Tri-Angle Diamond Sharpening Stones For Professional-Grade Finishing And Polishing - 2-Pack - 204D

This is the missing part of a Sharpmaker. The brown stones don't cut aggressively enough to remove nicks or change the profile angle of an edge. What would take an hour with the brown stones is a few minutes with these. I use the large DMT diamond plates for sharpening woodworking tools, so I'm used to not using heavy pressure. Some reviewers have said the diamonds fall off. Not for me with light pressure. Once you have used diamonds, you will quickly grow impatient with anything else for coarse sharpening. I use the diamonds, then side of brown stones, then side of white stones. I don't use the edges for anything except serrations if they fit, or the occasional hooked blade. It is true you can buy a nice diamond plate and a 4000 grit Shapton glass stone for about the same money as this plus the sharpmaker, but for ease of use I would recommend this for knives (not chisels or other woodworking tools of course). It's much easier to hold the knife vertically than to try to maintain an angle on a horizontal plate. Some people have built stands to hold their stones or plate at a similar 15 or 20 degree from vertical angle, if that appeals to you. If you are only going to sharpen short pocket knives, an alternative is to buy the lansky-style DMT aligner sharpening kit and get the optional ceramic stone for it if you want a polished edge. In addition to learning to feel for the burr and maintaining a constant angle, it's helpful to have a 10x triplet magnifier and look at the edge after each sharpening step. I see plenty of you tube videos where people will go through six waterstones in a ritual to get an edge, when a few more strokes on half that would remove any scratches with much less time. Look at videos from knife makers, not users - they don't waste time.

Funktionieren sehr gut. Messer werden unkompliziert sauscharf.

This additional set of sharpening "stones" for the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker (actually they are a pair of hollow steel triangles coated in industrial diamonds) sorted out knives that were particularly dodgy (having been through the AnySharp Knife Sharpener -- not recommended!). A worthwhile addition to the main device.

Drawing the blade in a downstroke is akin to riding a bicycle down some steps. Instead, I start with the hilt end of the blade on the bottom of the rod and then draw the knife upwards and backwards on each stroke. This is much smoother and easier to develop a feel for what's happening and this motion quickly defines the blade apex and develops a wire burr on the opposite side. I usually start with up to 5 strokes on one side to develop the burr, switch to the other side to knock that burr off and define the other angle, repeat as necessary and taper down to one stroke alternating between sides to achieve a rough working edge. Move to the coarse and then fine or superfine rods to finish the blade. Some steels work best with a coarser, toothier edge while others benefit from additional finishing. An app I found on the Play Store, Knife Steel Composition is helpful. It tells you the steel composition and percentages, a brief history of the steel's purpose and development and often includes comments related to sharpening. Fine grained steels like smoother finishes, larger carbide steels often cut better if left toothier. In any case, I usually finish my blades on a strop, sometimes with compound on the flesh side, sometimes not. This helps to remove traces of the wire burr and finishes the blade edge to a nice smooth cutter.

Indubbiamente costose ma di ottima fattura e di durata molto lunga. Non vedo errori o difetti di sorta (a parte il prezzo, che comunque è legato alla qualità). Il sistema id affilatura è molto semplice e quindi molto pratico anche a persone non completamente in grado di affilare una lama mediante una pietra.