Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

As a dedicated bodysurfer who has spent countless hours in the ocean, I found Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life an absolute masterpiece. William Finnegan’s memoir resonated deeply with me, capturing the essence of a life lived in pursuit of the perfect wave.From the very first page, Finnegan’s storytelling prowess hooked me. His vivid descriptions of waves, the ocean, and the diverse surfing spots around the globe transported me back to my own exhilarating experiences in the water. The way he recounts his harrowing adventures and the sheer beauty of the surf is nothing short of poetic.One of the aspects I appreciated most about this book is Finnegan’s unflinching honesty. He delves into the challenges, fears, and triumphs of a surfer’s life, painting a realistic picture that goes beyond the glamorous portrayal often seen in media. His reflections on the camaraderie among surfers, the environmental changes, and the personal growth that comes with the sport are thought-provoking and inspiring.What truly sets Barbarian Days apart is Finnegan’s deep understanding of the ocean. His respect for the sea and its unpredictable nature mirrors my own feelings as a bodysurfer. I found myself nodding in agreement as he described the sensations and instincts that come with being in the water, the thrill of catching a wave, and the respect for the immense power of the ocean.I couldn’t put this book down. It’s a compelling read that will resonate with anyone who loves the ocean, whether they surf, bodysurf, or simply appreciate the beauty of nature. Finnegan’s journey is not just about surfing; it’s about life, passion, and the relentless pursuit of dreams.Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the call of the sea. It’s a beautifully written, deeply personal memoir that captures the heart and soul of surfing—highly recommended!

I thought this book was a masterpiece. I enjoy the genre of "adventure memoirs," of which this is definitely a lead member. Though it is not as thrilling as Lansing's Endurance, or as compelling as Krakauer's Into Thin Air, this book is an intense meditation about surfing and how it shaped William Finnegan's life. Reviews talk about how Finnegan explores themes like family. I did not think so. I think Finnegan explores surfing. In Hawaii. In Southern California. In Portugal. In Australia. In Northern California. In New York.As he learns to appreciate the breaks, currents and tides of each locale, he invariably meets friends, lovers and forms a relationship to his world. In his case, Finnegan's world is at once very large (he travels around the world for several years) and small (he is driven by surfing. That is IT.) The narrative meanders, but compellingly so. I could FEEL the waves with him. Finnegan's writing is excellent, and he is a well-read fellow, sprinkling many literary references throughout. These, in my opinion, added a depth of deliciousness to an already very enjoyable book.If you are from Hawaii, you have to read the first chapter; it is hysterical. If you are from Santa Cruz, or surf Ocean Beach, you must read about his SF days - they are... interesting. If you are from New York, you must read about his discovery of awesome surfing on Long Island and the Sound.That I read this book during the summer months, that I am from Hawaii, live in the Bay Area and have a deep connection to Manhattan only served to expand this book's dimensional delightfulness further for me. Even without these personal connections, this book deserves the attention it is getting. My only thought is I wonder how Finnegan feels about the popularity of this book and how it compares to the popularity and reach of his political publications.Either way, read this book. It is excellent.

I wasn't sure what to expect but I ended up enjoying this book.Starting off with Finngan at age 13 as a white boy bullied in Hawaii's public schools, the book flip flops back and forth between Hawaii and California. Finngan spends some time on Maui surfing Honolua after graduating from high school, then traverses the world in search of his endless winter (big swells are usually in the winter, not summer, Finnegan tells us). He ends up in San Francisco where he meets another burgeoning surf community, very different from Hawaii or Southeast Asia. Then he ends up in New York, married, and middle aged. The book ends with some reflections on life and aging and surfing. Finnegan might be humble bragging a little, but at the end of the day, age or fitness aside, the author is a *really* good surfer who got into it before the waves got too crowded and also lucked out a little professionally where he found himself in the right place at the right time (South Africa in the 80s) and eventually found a passion that fit his talents.I read the beginning part with interest: how is all this going to lead him to landing a job at the New Yorker? And the latter part I read as a reflection on aging. But mostly I read the book as a reflection on Finnegan's pursuit of meaning and love (a girl) and surf. The surf descriptions imbue the whole book was a certain searching mystique, but I agree with the New York Times review that the characters, including Finnegan himself remain a little submerged. His parents are perfect. He himself encounters very little difficulty in life beside a little delay in his professional life as he pursues the thoroughly awesome adventure of surfing the world's finest waves.Reading the book, especially the section about his circumnavigating the globe and almost dying in his 20s, I found myself reflecting on my own life decisions and how I spent my 20s. And, well, I got something out of it.I have to admit, although the descriptions of the waves were gorgeous, I did skip some of these. I'm pretty sure Finnegan has now exhausted all possible descriptions of a wave for all other surf writers.This four is actually a 4.5/5--come on, the writing's good--but I feel like some of it could have been edited down. It's great that he was able to publish all these extensive descriptions of waves, because they are gorgeous, but for the average reader, it doesn't really add to his story.

Ambas copias están arrugadas y una está rota en la parte de la columna del libro.

Non riesci a staccarti

The book every surfer needs to read

This is probably the best book I've read in a very long time. There are so many amazing stories about all the surfing adventures of the author.From a multi-year trip around the world with surfing sessions around the globe, to some unknown surfing locations like San Francisco, to discoveries of surf spots unknown then, but world-renown now - this book contains all of it!

What an incredible read. I say this having had to look up no end of words and references throughout reading the book and even with my lack of education I was never deterred to continue reading. What a unique, honest, wise and unapologetic account from the author and as a surfer who has always been distinctly average to fundamentally crap much of what he describes are unattainable dreams for me but I loved hearing about it. I loved hearing about what are now world famous breaks when they were just discovered secret spots or local worshipers only. This autobiographical referential history of surfing makes a telling that I would liken to the first time you hear a truly great album. I may re-read it but the profound feeling of balance and awe that I have been left with is truly astounding and something for which I am truly grateful to the author. thank you Mr Finnegan and for expanding my vocabulary too 🤙🙌