SZCO Supplies 40.5” Hand Forged Carbon Steel Rustic Broad Sword with Leather Wrapped Handle, Black/Brown (901132)

Excellent, inexpensive crusader sword. Solid, real iron. Not fancy, more like an average foot soldier’s weapon. Great wall hanger or cosplay item. Has the feel of a real weapon. When reading about the Middel Ages, I like to pick it up to get a sense of the times.

It's a full tang sword. That means the sword is a solid piece through guard, handle and into the pommel where it's peened.The grip covering is a cheap piece of leather helded by 4 push pins. You can pry the pins out with a blade and some pliers.The grip is too round and thick to be comfortable, so I removed it.The grip itself is just rounded pieces of wood held by two pins that are hammered into rivets.There are probably better tools to remove the pins, but I made do with some flush cutters.Just remove the wood bit by bit around the pin. Then use flush cutters to trim the pins down slowly.The pins are aluminum, softer than steel, so its doable if you nibble tiny bits at a time.Once the bulge is removed, you can tap the pin out with a 3/16 punch.It took a few passes and some patience.Both the guard and pommel are welded poorly.Matters more for the guard since mine got loose after some light use.You can weld it yourself, fill it with solder, JB weld or shim it.Since it's $30 sword. JB Weld worked nicely. Very solid after filling the gaps.If you're good with wood, it should be easy to fashion a simple grip.I'm better with CAD, so I just designed a set of grips to print.#8x1 inch screws work. Needs to be a millimeter shorter, but a file made quick work.#10 screws would probably be better if you drilled and tapped the holes.Need to test for a bit before adding loctite or clear nail polish.I plan to reuse the leather and push pins since it's a $30 sword.But you could always get a nice tennis leather grip wrap.Although very sloppily put together, it's a real sword, not fake junk.Note, very blunt.Its like 45 degree edge (total 90) or more, so safe for handling, but will cave in anything with a heavy blow.If you want a sharp edge, a Fiskars Axe sharpener will give it 30 degrees which is sharp but sturdy.Better to leave it as is, unless you need the edge.Very heavy for one handed, but even two handed, will tax grip strength if you use full strength.I recommend watching "Strong Wrists + Grip Workout for Swords" first.There is no reason to get a sword, but you get to live your childhood fantasies. Plus, it's more fun than regular exercise.

The media could not be loaded. For the price I can’t really knock this sword too much. Got it as something to experiment with. All in all a solid sword which seems to be peened in the pommel with a wide tang from other photos. Can’t speak to the durability as I’ve not really tested that. All in all decent base sword but I thought needed some work. I felt the blade was too long and took off 5 inches for a 28 inch blade by the end with a balance I like. This makes a better arming sword than long sword. Quality control is ok but for the price can’t expect much. I cut 5 inches off the blade with a steel cutting dremel. Used a ball peen hammer and small anvil to hammer the blade straight from the small warps that came with it. Now looks and feels pretty good. Love the rustic look of it. Not the sword of a king but your everyday man shipped off to fight in the holy land. I’d have killed for a sword like this as a kid and at the price point I’m all for making swords like this widely available to people of all budgets.

In my quest for a training longsword, I happened upon this sword. For HEMA practitioners, and students learning the European Martial Arms Arts, particularly the Western European Longsword: consider this humble, inexpensive, high-carbon, full-tang longsword. If you are seeking a decent practical practice-longsword and are discouraged by the high costs of wooden, polypropylene, and high carbon steel federshwert practice swords; then check this rustic broadsword out. Under $40.00 (less than most poly-pro, or wooden practice swords), and certainly less than expensive HEMA -qualified federschwerts (at usually over $225.00), this baby rocks! It is durable: actual high carbon steel, basically unsharpened upon arrival (you can further blunt or hone it if need be), and heavy at around 4 pounds. You'll locate the POB (point of balance) about 6-inches north of the cross guard. Yes, it is a bit blade-heavy, and yes, it is heavy in general for a longsword: however, this is all perfect for training! The extra weight will help you greatly in stamina and strength, as, after training with this sword an actual longsword (around 3-pounds+) feels like a feather! The high carbon steel blade is 32-inches long. From pommel to cross guard is a tad under 8-inches. The pommel and cross guard are steel (not a wooden pommel, as one reviewer commented): and the wooden over-steel handle is wrapped in strip-leather, which is actual bovine-leather (not faux-leather, as another reviewer commented). In many of the historical MS. (manuscripts) left to posterity by the likes of Fiore dei Liberi, Hans Tolhoffer, Johannes Liechtenauer, and others; there is advocacy for training with real swords. Some even advocate training with actual sharpened swords. I can see the wisdom in that; as you're not likely to make the same mistakes twice (perchance because you've lost a finger or an eye). Since I don't actually want to kill my training partner, I won't train with sharpened swords, but actual swords, yes! There is a vast selection of real steel training swords, dulled, and combat ready. However, you will find these swords cost every bit as much as their actual real sword counterparts, if not more! This rugged broadsword is my solution, and I believe I chose well. Even though I take the advice of many old school fight book master's as per training with actual swords: I also strongly advocate all the safety-equipment needed. HEMA gloves: or padded, thick leather gauntlets; as well as a fencing helmet, chest, and arm protection, too. Motto: Real Training-Real Safety! For those who would say to NEVER train with actual swords for safety fears; I suggest enrolling in Badminton, or Crocheting, rather than fencing. This is a martial art form, and in my opinion, this sword is a perfect trainer. Buyers: please note that this is a high carbon sword, and as such it requires maintenance like all good real swords. This entails keeping the sword dry and moisture free. When not in use a light coating of oil should be applied. Even motor oil will work, but there are many oil products made especially for swords, knives, and plate armor. For the more experienced swordsman and swordswoman; this inexpensive sword has a high potential for customization! If you want a sword to customize, and are terrified of destroying a $250.00 mid-line sword: this baby has a lot of potential in that area! So fence on, warriors! Get the feel of real steel!

I've now owned this for a year, and it was an excellent purchase for the price. It cuts very well, and it's never shown signs of poor craftsmanship or durability. It is truly a beautiful sword whether you want it as a prop or something that can actually do what a sword should do. The only qualm I have is that the pommel is not quite as dense/large as it should be, raising the center of balance to about 3-4 inches above the hilt, which can feel a little awkward compared to nicer swords, but again, for under 40 dollars, it is an amazing purchase.