

🛡️ Restore, don’t replace—because your gear deserves a second chance!
Loctite Naval Jelly is a heavy-duty rust dissolver designed for iron, steel, and ferrous metals. It works quickly within 5 to 10 minutes, removing rust and bluing while leaving an optional protective black oxide coating. Its water-soluble formula ensures easy cleanup, and it can be applied by brush or spray on a variety of metal surfaces including tools, grills, cars, and outdoor furniture. Trusted for over 40 years, it’s the go-to solution for professionals and DIYers aiming to restore rather than replace rusted metal.






| ASIN | B000C016OC |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |
| Best Sellers Rank | #872,240 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #672 in Care Corrosion & Rust Inhibitors #8,386 in Oils & Fluids |
| Color | Brown |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (2,694) |
| Date First Available | August 17, 2005 |
| Included Components | Hardware; Glue;wood-fill |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Item Weight | 1.15 pounds |
| Item model number | 553472 |
| Manufacturer | Henkel |
| Material | Metal |
| Part Number | 553472 |
| Product Dimensions | 2.75 x 6.94 x 2.75 inches |
| Size | 16 Fluid Ounce |
| Warranty Description | Warranty |
P**R
Best rust remover for tools
Leaves a preventive black oxide coating behind that can be left or removed as desired. I use it to restore heavily rusted saw blades, chisels, table surfaces, and other tools with heavily pitted surfaces. The gel gets under the oxidation right to the steel/iron to lift away the oxidation and protect the base metal. Fast and efficient, rarely need to use a second application. Great stuff!
R**R
Will work on concrete
So far on my drive way I have tryed CLR, Liquid Plumber (generic), beach, scrubbing bubbles and a pressure washer. The CLR barely lightened it up BUT it did help a little. The liquid plumber was about the same as the CLR but seemed to etch or calcify the concrete its self... still not enough. Bleach was useless and so was scrubbing bubbles. So, I did a test spot of this product, right in the worse of it. WOW. It seemed to get about 85-90% of the rust color out. Concrete was dry, brushed on a decent but not too thick layer and let it work for about half an hour or more. I hope the rest of the rust stain/sheen can look the same. A car battery overheated/exploded and as a result, the dripping volatile and caustic chemicals got on the driveway and washed down the driveway. It looks like rusty melted icecream all the way down (about 20 feet). Im confident that this product is the best one ive tryed so far. Not even close. I may need a 2nd bottle to get every last part off.
A**R
16 oz locktite naval jelly.
This worked well, as I remembered it would. I've used this "stuff" off and on across years of projects. It's also a component in the old "rust converter" products - the smell is an indicator. Anyway - if stick to the directions and don't apply to thin (thin will dry within 10mins pending your environment, low humidity, etc.) you'd need to apply more to then remove it. One would not want to allow it to "harden" - just making work for yourself there. So, I choose this for a more "delicate" project to remove, medium-light, medium, to speckeled rust on some old Blades. There could be a small, e.g., 1/4 to 1/2 " spot, but not like a dug in and to flake off layer - it would leave a darker spot, but still mostly a cosmetic (to me, imo) result. Again, it worked as expected; however, again, if do a second application, just stay with it since would not be really "bare" (no oil etc. at all) metal. I'm not saying you'd "etch" it, but if had otherwise "brite" metal where not "rusted", some of the brite-ness, so to speak could be diminished. Why would that matter? Well, I'm not seeking to thing to have to hand polish it to bring that back and would/could look "odd", especially on an old blade seeking to preserve - not "restore". Again, that's a cosmetic thing, but for some - these "hints" may be a good reminder. I see allot of metal that someone tried to "clean up" and ruined the cosmetic value of the blade - functionally, a blade is a blade otherwise. If seeking to "preserve" old metal that was likely cared for the past 150 years or so, I'd say, one application up to 10 min then stop - using a green scotch pad (wear gloves, well vented room). Then no more than (for me) a 3 min, generous coating to keep from drying at all, using a green scotch pad (no metal or abrasives) - should do it and the item look cared for not "cleaned up". Otherwise, e.g., ask a conservatory, or "museum" staff in a public agency or look farther into it. From what I've experienced is, if left on, to dry, would remove the "brite" aspect. Some may be okay with that. I would immediately oil, or silicone lube spray allowed to dry or as you like. Since you are with water rinsing it, deactivating it (unless want to do more) just make sure it's actually dry and or WD40 displace any dampness. I hope that helps. (If you work in a shipyard with 5 gal buckets, your on your own :) )
S**E
This Stuff is Awesome!
I posted my before & after pics of my bathroom caddy which holds my flat iron, curling iron etc., which was badly rusted to the extent that I was going to trash it but I couldn’t find another one just like it online anywhere & couldn’t remember what store I bought it from. Since it is a quality piece I decided to give this rust removal a try. Of course I read the reviews first as I always do to determine if it was worth purchasing & I prayed that it would work for my caddy. I’m So glad I took the chance because this rust removing gel restored my caddy back to looking almost brand new. Oh & I did follow the instructions on how to use it first as well as used a rust removing brush on it prior applying the product as the instructions stated but the rest removing brush didn’t make it look even half way brand new, However it did help with making it look brand new after the rust removal gel did 99% of the job. Thank you Amazon for another Amazing product!
D**O
Works pretty well, not a miracle rust remover.
Great for little rust spots, I would still thoroughly wire brush the rust before hand. Don't be stupid like me and accidently get it in your mouth working under your car. Tastes very sweet and sour, very toxic though. If you accidently get it in your mouth call 911.
C**R
It has it't problems.
This stuff is for light rust only. It barely made a dent to my car's trunk and it also ate away at the paint. Other rust removal products I have used in the past have never been harmful to paint but when I came back to wipe away the gel, my paint wiped away too! Also, don;'t leave it on overnight or it'll be very hard to get off. The reason I purchased the jelly instead of a liquid is because my car's trunk has some curves that the liquid would just slide off of. And I will give it some stars because it did not slide off and it did remove some rust. I imagine leaving it on for about 6 hours at a time and then replacing the gel would remove the heavy rust completely. Since half the paint in my trunk is gone I figured I would just use rust converter on what's left, then paint the trunk again. So things will work out in the end but now I'm spending a little more than I intended.
D**L
Would definitely buy again
Works very well.
G**.
A good product that does the job.
J**G
I did not leave reviews on amazon a lot, but I have to do this one. this is the best rust remover I have used. I use it to remove rust from really tiny spots in the car. it works great!! just leave it on the surface, after 2mins, clean with water, and all rust is gone. Really good Products.
R**Y
What a great product. Usual Henkel quality. Brings things back like new with minimal scrubbing and mess.
A**N
Works really well.
M**N
It can peal rust off a rail spike
Trustpilot
2 maanden geleden
1 week geleden