VHT Flameproof Coating Very High Heat Clear (Satin Finish)

Used this as a top coat for a drip torch, it sits close to the fire and takes heat and gas/diesel mix with zero issues, excellent product.

Painted surface continues to perform well on my aluminum intake manifold

so far so good. had to cure it to get the coats so that a scrape would not peel it off. cured to the 400 degree temp, 600 degrees is the final cure temp... the 30min cure time, the Misses was not going to allow it. the VHT ACTUALLY SANDED AND BUFFED to a glass gloss finish. when dry its scent less, not so when shooting it. This product is worth the time and money spent utilizing it.

My Project: Respraying an exhaust manifold. (Manifold surface was blasted) Products used: VHT SP118 Flat White Primer, VHT SP102 Flat Black Paint, VHT SP115 Satin Clear Coat. Review of Product: VHT SP115 Satin Clear Coat This product worked very well and left a very nice satin finish on top of VHT Flat Black Paint (VHT SP102). Product was of good quality for value. This clear coat was applied to my exhaust manifold in an outdoor area with very little wind <5mph and humidity <15%. I applied this product 24 hours after paint, starting with a very light rough coat. I waited 15 minutes, then applied a wet finish coat, waited until it appeared to be setting about 10mins and then touched up hard to get areas. I had no problem with the clear coat having runs. I allowed 7 days for dry cure, and I followed the manufacturers instruction for curing the paint when on the vehicle. Has been 2 weeks and no sign of the paint burning off. I have driven the vehicle 750-1000 miles during this time. Had half can leftover. Manifold was hung and suspended during paint.

I bought this clear high temp paint not knowing what to expect but I am very pleased with it thus far. I used it on a pressure washer that I restored for a friend and unexpectedly he had to pick the pressure washer up the same day I painted it. I was expecting the heat to trash the paint but it didn't. The paint held up even though it had no time to cure. Very surprised indeed. I've painted a lot and VHT is a good choice when you have parts that get exposed to heat. Since that time I've used it on my Honda Goldwing valve covers and no peeling or wrinkles so I would say that it's a very good product for the money.

Excellent protective coating for new aluminum castings

I purchased this paint for the Carbon Fiber Hood for my car. It actually worked really well. I only spent about 2 hours sanding the hood down (100 grit dry, and then 200 grit wet) and then over the course of two days put several coats on the hood. I'd say I ended up using 5 cans total. So far it has not started to peel, turn white, or suffer from UV/heat damage. So far this clear coat has worked out much better than the NAPA clear.

I was attempting to use satin clear over silver on a set of brake discs. The clear yellowed during curing. May be good for darker colors, but don’t put it over lighter colors. Read below: Porsche did a fabulous job at leaving exposed paint on the rotors of my cayman that left a gross ring, and left a gray primer on the rest of the top hat that stained and just looked dirty. I used krylon high temp silver (rated at 1200) and wanted to finish with the satin clear. The surface was prepped with a drill and metal bristle, and sandblasted where the wire brush couldn’t reach. It was then dusted off, then sprayed with brake parts cleaner and wiped, and then allowed to dry thoroughly to leave a decontaminated bare metal. Krylon high temp silver was applied in two coats following directions and allowed appropriate dry time (one hour). Two coats of VHT satin clear were then applied and allowed about one hour dry time. Then it went into the oven at 250 for 25min (directions call for 20, but I wanted to wager time for the cooled rotor to warm). After 40 minutes cool time (directions call for 30), rotor was still warm, but then returned to the oven at 400 for 35 minutes (directions call for 20). After about 45 minutes cool time (directions call for 30), it was returned to 550 (the hottest my electric oven will allow, directions call for 600) for 40 minutes (directions call for 30). The rotors had a great satin clear over silver that came out after 400 and looked amazing, and I was excited. The last step of the cure yellowed them, and now I’m not so excited. I cooled them, too, just in case. No luck. It’s not ridiculously yellow, but yellow enough that it wasn’t what I aimed for, and on my white Porsche, it really stands out. I don’t know how they can claim the temp that they do when it yellows during a cure temp below what’s called for, and way below limits. Tomorrow I’ll strip them and do them without the clear. The silver doesn’t have a requirement for clear, I just thought it might look better and more durable. If you want to blame the silver or the prep work, I would have to disagree, but this is my process and opinion...keep it on darker colors where yellowIng won’t show.