Hawai`i Unbuttoned: A Practical Guide to Buying and Selling True-Vintage Hawaiian Shirts

I was given Craig Callaway's Hawai'i Unbuttoned due to the paucity of good references regarding vintage Hawaiian shirts. While the book provides some nuggets of useful information, the emphasis of the book on internet buying/selling, specifically Ebay, greatly limits its value as a resource.The book is divided into three main sections. The first deals with identifying attributes of Hawaiian shirts and being able to separate vintage from modern ones. This section is useful for the novice collector but semi-experienced collectors will likely know most of the tips already. Callaway does a very good job quantifying some of the cues when looking for vintage shirts, such as his calculation of the frequency of horizontal button holes in shirts. But in other cases he gives brusque treatment of some very important topics.For example the subject of fabrics is given a mere half of a page. He doesn't discuss fabric types (barkcloth, cotton lawn, etc.) or fabric composition (cotton, poly-cotton blends, silk, and rayon) in any detail. Instead he just says if you are lucky or experienced, you can tell fabrics by touch. He also gives scant discussion of fabric care labels. Aside from a huge photo of such a label, he dedicates barely half of a page of text (in 14 point font) to the subject. He merely says if there is a fabric care label, it must date before the 1960s. But he fails to discuss how the placement and content of a label can be used to separate 1960s from 1970s era shirts (and early 1960s shirts fall under his definition of `true vintage').The middle section of the book deals with how to measure shirts and how to write up accurate Ebay product descriptions. This section really has nothing to do with Hawaiian shirts at all, and any of the numerous Ebay seller books can provide such tips. He does intersperse some interesting stories, such as how vintage shirts had shorter sleeves than modern ones. But he also devotes a chapter to what you should wear while in Hawaii. Why he spends nearly a full page on this is unclear.The last section deals with manufacturer labels and briefly on buttons. Callaway provides numerous photos and estimated dates for such labels, and this section is likely to be the most valuable for people. But I didn't have full confidence in some of his dating. For example he dates the Hookano label "1940s-50s". But one of his own experts, who has a retail website, sells Hookano shirts with the same label as 1960s. I'm not beating up the author on his dating, as precise dating is extremely tricky. But a novice collector should be aware the dates in the book are estimates, not definitive. Inexplicably, Callaway fails to discuss how a shirt's age can be guessed by how the manufacturer label is sewn into a shirt. But he does provide a very good illustration how to differentiate vintage and modern versions of the same label.I commend Callaway for tackling a difficult topic, but the focus on Ebay severely limits the value of this book. He says he emphasizes Ebay because "that is where the action is", and ends the book by dismissing acquisition of shirts through thrift stores. Really? I have a modest collection of vintage shirts (vetted by his own book) and not one was purchased on Ebay. Tactile cues, such as fabrics, colors, patina, and other clues that require holding and looking at the physical shirt, are largely ignored in this book. This is a skill that requires substantially more experience to develop than just reading Ebay descriptions. So if you are a collector who buys shirts at flea markets, 2nd hand shops, or from vintage clothing dealers, this book will be of extremely limited value. If you are looking for a Hawaiian shirt reference and are concerned about the cost of this book, Nancy Schiffer's book has a large section devoted to manufacturer labels as well as a larger selection of button styles than in the Callaway book.

I've been collecting aloha shirts for 20+ years and have read pretty much everything I can find on the subject. But Hawai'i Unbuttoned surprised me in that it:* is personal, honest, extremely well-written* provides information on shirts and labels I've not seen anywhere else.As the author states, this book "does not show hundreds of photos of shirts you can drool over." But it does help those interested in buying or selling make better assessments and decisions about shirts they already own or those they are contemplating selling or buying.[...]While certainly not an inexpensive book (I bought at Amazon, best price, for $[...]), the book is a great value for those interested in either collecting or selling - or just those fascinated by the phenomenon of the explosion of interest in this specific kind of wearable art. It may save a prospective buyer alot of money and disappointment. And it's filled with expert inside information that I found fascinating. I expect to use this back as a reference guide for many years.

As stated by others, this book contains info not found in other books. As the title suggests, it emphasizes the practical aspects of buying "True-Vintage" Hawaiian shirts (shirts that are 40+ years old). Although it has some advice for buyers and sellers regarding etiquette on the market (Ebay), the meat and potatoes of the book are pictures and corresponding information of 385 labels from a wide range of aloha shirts. This is what makes the book so interesting, as the author had access to some of the most comprehensive collections and knowledgeable collectors around. The book is simply presented, which is fine for the most part; at times however the quality of some of the photography verges on amateurism. This is really the only downside, as the book is a good business resouce for the investor (or reputable seller) and a fun read for aspiring collectors, casual enthusiasts, or garment historians alike. The price is likely reflective of the fact that this book is published in very small runs, due to the esoteric subject matter. If you like to buy Hawaiian shirts without losing your shirt - buy it!

This book should be advertised as "very useful for novice shoppers or people looking to sell on eBay". The author goes into detail on some items but barely skims over others. An example of skimming over is most evident when he mentions types of fabrics. Types of fabrics is the most confusing part for most collectors, is rayon more valuable than silk? Is kabe crepe the pinnacle of rayon shirts? The author only gave half of a page to this subject. I and many others would like answers to questions like this. The only thing of high value I found in this book is the section on labels and date ranges. I did learn that I must buy at least another book to get answers to my questions.

There really is no other book like it. A very definitive manual for buying and selling Hawaiian shirts especially on Ebay. There is nothing better to date. If you thought you knew it all, you will come away w/ a whole lot more than you ever imagined. The book is pricey, but the knowledge in it is priceless and only comes from ones life story. A worthy addition to the library.

As someone who is very interested in Hawaiian shirts and especially vintage shirts, this book is a great reference source. The chapter on labels is informative. Be sure to check the 'Unbuttoned' website for any corrections or updates.

overpriced label guide but helpful

Excellent book, even though it is pricey. It is an great resource book and provides the information in a format that is easily understood. Lots of illustrations.