RP145

This kit works amazing. Its very quiet. My raydon levels were at just above 17. It has been running for about 9 hrs now and my levels have dripped to 2.4 and seems to be going downward more. I did the install myself and it is very easy. If you are handy at all you can do this installation. I also used the jackal sump pit cover.

Perfect replacement for my 2018 Festa AMG Maverick. Easy to swap out, kicked right on, manometer confirmed it was working. Radon test performed a week later confirmed safe levels. Saved tons of money by swapping out myself!

This radon pump is relatively quite, small, has good airflow, easy to install and a good value for the money.

Hubby installed this and it’s working great! Our radon test went from 7.8 to .24!!! He has yet to seal it to the floor so we are getting a little seeping in from the cracks but an acceptable reading is anything under 4, so we are super happy! We saved tons of money watching YouTube videos and did it ourselves!

Very quiet unit and simple to install. I replaced an identical model that was years old and in which the bearings were going. The old unit had solid copper wiring, this came with stranded aluminium. Not ideal. Make sure to account for this with the install if you are connecting to copper wiring. The connectors they come with are not appropriate for copper to aluminum connections.

Very easy to put together and replace

If you are replacing an old radon fan or have a newer home, with a passive random system already (e.g., a pipe leading from the sub-slab of concrete through the attic and to the roof), along with a pre-installed electrical outlet in the attic, then this is a fairly simple project to do yourself. The RadonAway 145c is the most commonly used fan. It has moderate suction, and it is ideal for gravel and concrete slab basements. Below is a variety of information pertaining to installing the RadonAway 145c and more: Get a radon detector that measures a weekly average because radon can vary greatly throughout the day and week. I have the AirThings radon detector from Amazon. I had a second one and the readings were the same, so at least the reliability is good. Get a RadonAway manometer to test the suction of your radon fan. This will ensure the fan is working well and there are no leaks in the system. For installation, search “Installing And Understanding Radon Mitigation System Manometer” by Heathy Air Solutions on YouTube. However, ensure you drill the hole in the pipe about two inches lower than the top of the manometer. Also, when you get the manometer, it might not be even on both sides or set to 0. Don’t worry because it adjusts by sliding up and down. As for it not being even on each side, that is also normal. It will even out once you take the tube stoppers off the top of either side. As for installing the fan, here are the steps I used: 1. Get all the supplies: radon fan, 2 pipe-to-fan connectors/couplings (the 145c model has a 4” connection size and my radon system pipe was 3”, so I got 2 Fernco 3”-to-4” couplings), electrical cord (HomeAire (AKA RadonAway) Power Cord Kit - 6 foot on Amazon will get the job done) [yes, it does not come with a power cord for some reason], PVC hand saw or fine-tooth sawzall, razor for reaming the inside of the pipe after cutting (optional), file for filing the edges of the PVC after cutting (optional), and flat-head screw driver or socket wrench for tightening the coupling. 2. If applicable, and the pipe goes to the attic, install in the attic, not the basement. 3. For installing the power cord, your fan might have two or three wires for the electrical. According to an Amazon answer by RadonAway, either way is fine, and it just depends on which manufacturing facility produced it. However, the power cord has three wires. If your fan only has two, then just cap the third one on the power cord, the green/ground wire. 4. Test the fan by plugging it in prior to going up in your attic. Shake it to ensure nothing is loose or trapped inside the fan. 5. Affix the coupling to the fan on both ends prior to heading into the attic. 6. Take all your supplies to the attic. 7. Cut the pipe. I cut out a 11.25” chunk of pipe because the total length of the fan and the couplings was 14.25”. Then, I subtracted 1.5” for each end of the coupling. 8. [OPTIONAL] File the outer rim of the pipe on both sides. 9. [OPTIONAL] Using a razor or reaming tool, ream the inner rim of the piper on both sides. 10. Plug the fan in, then check your manometer to ensure it has proper suction. The max should be about 1.75, and mine come out to 1.25. As for the sound, it has a fairly mild humming, even through the ceiling, but you will get used to it in no time. I sleep with a sound machine, and at worst, it just adds to that noise. I hope this helps and saves you some time!

This company's business model is to deal only with Radon Mitigation companies – they refuse to guaranty fans sold directly to end consumers. OK, so I get that they don't want the liability of some idiot trying to design their own mitigation system, but once the system is designed, installed, and the fan is simply being replaced with exactly the same model, one might hope for them to stand behind their product. I have had 3 RadonAway RP145c fans in less than 7 years, and even that failure rate is a little misleading. When I bought my house, a high radon test result had required the seller to install a mitigation system before the sale. When I moved in, several months after the system had been installed, the fan sounded like a jet engine, but never having needed a radon system before, I decided the noise level was normal and I would just have to live with it. Unfortunately, after 6 years, it had not only gotten much louder, but also began making clanking noises. OK, it had been 6 years and maybe 6 years was all the lifetime one could expect from fan units that run continuously, so I replaced the fan with the same model through Amazon. This first replacement fan was initially quieter than the original, but it began getting noisier after 4-5 months. After 2½ years, the fan motor bearings had worn out and not only was the fan louder than the first one, but the fan blades also began bouncing up and down on the shaft and were banging inside the housing. At this point, the fan (on the outside the house) produced more noise inside an adjacent bathroom than its own ceiling fan. The fan ductwork attached to the side of the house transmitted so much noise through the outside wall to an upstairs bedroom that it was difficult to sleep. So, not even 3 years, but time for a third try. Replaced the fan again, still with the same model as was originally installed by the mitigation company, and... was pleasantly surprised to discover that this third fan was quieter than my refrigerator, even when standing right beside it outdoors! However, as they say, that was then, this is now! I installed it in late November. It's now mid-February, a little over 2 months later, and last week this third fan suddenly became about twice as loud as the either of the first two. Within a week – apparently due (again) to bad bearings. VERY DISAPPOINTING, to say the least. Remember that the fan unit is factory sealed to prevent air leakage. Unfortunately, that also means that the fan cannot be serviced, so that if it fails, it must be discarded. After 3 tries with RadonAway, I believe that I have given them more than the benefit of the doubt. I even called them after the second failure to ask whether they would like me to send their fan back so they could work out why the fans (and particularly the fan bearings) were failing. Given that the whole point of a radon mitigation fan is for it to run continuously (AND QUIETLY!) for years, I would have expected that they might be interested in making their products more reliable. Apparently, not so much and they declined my offer! At this point, I will try another brand for my 4th fan. I doubt that any other company could produce a less reliable product. BOTTOM LINE: Not surprisingly, I do not recommend this product.