IRWIN Pipe Clamp, 1/2-inch, 224212

Works perfectly. No complaints. Installed on black 3/4" pipes ordered through Amazon. Highly recommended.

After reading several negative reviews, I almost didn't get these, but I'm glad I did. I use pipe clamps to glue together table tops, amongst other applications. Some have been over 6 feet wide, involving 7 planks and 5 pipe clamps. I have had the threads tear out on a pipe clamp on multiple occasions. This is not the kind of thing you want to have happening while your glue is drying, and you are stuck with digging the thread end out and frantically re-threading your pipe! So the Irwins--yes, they just slip right on the end, no threading needed. Even if the pipe is threaded, they will still grip it firmly. I am at a bit of a loss to understand some of the complaints about spinning. To avoid spinning, you simply hold the clamp body with one hand while cranking with the other. I even had to do this with my threaded pipe clamps, because if you don't hold the body while turning, your clamp may not spin on the pipe, but it can flop right off your workpiece. I never thought about using these as spreader clamps until I read a review that said that they could not be used as spreader clamps--which made me think, maybe they could be. And in fact, they can be. I had the horrible job of repairing a table, where someone had hammered on the round base with 5 4" nails, which needed to be removed. I tried a mallet, which wouldn't budge it. Then I got to looking at this clamp. If you look at the illustration, imagine cutting a piece of support wood to fit into the area you would normally clamp. Do that. Now, as you turn the clamp to squeeze the support piece, it will cause the back side of the clamp ends to spread out. Okay--it's not so convenient, as you have to cut a support piece to length to fit each spreading application. You can only use them at the edge of a piece (not in the middle), so you might have to counter with another spreading clamp at the other side, and it's clumsy handling the wood cut AND the clamp--but it can be done, and when you get it right, it's a VERY powerful spreader. It eased the base right off, 5 fat, long nails screeching against the friction. My clamps came properly assembled, but I have to admit that the first time I used them, I put the non-crank end on backwards; it almost looks right but it's not and of course it won't tighten. As for the horrible plastic packaging--yes, it must be made of kryptonite! But I was able to get it off without any tools by tightening the clamp (the handle sticks out of the plastic case) until the plastic ruptured. The final thing I want to say is, these are best used with black steel pipe--not galvanized pipe. Black steel pipe is a hardened steel and costs a little bit more (I paid about $17 for 20 feet of it). But the black steel somehow fits the clamps better (as in, the clutch never slips), and flexes less under tension. Worth the extra money. Now--think about the economy of pipe clamps. They are, by far, less expensive than any clamp that can exert that much pressure. They are versatile--just cut a piece of inexpensive pipe to the correct length, and you have a new clamp. I have 5 Bessey clamps, and they are fine, but frankly, for most applications, I find myself reaching for my Irwins, which exert more pressure and quickly change out to any length. And pipe clamps last forever. Two of my Besseys cracked after several years of use. I've never ruined a pipe clamp. In sum--for me at least, a non-threaded pipe clamp offers several advantages: no stripped threads, easy dissassembly, quick pipe changeovers. These clamps also sit high enough so that you can put them anywhere on the workbench and have room to rotate the screw end, so they don't have to hang over the end of the bench. Nice fit and finish, well-aligned pipe holes, snug screwing mechanism--no complaints.

Needed this for re-slinging some chairs. I could have purchased locally, but I found a much better deal (as always) on Amazon. I ORIGINALLY bought this as I THOUGHT I could make a "Spreader" out of this (which you can if you try), but it is not very effective functionally. As it turned out, I still did NEED these to re-sling the chairs. Based on my chair design, I DID/DO need to use them as a "clamp" (as this is intended to work) to pull two sling rails slightly together where a solid welded brace holds the rails together. The spreader?... Well I did a lot of research on options at a reasonable price due to the use I would get out it and I came to the conclusion to use a twelve dollar bottle jack (that I could buy here on Amazon). With a minor modification, I could use it as my spreader, then use the jack afterward for other uses

I've used this several times since buying it. A lot of woodworker's say that these will flex a bit (or the pipe will) under a lot of pressure and you're better off getting 3/4". Well...that may be true, but these work really well for what they are, too. I don't use the 1/2" ones to glue up panels. Mostly for smaller things that don't require a lot of pressure. Also, the 3/4" ones are quite a bit heavier than the 1/2", so it's nice to have some lighter weight on smaller items. The differences between these Irwin's and Bessey are that the Bessey has larger feet. Also, one clamp end is threaded to go on the pipe. The Irwin clamps are both "quick" release style. This could be good or bad depending on how you look at it. I haven't had either of them slip on me, but like I said, I don't use these for things that need a lot of clamping force. Price wise, they're really only worth getting over the 3/4" if you actually want something lighter in weight versus the 3/4". If you don't care about the weight, probably just go with the 3/4" since they're so close in price.

I did not have to purchase a threaded pipe. Instead I repurposed a water pipe piece. Saving some money. It is very smooth works great for me.

These pipe clamps are well made, easy to use, perfect for wide clamping with any length of half inch pipe. Should last a hundred years.

I have a number of pipe clamps. This is the best of the lot. Spreads or clamps. Excellent!

Nice clamps worth $

Having read the varied reviews I was concerned these clamps might not lock well enough onto the pipe. However, I took the plunge anyway and was pleased to find they work perfectly and lock solidly. The only caveat being using the correct minimum external diameter pipe is essential. If used with pipes much less than 27mm external diameter, the blind (handled) clamp end will not lock properly onto the pipe because the clamp's locking plates are held off the pipe by the clamp body. This is not a design defect as using too small a pipe would allow the clamp faces to misalign under pressure. If unsure do not be deterred, these are excellent well made and finished clamps. I am delighted with mine.

الي يميزة عن البراندات الثانية انك مو لازم تسوي له اسنان للماصورة خذ اي ما صورة بالمقاس انش الا ربع و على طول ينربط فيها ممتاز جدا والماركة غنية عن التعريف

Ich besitze schon ähnliches Produkt, das ist aber viel hochwertiger. Die 3/4 passen tatsächlich auf das 3/4 Rohr

ADQUIRI DOS PIEZAS Y ME HAN RESULTADO MUY UTILES, SON DE BUENA CALIDAD Y SOPORTA MUCHA PRESION PARA APRETAR SON ERGONOMICOS Y SU PRECIO LO VALE, LO RECOMIENDO AMPLIAMENTE,

Ordered the 1/2" version of a popular design simple clamping-system. Having done some research into the Pony and other import variants, this one was equally priced to a fair 'import' one. First-off I must say that it IS a great clamp and is well made and packaged. The things that I feel let it down are as follows...... i) The 1/2" hole sizes are 'generous' for gas-pipe and could have better tolerances. ii) Most other pipe clamps have a 'fixed' head. That is to say the pipe screws into the clamping head end and is fixed (non-adjustable) These aren't and given that there is no through-hole, there is no benefit. In fact the excessive tolerance between the head and the pipe makes for a 'loose' feel and sometimes it's hard to align the jaws of both ends because the clamp-head end rotates on the pipe. If I had to do it all again, I'd go with a pipe-clamp that had a threaded clamp-head, just to know that when I picked it up I didn't inadvertently touch the release mechanism and have the clamp-head end fall off. I may just drill out the clamp-head end to become a through-hole. At least that way I can adjust the opening of the clamp from the clamp-head end by sliding it further down the pipe. All that said, they do work well, just poorly thought out for OCD engineers like me.