product. This is easier to work with, cleans better taking off dirt and grime, and is easier to buff to a shine. Sometimes Behlen would set up to quickly and leave a haze / streaks, where Renaissance is much more forgiving on set up time. In the shop I use this on MANY things - plane bodies / irons, my Starrett rules and squares - pretty much any metal tool that I want to clean and protect. And the bonus again is it really cleans well in one step! Sometimes I apply / buff twice for dirtier tools, and it works well. I have also used this on my jointer and planer beds to make the surface slick, and even the table saw. I try and use cheaper paste waxes on my tool beds due to the cost of this wax, but it does work well if you want to foot the cost. I have also found this works great on restoring / protecting more than just my tools - just like in the museums, I have been using this on some of my antiques where I want to keep the patina, yet protect it. I am now using this with more confidence in those applications - this wax simply takes off the dirt and oils, yet leaves the patina without leaving a high sheen. Very nice. I highly recommend this wax to anyone for most any application - it is not cheap - but the results are top notch! Thanks for reading!

So I have ordered this after reading a big deal on sword collector sites. It is the panacea for all the needs of collectors, and so far the fame seems to be deserved. I have 2 occidental swords, limited edition from Lord of the Rings movies (Museum edition series); and I was concerned about how to keep these beauties in a clean and nice way. Tried with silicone oil, mineral oil and while they solve the purpose, leave the blade and hilt greasy and attract a lot of particles, making them quite bad to look at, and in continuous need to be cleaned (get a spoon, put it in honey, lick all honey off and then roll the spoon on the carpet...this is how the swords would look like...I don't have a museum with weatherproof sealed boxes, so dust get on them no matter what :D ) Used this once, and so far great results! It cleaned the old stain on the metal, and the dried residual of oil; and made the metal a bit more shiny (not sure if it removed the aging coat that the sword maker put on the sword; or if it just cleaned it); but it won't look like chrome, so be assured that the sword will stay nice and clean but not shiny and "bling". It works great on the blade, hilt and grip (which is made of leather); I've coated the scabbard too (made of wood, metal and leather), and it looks awesomely clean. The big advantages are that you don't need to coat every few months the blade, since this wax stays on for quite a long time (heard that you need to give another coat once every 6-8 months, based on how much you handle the sword), it doesn't leave grease all over and if you touch the blade with your fingers (don't do it), you can easily wipe away the blade and you are fine; while with the oil you would have to give a new coat (if the grease on the hands goes under the oil coat, with air, it will cause rust to appear on the carbon blade, that's why you never touch with your bare hands a carbon steel blade, unless you clean it thoroughly after). I am happy with it; there is plenty for 10 years of coating :) Tried it on other old items, like silver items which had a dark coat on it, and it didn't work as well as the sword; I guess that Silver has to be cleaned with other products before you can use this wax. Works good on leather and wood chairs, altho it will be expensive to coat 4 chair every 6 months...you may have better luck with common cheaper products, unless you have a louis 15th type furniture :)

The wax is very easy to apply, dries nicely and buffs to good polish (on smooth surfaces of course). Docking a star for very strong, unpleasant smell. While it does not stay long on smooth/metallic surfaces, it might on porous ones. One last point, important to pay attention to listed size and pick the 200ml vs the 65ml if looking for value.

The best polish I ever used. Perfect for 240 year old desk. Easy to apply and a killer shine that looks even better after a day or two. I've worn my arms out going polish-crazy, art, wood, knives, marble....wonder if it would make my hair shine? A little dab-'ll-do-ya. With every penny.

This is a stupendous product for which I already wrote a review several years ago. It read: Unlike other micro-crystalline waxes, this leaves no white residue on your work. Do you need to waterproof a calligraphy project? Renaissance Wax is a product which is often sold to prevent rust but which can have good uses for the Calligrapher. Renaissance Wax is a brand of microcrystalline wax polish that is used in antique restoration and museums. (According to the label on the can, The British Museum uses it.) It is also used as a protective finish for metals to prevent tarnish and rust. (One reviewer on the Amazon site claims to have used it to prevent having to polish his copper sink.) It is also used as a primary finish for cabinetry and furniture. Although not appropriate for all materials, one commercial supplier states it has been used, “to revive and protect valuable furniture, leather, paintings, metals, marble, onyx, ivory etc.” (I have never tried it on any of these surfaces and probably wouldn’t as there are other, specifically formulated products that have been manufactured for most of them.) Wax coatings are used to produce barriers that exclude moisture and oxygen from surfaces. As such I have used Renaissance Wax to cover calligraphy that might be exposed to moisture: Name tags, individual place cards, envelopes. I rub the wax onto the already lettered paper with a soft cloth, then buff it quickly. (If you rub the wax on before you do the calligraphy, the wet ink will not stick to the paper.) Some papers will briefly turn more translucent but will return to the original as the product dries. Then paper will not be shiny when the wax is dry. Renaissance Wax is a blend of refined microcrystalline waxes which remain neutral. I have tested Renaissance Wax and found its pH to be 6.8 (or higher.) It contains petroleum products, rather than all natural waxes. Most current commercial waxes (based on beeswax and carnauba wax) contain acids that can spoil original finishes and cause paper to yellow. I make no claim, however, as to whether it should be used on paper that is expected to last a long time. I do not use it for this purpose. It is great for making sure food or drink does not cause the ink on name tags or place cards to run. Do keep the lid on the jar when not in use; Renaissance wax does evaporate. Given its odor, I believe the wax should also be used in a site where there is good ventilation. While one site claims it “has high moisture resistance, and can be used to protect paper book covers from finger prints and adds luster to water colors and other works on paper,” I recommend trying it on a small sample before using it on any paper. Most creams and whites do fine with it. It causes some darker colors to become “dusty.” Depending on the shininess of photographic prints, it can cause streaks. Renaissance wax can be purchased on a number of internet sites. I have not found any place in the Greater Cincinnati Area that sells it. The price is usually comparable from one site to the next. Amazon and New York Art Supply sell it for about the same price.

Used to protect a polished sword. Looks and feels great, although the smell is rather strong for the first few days after application. Well worth the protective performance though.

La vraie et faite pour ce quoi elle est destinée

If you are looking for Renaissance Wax, then it's pretty likely you know what it is and what you need it for. In my case, it was the final step in the construction of a flintlock. Easy to apply, generous amount for the price and seems to be as protective as the reputation suggests.

Teuer aber gut, benutze es für Blankwaffen!

Un consiglio del liutaio la metto una volta all'anno sulle fasce e sul fondo di una viola, protegge dal sudore, etc. E' assolutamente incolore.

Suited my needs perfectly