Low Cost, Low Volume Resist, Electrically Conductive Silver Epoxy Adhesive, AA-Duct 906, 2.5gm kit

Did not think it would be enough to do anything with but its stronger than anything at the store with 1/3 the application, very easy to mix, let it cure for 24 hours with no issues great quality epoxy.

I bought this earlier in the week and mixed as instructed by it never hardened. I thought it must be me so I ordered another which arrived today. I noticed that one side of the epoxy pouch was full of the silver component but the other side only has 1 drop of hardener. I’d say it’s a 1:10 ratio on qty. Usually epoxy is 1:1. Missing hardener would definitely cause problems!

The solder had broken lose on the rear window defroster of my Jeep Wrangler. The jeep dealer wanted $235 to repair it. I checked with my regular mechanic and he was afraid he would damage the window trying to resolder it. Since I wouldn't pay the jeep dealer the unreasonable price I started checking around for other alternatives and found this silver conductive glue and decided to give it a try. Long story short it worked great.BE SURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS THAT COMES WITH THE GLUE!!!!After preparing the glue I applied a small amount on a small piece of cardboard to let it cure some (let it get a little tacky). In the case of my Wrangler there is a small button that can detach from the wire so that made it much easier to glue and hold with the tacky glue. I used a toothpick to apply the glue which prevented any major mess. I didn't have to use any tape as the glue held fine after I pressed it in place with the toothpick for a couple of minutes. If tape is needed to hold in place I would recommend blue tape. Be sure you wait the full 24 hours to let the glue completely cure.I highly recommended this product.

Product worked well. Had a older wrapped wire reostat that the wire broke and as such broke the circuit. Used material as directed to paint over the top of the wire and the substrate the wire was wrapped on. Used home made kitchen clay (2 parts baking soda + 1 part corn starch, add water and heat until thickened) formed a dike around the broken area, used broken tooth pick to fill the dike and coat the area of concern.The unmixed base material was not conductive. Mixed material did not become conductive until it started hardening. Sped up hardening by preheating item in 150 F oven and returning after treatment. Cured in about an hour and used razor blade to remove excess epoxy material from unwanted areas.Issue was not enough technical information was available. Had to figure it out myself through experimental design, so took much longer.

Product arrived as shown in picture, a small see-through, rectangular pouch with two compartments. One side was a clear liquid, the other a silver powder. They were separated by a sealed barrier. I prepped the work area with my tools: fine grit sandpaper, acetone for glass prep, paramedic scissors, a small piece of paper to mix it on and a heat gun. I sanded the copper traces and cleaned the area with acetone. Then I squeezed the pouch, piercing the internal barrier. I kneaded the liquid into the powder with my fingers. I worked the mixture until it was a slow moving paste. The previous tab had been ripped off by a bad tinting job, so there was copper missing from the rear glass. To solve this, I purchased a thin copper shim from the internet. The shim was twice the surface area of the missing glass copper. So, prior to the defroster repair, I soldered a small wire(the same diameter as the power supply wire)to the shim. I then applied the paste to the bottom of the copper shim in a heavy bead. I pushed the tab against the window and held it up with a small wooden dowel. With the other hand, I focused hot air with a heat gun directly on the copper shim. I held it there for approx. 5 to 7 minutes. I removed the heat, then continued to hold the copper shim against the glass. I placed some duct tape over the shim and wire and left it overnight. I came out the next day and removed the duct tape. The epoxy had hardened to the consistency of concrete. I placed the wire tab into the connection of the power wire and turned on the defroster. Success!!!

Reattached the (originally) soldered on connector to rear window defogger glass. Not used to trying to mix epoxy within a sealed package, but it seemed to work ok, just too early to tell after 1 week. The amount provided seems insufficient to complete even the smallest projects.

Rear window electric heater defroster grid repair. This is a one time use that is a permanent repair and electrically conductive, suitable for your rear window defroster.The electric tab broke off from its adhesive at the window, leaving a slightly rough surface at the window and on the metal tab. I sanded the back of the metal tab with 120 grit to make it about 90% flat.Very careful and slowly sand the area that the tab is to be reattached to, also with 120 grit the repair area is about a half inch square and you need that 90% flat and the epoxy will fill in the gaps and firmly reattach the tab permanently. Don’t sand outside the area or damage any of the grid lines as this will all be visible when your repair is completeVery carefully apply a strip of sensitive surface blue painters tape over the repaired tab and let it sit in the sun for 24 hours as the heat will help cure. Don’t try to reattach the wire yet, wait 24 hours, and when you take the blue painters tape off, if it doesn’t move, you did everything right and you can reattach the connector this is electrically conductive edit will fix your defroster if the broken tab what is the problem