Birchwood Casey Fast-Drying Long-Lasting Water-Resistant Oil-Based Tru-Oil Stock Finish Bottle, 3 Ounce

I absolutely LOVE Birchwood Casey's TruOil! I've used it on gun stocks, knife handles and even expensive guitar parts (bodies & necks) with incredible results! It's a fantastic, easy-to-apply, transparent hardening finish that levels very well, cures fully in just a few days and can be applied by sponge, rag or truly "by hand" with your fingers. There's even have an aerosol version available that works very well for larger, flat surfaces! My personal favorite is the bare hand technique...I finished the guitar neck in the picture below by rubbing the coats in with my fingers and lightly sanding between the coats. Built up quickly and came out great! Fewer and thinner coats will create a more satin finish, while more generous application and/or an increased number of coats can develop a deep gloss finish that rivals most professional sprayed finishes for depth and smoothness! TruOil dries harder than most polymerized varnishes, making it very durable and wear resistant, but if it is ever damaged, it is easily repaired by sanding lightly and adding additional layers of TruOil or spot finishing if the area is small enough. Furthermore, TruOil is one of the more transparent finishes out there (very minimal tinting effect on lighter woods) and it really makes figured wood grain "pop" visually in ways that wipe-on poly and similar finishes don't. It also goes a long way, so a small bottle can easily do a couple gun stocks or other wooden parts. All in all, TruOil is among the best looking, most durable and easiest to work with DIY finishes out there! Highly recommended!

First of all this is a great product. I highly recommend it! I’m using it to finish a guitar I’m building and finding tons of conflicting information on how to use Tru-oil. Maybe this is due to its popularity + everybody has an opinion. I heard one guy on YouTube say it was not self leveling. First of all, forget self leveling. Self leveling sounds great but is very misleading. Tru-oil is as self leveling as anything out there. Think of it as a very thinned out polyurethane that you apply in super thin coats. It consists of 56% mineral paint thinners, 33% oil varnish, and also 11% linseed or Tung oil, again as self leveling as anything else. OK, so considering all the above, in order to get the smoothest shiniest finish I apply Tru-oil in very, thin coats and sand between each coat with 1000 – 7000 grit sandpaper or above (because of the possibility of a raised wood grain I used 320 - 400 grit sandpaper after the first coat only). Even after using the polishing grits (1000 grit & above) of sandpaper between coats there was no problem with coats not sticking to each other (delaminating) I put on enough coats until it looks professional, even & shiny (usually between 15 and 30). So far I’ve been applying (rubbing in) the coats with my bare fingers as it says in the instructions). I stop rubbing the finish in when it still looks smooth yet starts to pull on my hands the tiniest bit. I don’t rub the coats until it’s sticky and pulling as some people suggest. Quite honestly, I think the sanding between coats to get rid of imperfections is the most important thing, along with a very long cure time (2 weeks to a month) before buffing. Also note: I read a negative review before purchasing this product. The negative review said that it didn’t truly cure and a way to test this was to put masking or duct tape on the finish and wait for about 20 minutes and pull the tape off. I tried this on my tests & found that the tape didn’t affect the finish at all. Just as shiny as ever (I was expecting a tiny bit of residue with the duct tape but even that was beyond minimal) & no delaminating at all. Take note that I all my Tru-oil tests were done over dyed wood on Flamed Maple. Final thoughts. The wood you are working with must be perfectly sanded before using tru-oil. I go up through the grits ending up with 320 – 400 for my final grit before staining and applying the tru-oil finish. In my experiments over the past few months, I found that thinning with gum turpentine or mineral spirits was not necessary. In fact I found that thinning with gum turpentine dulled the final results a bit.

Works good for repairing and redoing gun stocks...not that great for snakeskin.!!!!!

Followed directions. Went on easy. Dried pretty quick. Great finish.

Realmente es fácil de aplicar y se obtiene un buen acabado. En mi caso lo utilice para repintar el cuello de una guitarra eléctrica y me ha gustado mucho como quedo. Por otra parte es bastante rendidor.

仕上がった後もベタつきも無くとても綺麗に仕上がりました

Have used this on two walnut gunstock and multiple knife handles. With multiple coats and fine sanding you can achieve very nice high gloss finish. Or satin finish with fewer coats. Dries quickly and not too smelly. Highly recommend. Thier gun blue works very well too.

I just followed the instructions and it worked perfectly. Very good product!!!

人気なのが分かります。匂いもキツくないしムラになりにくいのも良い。蓋は独特なので壊さないように気をつけて下さい。中蓋も爪楊枝で穴を開けるだけにしないと揮発するので注意。海外の人によるとしっかり空気を抜いて閉めればかなり長持ちするみたいです。パラフィルムやラボピタなどを1cm角に切って、空気を抜いてから、空けた穴にぺったりと吸いつくよう張り付かせて密閉し、蓋をすると良いかと思います。