CUT50D

the reviews and youtube videos on these low cost plasma cutters gave me some serious concerns everything from air leaks and loose connections to failure to cut at all ,no pilot arc and bad switches .happily the unit i received had none of these issues set up was easy it was assembled except for hooking up the regulator . the tubing provided fit well and was more then long enough . the cables seem to be quality. the gun is easy to handle and the switch is so far reliable , the ground clamp grips solidly and the cable is attached well but is shorter then the main cable so far hasn't been a problem the power cord is as most of the reviews mention quite short . the pressure gauge has 2 scales neither of which is psi . the unit is light and has a good handle . as for how it works ..great cuts well the pilot arc makes starting cuts even away from the edge easy I have so far cut steel from 1/16 to 3/16 thick as well as copper and aluminum all with no problem I will be cutting some thicker metals soon . so overall I like this thingseems a good value and works great

And if you spend a little more on accessories, you can have a decent hobbyist welding/cutting setup.I found a couple reviews very helpful. One, by NeedaBeer, talked about some internal assembly flaws. You can look for his review for those details. However, as soon as I got the machine I opened it up to look for those and any other assembly issues. I only found one that NeedaBeer found, and attached a picture of it. That wiring bundle being pointed to comes up to the top circuit board from below through a slot in the board and under a sheet metal shield. That's pretty thing sheet metal and it makes contact with the wires. That could cause short circuits if the shield cuts into a wire or two over time. Vibration can do that. So I placed a short piece of clear vinyl tubing, that I had lying around, around the wire bundle to protect them.The only other assembly flaw was with the power cord where it enters the machine. There's a snap grommet to relieve strain and clamp the cable, and that grommet was loose. Just tightening the nut on the inside part of the grommet took care of that. I didn't see any other problems. Everything else was tied up fine,no parts touching other parts, etc. Maybe their Quality Control got better. Or maybe different assemblers are more or less attentive to detail. I'm glad I opened it up to check.I'm not thrilled with the stick (MMA) welding cables. For one thing, they're too short. The work clamp cable is only 6 ft long and the stick cable is maybe 7 ft. This only works well if your welder will be on the bench in front where you're welding. On top of that, I really question the cable thickness.The work clamp cable is only 10 sq-mm (6 AWG), which is not suitable for 200 Amps. You need 2 AWG for 200 Amps. The stinger cable was thicker, at 25 sq-mm (4 AWG), which is better, but not suitable. I got this welder to replace my old one, so I'll be using the cables from that one on my new welder. They're longer, too, so it works out fine.It's nice that the welder came with both the Argon and air regulators. The air regulator is also a filter/dryer. But that air regulator uses metric units, where the user manual talks uses PSI. I had to make a plasma cutting chart of steel thicknesses and their Amps and pressure, because I couldn't find one with MPa, only PSI. That was simple enough, though. The only other thing I need to do is plumb the air pressure gauge so that I can see it from the front of the machine. It's would be annoying in my setup to pull the welder out every time I wanted to adjust the pressure.This is a mult-process machine (TIG and Plasma), but to save money, there is only one air/gas inlet. The manual even suggests that if you switch back and forth between TIG and Plasma, you should add some plumbing to be able to switch (with valves) from one to the other. Without that, you'll be unscrewing a hose clamp, pulling the tubing from a barb fitting, putting the other tube onto the barb, and screwing that clamp tight. I didn't even try it in that configuration and went for the valve plumbing, which you can see in the second picture. That's about $40 of valves, fittings, and pipe nipples. A better way would be to use a two-way valve instead of my two valves plus Tee, but this is what Home Depot had available. The only other thing I want to do is plumb the pressure gauge to reposition it, as I mentioned earlier.And - finally - Does it work? Yes it does, and very well. I can't vouch for reliability, as I've only done some quick test welding and cutting, but all three function work great. My old welder didn't have the arc starter that this one does for TIG, and I love it. My previous welder was only a DC stick machine, which I cludged together a setup to use a TIG torch. This is soooo much better. I got a foot pedal at the same time and I know I'll get addicted to that.I've never used a plasma cutter before, so my test cuts look horrible. But the thing cuts great, so I know I only need to work on the current/pressure settings and my technique (mostly my technique).So, all in all, for the money, I think this is a good welding/cutting setup.

Great welder. Ships fast and had all parts and instructions. Plasma cutter works great with supplied parts (tips, gaurd) but it would be nice if the description also included item or part numbers for replacement tips and other consumables. I have not used the TIG welder yet but will soon. Best to due as instructed by manufacturer and get a 3 way L style 1/4" npt valve to quickly switch between cyclinder gas and compressed air. They include all brackets and hose you need, you just have to buy the valve and a 1/4" male to male fitting to install. Only complaint was the air regulator/filter combo unit slowly leaked air out of the overflow vent hole during use. It was a common air regulator so I just bought another one that fit instead of hassling the company about it.

Bought this plasma cutter after reading all the good reviews. Worked okay up to 20 Amps cutting when turned up to 50 amps cutting it would work for 10 seconds then blow my garage breaker (20amps @110v) I tried multiple circuits with the same results. I returned the first one and the replacement unit worked for 10 seconds popped the breaker and now it turns on but doesn't cut at all. The unit says the input is single-phase @ 100-250v @ 18 Amps. Never indicated any faults and the little yellow "O.C." light never came on either of them.

This is an amazing tool for the money. The pictures I uploaded are from a 1/4 thick piece of steel. I used a straight edge and the cuts turned out nice. In my opinion the cuts went pretty fast too. I'm not an expert and I only do hobby projects. I'm not sure how this would stand up to daily abuse. The 1/4" steel I cut was pretty intense at 4 cuts within about 10 minutes. It showed no signs of problems.The setup was pretty easy and you need an air compressor. The tubing that it came with doesn't make a great seal, but even if it leaks it works just fine.Great buy! I would definitely buy it again.