LONYE SZM-V16-FA-63 Microwave Door Switch Fit for LG GE Microwave Oven SZM-V16-FD-63 3B73362F PS3522738 (Normally Open)(1 Pc)

Worked great. Fixed my microwave in ten minutes. Easy to install. Fit right in , and cheap.

I have a 12+yr old GE WES1450 microwave oven. Great piece of equipment. Yesterday randomly it stopped humming, stopped heating, and turntable stopped turning. Found a YouTube video that explained it’s probably a door switch. So I took my microwave’s cover off - please don’t do this before learning safety precautions or it can kill you - and it turned out to be the bottom door switch, aka primary interlock that had mechanically broken. This part was an exact replacement by the part number. Looks great quality. Fits right. Works right. Had it overnighted and my microwave oven is working perfectly again not even 24hrs after breaking, and for an excellent price to boot. Thoroughly satisfied. My multimeter agrees.

Works perfect on my air fryer

I used this as a replacement switch when my Air Fryer ceased to turn on. I was impressed how easy it was to install. Saved me from purchasing another PowerXL Vortex Pro Air Fryer.

I have the GE Microwave model JES1142SJ02. My microwave interior would light up when the door was open; the keyboard would work, showed the time, beeped as you pressed the keypad and counted down but it wouldnt light up, the turntable wouldnt rotate or heat up if you tried to use the microwave. After some reseach, i determined it might be a switch problem. I opened up the microwave and checked all four switches and found it was the top primary switch that malfunctioned. I bought the FA-63 switch as oppose to the FD-63 one because the specs stated it is 16(3) 250V which my old defective one has printed on the body. Unfortunately, this new switch doesnt state that on the body as it has 16 A 250V printed on the body. I dont know the difference between 16(3)A as oppose to just 16A but hopefully it is 16(3) A 250V as the specs says and what my old defective switch is. The switch I replaced is the primary switch. Its the top switch which the top door latch contacts and triggers. Inside the microwave has a printed set of diagram of the circuits and a flow chart on how to determine what can be the problem with the microwave. You will need security screw bit to remove the cover. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you do anything inside the microwave as you can get electricuted by the stored electricity in the capacitor. So far so good. My microwave is back to normal and working properly. A $5 switch saved me the cost of a new microwave and over $100. Update.....11/25/2020 The switch only lasted for a year. Ordered another one and solved the problem again. Hope this lasts longer than just one year. Knocked off one star. Update.....12/21/2022 The 2nd switch is still working. So far 2+ years Update..... 11/30/2024 The 2nd switch burnt out. Replaced it again. Working again

I replaced a burned out one I'm my parents' microwave. so far been working very well.

Less expensive than replacing the entire microwave! If your microwave stops working, there is a good chance that one of the micro switches has failed. If you're handy, start taking apart your microwave and look at the 3 or so switches that are associated with the opening mechanism. If one of them doesn't click like it should, that's likely the failed switch.

Only operated for 5 months. Began getting a spotty contact and within a week wasn't working at all.