Because this tool crimps both insul and non-insul ferrules, why would someone buy the 1006 crimper?

Looks like the 1005 does insulated AND non-insulated terminals/connectors. Stamped on the end of the tool which to use (NON or INS). Where the 1006 does just non-insulated with one for 10-12 and the other for 14-22. Klein website makes it looks as if the 1005 NON and INS both accommodate 10-22. I opted for the 1005.

* the old us-made version are the world's finest! i've used them for decades. these from china don't crimp right. why did klein sell out?

I have not had any issues with these and they probably have a couple hundred crimps on them. I totally agree with you about Klein selling out and having these made in China but they are far superior to other crimpers I have used. They seem to have very good quality.

Every time i use crimpers, the plastic insulation on the terminal gets crushed, flattened, split and cracked; any way to do a good job?

This Klein crimper has two surfaces, the crimping surface with the more pronounced nub is more for non-insulated terminals, the flatter surface which is closer to the pivot point is for insulated terminals. With that said, the nubbier surface can also successfully crimp insulated ends and vice-versa. It depends on the quality of the insulation on the terminals and the material used to produce the terminal itself. I use these for both automotive DC and 120/240 AC both stranded and solid wire depending on the application. For the neatest job, use non-insulated terminals and apply heat shrink tubing to the terminal, then the crimped terminal is less obvious. DO NOT BUY CHEAP TERMINALS and you'll have better results. Lose wires cause fires which will allow all the smoke to escape your circuit.

Can you crimp metal ferrules for connecting 3/8” stainless wire?

No. They work great for automotive wiring. 12. 14. 16 gauge wire connectors

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