Wireless Garage Door Opener Remote WiFi Switch Universal Controlled by Smartphone for Automatic Gate Opener System (Without Door Sensor)

I agree with a previous review. I was going to give 4 stars but price is great and functionality is excellent. Deserves 5 stars. Here's another lengthy review, but hopefully it will save you some time and frustration when you set it up in your garage. Overall, the LT3 device is very versatile. You can configure it to control 1 door or up to 3. I used it for my garage which has 2 doors. You have to be able to do a little bit of tinkering to set it up, but it isn't too difficult (especially when there are reviews like this). I have 2 Genie openers, but you can use this LT3 on almost any brand that has a standard 2-wire push button. Here are some highlights of my installation. I hope it helps you. 1. I have 2 existing wall buttons, one for each door. The LT3 device can replace those, but it requires power, and it has a funky shape not too conducive to be placed into any standard electrical or switch box. I decided to leave my wall buttons alone and use the LT3 device purely for connecting to WiFi and for remote access via the phone. This saves some frustration in running power to the wall switches (and the unsightly power cable). I placed the LT3 on top of one of the garage door openers, and AC power is readily available where the opener plugs in. I know that I won't get to push the nice LT3 buttons, but I already have working wall buttons so it's no big loss. Also, my Genie wall switch has a separate button for the light and a lock switch. So it makes sense to leave those intact. 2. You can use either AC or DC to power the LT3. I chose to use low voltage DC because the LT3 will essentially just sit on top of my opener motor, not in an electrical box. I don't want 110V AC running to it and then accidentally shocking myself. I found an old 12V DC power adapter for something I don't even remember, and just cut off the connector at the end and stripped the wires. Plug it in and use a volt meter to figure out which wire is positive and hook it to the RED LT3 wire. The other negative/ground wire goes onto the black LT3 wire (you'll also use the black LT3 wire for open/close detection). Secure the wires with small wire nuts or electrical tape. If you don't have a spare 12VDC adapter, you can buy one from Goodwill or used electronics store for cheap. Make sure you use a physically small power adapter. Since the outlet is on the ceiling, a bulky adapter could fall out of the socket from its own weight. If you want to use AC power, that's fine. Just find any old 2 prong extension cord and cut off the end, and strip the wires. The AC wires go into L/N sockets on the LT3. Know that the screws are unprotected, so it could be a shock hazard. 3. You will want the Smart Life app. I already had it to control some smart plugs in the house. Once you have Smart Life set up and registered, you can press the "+" key to add a new device. Scroll down all the way and choose Other Products. It will then wait for a connection. Power up the LT3 and hold the Button C for 10 seconds until the wifi symbol blinks. You should now see the device on your Smart Life app. Once connected you can click to the 3 big buttons on the app screen, and the "gate open" status at the bottom. You can edit the name of each button (see my photo) as well as the LT3 itself. I called the LT3 "garage controller" and Button A is "big garage door" while Button B is "small garage door". 4. Unplug the garage door opener while you are wiring. I used a spool of 20 gauge bell wire (twisted red/white solid copper) to do all my connections. It was about $10 for 100 ft. But you can use any low voltage wire that you have handy. Old telephone wire works too. 5. Find where the wall button connects to the garage opener motor. For most openers, there are 2 wires coming from the wall button and goes into 2 contacts on the motor housing. Run 2 wires from the LT3's Com / A ports to these same 2 connections. If you want to control a second or third garage door, you will have to run 2 wires from Com / B (and Com / C) to the second and third garage doors. I ran these wires into the attic and down to the other opener, but you can also just staple it to the ceiling. 6. Once you have the buttons wired, plug in the garage door openers to test. Mine worked pretty much on the first try. Make sure your wall buttons still work, your app buttons work, and any remotes in your car or homelink buttons in the cars still work. If you have a light button on the wall switch, make sure that still works too. 7. I use Google home to connect to Smart Life. If you already had Smart Life connected to Google home, you will have to disconnect it and then reconnect in order for Google home to find the new garage door controller. To operate the doors, say "OK Google, turn ON big garage door", or whatever you named the button. Google Home at least at this time doesn't understand "open" or "close", but you can say "turn on" to toggle open and close. It is just like physically pressing the wall buttons. 8. Now the dreaded (and desired) open/close status. First, you will need to buy a reed switch or magnetic sensor to detect open/closed status. These are 2 part switches, where one half has a reed switch sensor, and the other half is a magnet that triggers the sensor. They are used in home security systems to detect window open/close and they are very affordable. I bought 2 for $8. If your garage door opener already has limit switches (either mechanical contact or magnetic reed switches), they likely cannot also be used for the LT3. Save yourself some tinkering and just buy the additional reed switches. You will need one for each door you want to detect open/closed status. I chose to mount them on the rail and carriage of the opener (see pictures). Or you can mount them on the door and front wall. The sensor part is attached permanently to the rail and doesn't move. The magnet is attached to the carriage and moves. When they line up, the 2 wires marked Common and NC (normally closed) are shorted. You will want to use these contacts for the LT3's green and black wires. 9. The LT3 can open and close 3 separate doors independently, but it has only 1 open/close status indicator. What I did to get around this limitation is to wire all the open/close reed switches in a series. I figured the only time I need to check the open/close status is when I am away from home. And in almost all cases, I just want to know that all garage doors are closed. Wiring the reed switches in a series ensures that the green / black wires are shorted (and app says "gate closed") only if ALL doors are closed. App will say "gate open" if ANY door is open. You will have to figure out which one is open by pressing a combination of the buttons. For most of you, you will use one door more often than the others, so it won't be hard. With 2 doors, it only takes a maximum of 3 tries to make sure both are closed remotely. With 3 doors, it's a maximum of 7 combinations. Not ideal, but since there is only 1 open/close status indicator, this is the only way to do it. It is still better than not knowing whether you left any of the garage doors open. Hope this helps someone. See attached wiring diagrams and pictures. Cheers.

I just installed this device and was so impressed by how well it works that I had to sit down and write a review. I rarely do this. 1. APPEARANCE - This is a well-made and attractive switch with touch-sensitive glass. There is a nice click sound for auditory feedback when a button is activated. 2. INSTALLATION - I Installed this device on my Viking gate opener. First I watched the installation video (on Amazon)and read the brief installation manual. Don't be put off by the narrator's accent or the awkward English in the manual. The directions are accurate. Follow them precisely. My gate opener did not have a wall switch, so I ran a double wire to its control board and connected it to COM and A ports on this device. As stated in the guide, repeatedly touching the two wires made my gate open, pause and close, so I knew that my gate was compatible with this device. I also chose to run another double wire from the gate opener's control board to supply DC power to this device. That's all. Button A on the device would now control my gate. 3. CONNECTING TO WIFI AND IPHONE APP. I held the C button for 10 seconds until the WIFI icon started flashing on the device, then the app quickly found the device. Now I could control my gate with the virtual buttons on my phone. There was no delay in signal transmission or WIFI connectivity issue. 4. CONNECTING TO ALEXA. If you plan to control your gate with Alexa, chances are you have already installed some Alexa-enabled smart switches and plugs in your home. In that case, chances are you already have the Smart Life app. In that case you can skip installing the app recommended the instruction guide and directly add this device to your Smart Life app as if it were just another light switch. Now the virtual gate opener buttons appear in your Smart Life app and you can operate your gate from that app. Furthermore, assuming you have already enabled the Smart Life skill in your Alexa account, your gate (under the name you assigned it in Smart Life) will now automatically appear in your Alexa app. Now you can say, "Alexa, turn on the [gate]" to open, pause or close your gate. For more intuitive functionality, I created "Open gate" and "Close gate" routines in Alexa, both of which turn on the gate button. Next to my Alexa-enabled fireplace, this is the coolest piece of home automation in my home yet.

Easy to install app does not have a share or give limited access

This device was relatively easy to install. I’m not sure why there is no wiring diagram. That would help a lot! The A and Com connections should be connected in parellel to the button wires A couple of notes: 1. You can use AC power- you have to supply your own cord or hardware the device to AC power. AC wiring connects via the screw terminals. OR You can use DC power connecting to the black and red wires coming out of the device. 2. This is a crazy form factor. I don’t know what they could have possibly been thinking when they designed this thing! It’s like a half height outlet box size. 3. Although my device works perfectly, every time I start the app, it wants to do a firmware upgrade. The firmware upgrade always fails, I never get it to work. If you accidentally consent to the firmware upgrade, the app is worthless for a couple minutes. This hasn’t happened yet, but I know someday I’ll be stuck in the driveway waiting for the darn thing to time out and fail trying to update. The app is pretty simple. You can label the buttons which is nice, but not the open/closed status light. So my button says Garage Door, but the status light says “Gate is closed”. Also it would be nice to be able to select the number of buttons the app shows between 1 and 3 Showing unused buttons is unnecessarily confusing. I really do like the unit and I’d happily buy another one. The only other device out there that lets you see open/close status is more than twice the price at $99.

I use this switch to control three garage doors and it works quite well. I took a suggestion from one of the other reviewers and wired sensors in a series so that the app will tell me if any garage door is open, but not which one(s). That's adequate as when that "Did I close the garage door?" feeling comes, I usually know which one I'm worried about. I flush mounted it directly to the drywall in the garage, without a box, and wired into the AC wiring. That works just fine. This s a very functional device that works well for my case. It was certainly the most economical solution that I could find. I am very happy with it. Update 4/11/2020 The opener is still working great. It's very convenient. I am now experiencing some odd behavior in the app. When a door is open, the app says "Gate is clsoed." That's not a typo. That's what it now says. And, when all of the doors are closed, the app says "Gate is open." The indicator on the wall unit is still working correctly as it always has (red light on - door open, red light off - doors closed). Everything in the garages checks out. I'm pretty sure this behavior is new and is in the app. I don't recall seeing any app updates, but I swear this spelling error and reverse signaling are recent. The app does not provide any way to correct this as far as I can tell. I am going to try contacting the vendor.