Daisy Powerline 35 Multi-Pump Pneumatic Pellet/BB Rifle

I'm not an airgun expert but this little Daisy Powerline 35 really impressed me. It is much easier to pump than my Crosman recruit, getting to ten pumps is a breeze for me with the powerline instead of a chore. Those are the only 2 multi pumps I own and even though the recruit is listed at 680 fps and the 35 is supposed to be 625 max the powerline delivers great power out of box, it easily seems a match for the recruit. My complaints are similar to what others have pointed out, loading pellets is a pain and the bb capacity isn't very high. This is a great addition to any collection but if i was only gonna buy one bb or pellet gun it probably wouldn't be this one. While it is a great gun the Crosman brands that include the pellet clip system are worlds easier to load. UPDATE: After enjoying this gun for 8 months i upgraded to a Powerline 880 and have just given this one to my 11 year old niece. She can get to ten pumps but is struggling after #5. I put a scope on it and she can shoot it pretty good, albeit you don't wanna push the distance on it too far. I still think this gun has it's place and was fun to shoot, it actually handles the bb's better than a rifled gun like the 880 does and so is more versitle really, at close range the 35 does a pretty good job on pellets and i've feed it a variety of ammo from daisy, crosman and gamo. It's shorter than the 880 so is a better gun for kids even though it's a little tough for them to pump but i'd say for kids 13 up it should be easier. Frankly i like this gun and would have kept it if i hadn't needed space and a gift at the time

Not a toy! Very accurate and very fun! Feather weight. Price is a bargain. Of many air guns this is a favorite. A two inch pattern is achievable at 10 meters with open sights and even better with a cheap scope. It's all plastic aside from the metal barrel and whatever is needed internally. Not sorry I bought. Recommended to collectors and all enthusiasts.

Great BB gun. 1. The 35 is a smooth bore so it is optimized for BB's. The 880 is rifled and therefore optimized for pellets. 2. Pumps very easy and I actually prefer the short throw pump lever over the longer 880. 3. It pumps up quietly without the prominent clacking sound. 4. It has a shorter length of pull but even at 6'2" tall, I can still shoot it easily. 5. The rear sights us windage and elevation adjustable. The front sight is white dot. 6. The gun is very light and maneuverable. 7. It has a dove tail on top for mounting scopes. 8. The gun shoots very very accurate with BB's at 6-8 pumps and does ok with pellets but really is a BB gun. 9. The open breech design makes it easy to clean the manufacturing grime out of the barrel before shooting. 10. Most of the inexpensive air rifle and 22 rimfire scopes will with the dove tail. 11. Prints nice groups at 15 yards using Daisy Precion Max BB's, shooting from a resting position. You do need to keep count of your pumps as one extra pump can cause a flyer.

I purchased this gun to replace my eight year old daughter's Daisy Buck. The Buck is a bit too small for her now and she's never been able to easily cock the Buck. The under lever cocking effort is too high. In fact, after getting her fingers "bit" by the Buck a couple of times while struggling to cock it, she's afraid to even try it now. I read reviews elsewhere that the Powerline 35 is just about the easiest air gun to charge (pump) and my daughter and I have found the reports to be true. In fact, apart from its size, the Daisy Powerline 35 is better than the Buck for a young shooter. The length of pull is still too long for my daughter so I removed the stock and cut 2-3/4 inches from it using my chop saw. I used the same fine tooth blade that I use to shorten quality firearm wood stocks and it worked great! I used a hand spray bottle of water to keep the blade and plastic cool while cutting. I plan to CAD-up and print a new butt pad for my daughter's gun in nylon using my 3D printer, but I'm sure a number of other commercial options also exist. The stock is actually fully functional without a new pad--even with the open plastic chambers and ribbing showing at the butt. I can also 3D print a coupling to restore the stock to its original length later, as necessary. My daughter's gun is quite accurate, but mixed accuracy reports seem to be the norm with this air gun model. Tom Gaylord tested a Powerline 35 and reviewed it on his blog. It was disappointingly inaccurate. After several readers told him they'd experienced otherwise, Gaylord contacted Daisy and they sent him another 35 for testing. Sure enough. The second gun was very accurate. I believe that a moderately heavy trigger pull teaches effective trigger control and technique to new shooters and I'm all for a 4-1/2 to 5 pound trigger on a youth gun, but the Powerline 35 trigger is far too heavy. Accordingly, I "de-lawyered" it and brought the effort down to my preferred pull, Although it's not a job for the non-mechanically inclined or inexperienced, it is still a relatively easy gunsmithing task. Here are the general steps I undertook: 1. Unloaded the gun and opened and closeed the bolt to cock it. (I think it's easier to disassemble when cocked.) I took the safety off. 2. Opened ("half pumped") the forward hand guard and remove the four screws holding it to the pump arm while noting the location of the spring latch. 3. Removed all the screws from both sides of the plastic receiver and placed them in marked baggies (they are different lengths). 4. With the bolt handle up, I pulled up on the receiver plastic side panel to remove it from the receiver. It pivots at the front where a tab engages with the metal receiver. I was careful avoid displacing the safety and losing its detent spring and ball. 5. Flipped the gun to the other side and similarly removed the left plastic side panel. 6. Pushed the large pin out from the black painted part of the receiver. (Actually, it just about fell out.) 7. Extracted the trigger group, action, and barrel sleeve from the rear using a pair of pliers. It took a pretty good pull. The piston and oil wipe assembly separated from the aluminum cylinder bore. The aluminum cylinder remained with the trigger group and action assembly. 8. Pulled the aluminum cylinder from the action to reveal the air pump valving. 9. Pushed the pin from the air pump valve to remove the valve, seal, and spring assembly. 10. Pushed the pin out of the transfer arm, located forward of the trigger (the transfer arm is unpainted metal whereas the trigger is painted black) to displace the arm to the rear and free its forked end from under the circlip at the end of the transfer valve shaft. The transfer arm did not need to be removed nor did I remove or even touch the trigger on its own pin. 11. Used a small pin punch and the tip of a small screwdriver to rotate the transfer valve retainer (the part under the circlip) approximately 90 degrees, freeing the transfer valve and spring assembly from the valve seat and pump body. 12. Removed the transfer valve assembly and spring. 13. The spring is far stronger than necessary to ensure that the valve is closed and providing a seal from the time of the first pump The increasing air pressure from pumping also helps to force the valve closed. This heavy transfer valve spring is the cause of the heavy trigger pull. I cut about 2-3 coils from the spring, resulting in no preload of the spring in its assembly on the shaft at rest (when uninstalled in the gun). In this uninstalled condition, my shortened spring resulted in about a 1/8" gap between the circlip and the valve retainer, because the spring is no longer preloaded and driving the circlip hard against the retainer. I'm sure I could have cut more length from the spring and still achieved a seal, but my goal was to only reduce the trigger pull to 4-1/2 to 5 lbs. rather than the bare minimum possible. Assembly was the opposite of the above steps. Notes: 1. I was able to pry the spring upward from its seat (not the end with the white ball valve) and cut the spring without removing the circlip. I cut a little at a time and tested the transfer valve force in its seat several times. Now I know that approximately 1/8" gap at the circip is perfect for my needs. 2. I read elsewhere that reducing the spring length enough to only provide the bare minimum valve seal against seat pressure results in about a 2-1/2 lb trigger. Reportedly, about a 1/16" trigger spring length reduction was also accomplished along with the valve spring modification. However, I did not reduce the length of my trigger spring at all, because I found it unnecessary to do so. (Theoretically, a shorter trigger spring would lengthen the trigger pull, but it might be necessary to regain enough trigger travel for proper function with a bare minimum length valve spring. While certainly no Savage Accutrigger, the trigger is much better after spending about an hour of my time on it. UPDATE: In the interest of seeing how the trigger would perform with a lighter trigger spring, I found a hardware store spring wound from smaller diameter spring wire (lower spring rate) than the original trigger spring. I could have cut and shortened the original trigger spring, as others have done, but shortening the spring would increase the spring rate and reduce the spring "preload" or compression between the trigger and transfer arm. A higher spring rate might be perceived as undesirable "stacking" when pulling the trigger, as the resistance builds quickly. I wanted to see if I could achieve a two stage trigger effect where the first stage would be due to trigger spring compression and the second stage would be due to the transfer valve spring. After installing the new and lighter spring, I measured the trigger pull between 2 lbs - 9 oz and 2 lbs - 8 oz, with anything from two to ten pumps. I never measured the pull before and after my previous mod but I'd guess it was around 6-1/2 pounds before shortening the valve spring and 4-1/2 pounds after shortening the valve spring. The new 2-1/2 pound pull feels less gritty than the heavier pulls and there is more of a two stage effect, but the trigger still has quite a good deal of take-up and over-travel. At 2-1/2 pounds, it now has the pull weight of an Accutrigger but still lacks the quality! But it's tough to expect a $35 Daisy BB gun trigger to work as well as a $190 Savage rimfire rifle Accutrigger. All in all, I think even a discerning shooter who is accustomed to light sporting triggers would be fairly happy with this modified Powerline 35 trigger.

ACCURACY The accuracy on this gun is great. I have have NO PROBLEMS at all with this gun. I can get at least a quarter sized grouping at about 30 feet without a rest. It has both elevation control and windage. I don't see why people complain, quarter sized groups at 30 feet is great for $28. POWER This gun isn't that powerful but really feels it and looks it. It looks like the Remington Airmaster 77 that my friend has. He paid $100 for it and it only goes 755 FPS. It does go around 620 FPS with pellets. BB's it only hits around 600. I'm using 100% lead pellets and Zinc Plated BB's. ASSEMBLY Most of the gun is cheap, but durable, plastic. The gearbox and barrel are both steel. Everything else is plastic. The stock IS hollow. The pump is not hard to pump after some pellgunoil. For $28 bucks you can't go wrong. This is a great rifle for a cheap budget. I recommend it and you should get it.