GE WB30T10133 Genuine OEM 9" Radiant Dual Surface Element for GE Electric Range

This replacement has fixed my stove burner. It looks to be the same as the original manufacturer's burner. The bad burner kept pulsating on and off and finally stopped heating. After taking it out to replace it, the old burner testing showed the thermostat was not working. Coils tested good with the Ohm meter, but the thermostat was still at infinity. The new one worked great after I installed it. Make sure to take a photo of the wire connections to remind you how to reattach them. Cost savings is a bonus with this quality replacement. The shipper's packing was very good and protected the ceramic piece.

Fits perfect and easy to install

Got this for my 4-yr old GE JB650STSS Range to fix the following scenario: Front-left burner stopped working with hot-surface light on 24/7 even w/ a cool surface. Switch light turns on but burner refuses to turn on.Short-story: this part came quick and packaged really well and most importantly, it works!Long-story: I'm a typical guy who has never serviced a range before, but I've done minor handy work around the house. If you're not confident in doing this, hire license people to do this. First off, I had to figure out whether its the switch or the burner itself that was broken. In mine's a burnt spot was visible in my burner right at the end of the metal rod and below coils.Before you check anything, turn off range breaker and pull plug. Electrical range electrocution may be fatal!To check the burner, you will need to unscrew 2 screws on the front right above the oven door. From there you can open the oven much like opening a car hood and see the burner backs. The front-left burner is attached to the glass surface via 2 metal hinges. Unplug the wires first and then use a needle-nose pliers to unhinge the burner. The hinges are a little tricky but if you examine them you will notice there's a little nub that locks the hinge to the burner's frame-holes. Pull against the nub to unhook first and then it should slide off easy. Once the burner is off, check for signs of black burns. You can also check continuity/ohms via multi meter.Hot-surface light is controlled individually by the burners and not the switch for this range.To check the switch, you will need to unscrew a few screws in the back to access the switches. You will also need a multi-meter to measure the continuity/ohms of the switch when its in the off and then the on positions. For instructions on how to use a multi-meter on the switch, refer to YouTube as I'm no expert (or beginner for that matter!) in this unfortunately. You can also open the switch to check for any burns.

Has worked fine for about two years so far. Had a problem with it not functioning, but it turned out that the wire connector had rusted/corroded and fell off the element. I cut and crimped a new connector to the existing wire. Take the time to open it up and double check the connections before just assuming that the replacement unit went bad!

This review is for: "GE WB30T10133 Radiant Element for Stove."Amazon's service was amazing as it almost always is. The original part made by GE arrived quickly, was extremely carefully packaged and in perfect condition. I looked at some instructions online and was able to replace the burner under the induction top in just a few minutes. This purchase made the repair much more cost and time effective than calling a service person. However, it is well worth having a service person come over if you are not comfortable doing things yourself.Thought I'd share a few pointers in the hope that it helps others:1) Make sure that you carefully go over directions, including ALL guidance that concerns SAFETY issues, because you will be working with an electrical system. This includes, but is not limited to, unplugging the burner and turning off all relevant circuit breakers before you start working on the stove.2) Before you unhook your old burner, make sure that the new one has the same connections and make note of which connection goes where.3) It seems that different models may have slightly different clamps/hooks that hold the burner close to the under side of the glass cooking surface. Mine were a bit tricky to remove. Just note that if installed correctly, there is a small spike on the clamp that goes into a small hole on the burner. You need to disengage that spike before you can take the old burner off.4) The insulation and element of the burner appear to be extremely delicate. Handle with care, so that your new burner does not die before it has a chance to produce heat and light!5) Be careful not to tear or disrupt the thick layer of insulation material that sits under all the burners. That's easy to do if you're not paying attention.I'll revise this review if needed, or if I remember something that I did that I have not included here.Overall, this repair was easier and faster than I'd imagined. I hope that you safely have the same experience as I did.All the best!

My wife likes to use one specific burner on our stove, so it burned out. Did a little research on what to buy and how to put it in and then went searching on Amazon for the part. This one was a perfect fit, relatively easy to install and works absolutely perfect. Can't even tell the difference. Highly recommended especially for the price.