LiftMaster Receiver Logic Control Board 41A5021-1M-315 Chamberlain LiftMaster, Black

My 2007 Liftmaster model 41A5021-1H-315 quit working. It wouldn't go up. I heard a rapid clicking and the convenience light blinked rapidly. I had 120vac to the logic board but no output. I was certain the logic board was the problem so I ordered this one which arrived in 2 days. (Thanks Amazon) The installation takes about 5 minutes. (There are several YT vids on how to) The plasic cover that holds the board was a perfect fit. This was a third of the cost of a new opener and considerably less work. The new logic board works flawlessly. Pairing the original remote to the new logic board took about 5 secs. Pairing: 1) Press and HOLD the button on the remote 2) Press and RELEASE the purple button on logic board while still holding the remote button 3) The Led next to purple button will blink. 4) Pairing is complete. The instructions are printed on the opener next to the purple pairing button. Highly recommend.

Worked perfect in fixing my garage door. Took all of 10 minutes (would have been faster if I didn't have fat fingers) to put in. Just for screws to remove. Then pull the ribbon out. HINT: If you have any trouble attaching the ribbon to the new logic board, there is a small protruding plastic edge along the base of the ribbon port. Just slide along it till you reach the prongs to align it. This was a replacement for the model "41a5021-1h-315." I chose this model instead because it matched the frame of the one I was replacing. The "41a5021-1h-315" model you can find on Amazon didn't match my case for some reason. It may work for other people but I didn't want to chance having to remove the board from the frame to put in my old frame. Glad this worked out so well. Seriously, had to do this after getting out of my car in the rain to physically open my garage door. That was my kick in the pants to fix things. And at 75 bucks to repair verse the average 300 bucks to replace, this was a good deal.

My garage door opener is a 1/3 HP AccessMaster (contractor series openers made my Chamberlain/Liftmaster). The opener was installed in 2005 and worked ok until earlier this week when it stopped responding to any of the wireless remotes although the wall button still worked. I pulled the logic board and saw that one capacitor had leaked and two resistors were burnt. The motor was ok and the gears were in good shape, so I decided to replace just the logic board instead of getting a new opener. The board part number was 41A5021-1H-315, with a purple learn button. The 315 indicates it uses 315 MHz to communicate with the wireless remotes - as opposed to 310, 370, or 390 MHz. This replacement board (41A5021-1M-315) works great. The replacement took less than 20 minutes and it took another twenty minutes to program the remotes and my car.

The garage door people said my garage door opener can't be repair. They quoted me $$$ to replace the entire system. I figured it is the control board that wasn't working. No contractor took up a job this small so I ordered this and DIY it. Easy to install and programmed my remotes. Save me $$$ for a new install Save the environment for not sending the old me to landfill! Win Win for me and the earth!

Our door opener stopped receiving signals from all of the remotes, including the factory remotes, the built-in car remote and the keypad at the door. We tried unplugging the unit to reset it and the door would go up or down once then revert to no signal received. I did a little research and decided to try changing the control board. The board seems to be OEM and it was very easy to install, assuming you're comfortable working on a step ladder. Installed it a month ago and it works great. Follow the included programming instructions that are printed on a sheet of paper in the box. The instructions are different from what's printed on the board and very easy to do.

As others here have said, VERY easy repair. Entire repair took less than 30 mins including programming 3 remotes. Corrected the intermittent opening/closing response of my garage door opener to 100% and restored it's 100 yard reception range. Repeating a couple of tips already listed in previous posts: Label existing input wires in relation to the posts they are attached to on the back of motor. Set the up and down force controls on the new unit to the same settings as the existing board. Only minor negative is the price of the board: At $135.00 (including tax), it was over 1/2 the cost of a new opener. While replacing the board saved the labor of replacing and re-rigging the opener, the convenience came at a relatively high cost.

I bought this because my transmitter and/or receiver (logic board) was acting up. I had my existing logic board for 10 years and it worked great, but then something strange happened - I’m still not sure what it was, but I noticed the lightbulb was out, but the lightbulb itself was ok, so I cleaned the contacts and the lightbulb worked again. I then proceeded to replace the logic board (this one) and use a different transmitter that I had from when I bought my house, with a good battery that I tested, that had only been used a few times in the past 10 years…and the garage door just opened whenever it felt like it. Actually it seemed to open consistently twice a day, but all other times was a gamble. So finally I bought a new transmitter and that fixed it. I don’t know why a new transmitter made a difference, unless maybe the frequency was slightly different. I had heard about some neon lights causing interference in the 315MHz range… The cost of this logic board is almost the cost of a completely new unit, so somewhat expensive, but it worked.

Tal como se describe,, fácil de instalar y funcionó sin mayor problema

Saved me having to buy and install whole new unit. I just wish it was less expensive (compared to replacing the whole unit) Having trouble with syncing my remote..

Exactly as described, easy install!

Had to return the product