Genie 36179R.S Garage Door Opener Trolley Assembly Genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Part

Worked as intended with no effort or need "to make it work" or anything like that. It was a breeze to install.

Perfect fit for the garage at our rental. Cheap and reliable.

My Genie garage door opener went FUBAR a few weeks ago, and it became clear that I needed to replace the trolley, as well as the shaft coupler and the limit switches for both up and down extremes of the door. The original equipment trolley part is a few dollars more expensive that the generic parts, but I would recommend the OEM part because it has metallic teeth engaging the door screw, rather than plastic teeth in the generic parts. It is very easy to replace by dropping the door to the closed position and unfastening the door end of the screw rail, which is a single nut. Disconnecting the upper end of the door linkage from the trolley, releasing the old trolley, and moving the loose end of the rail off to the side a bit allows you to slide the old trolly off the end of the rail and replace with the new trolly (with teeth in the "disengaged" position). Reconnecting the loose end of the rail, re-attaching the upper end of the door linkage, and re-engaging the new trolley, and you are done! If you have to replace the trolley, I would recommend also checking the limit switches for both maximum UP and maximinum DOWN, because you may find that it was failure of the limit switch(es) that precipitated the trolley failure. It would also be useful to check the shaft coupler, but that is most easily done by dropping the power head and rail to the garage floor. You probably do not need to do this, unless after replacing the trolley and checking the limit switches, you find that the door either does not move well or sounds pretty rough. Once the power head and rail are on the floor, it is very easy to replace the coupler.

The trolley on my garage door was worn out after 12 years of daily abuse, resulting in noisy slipping, and occasionally not being able to open the door without human assist. I thought I was going to have to replace the entire door opener. Glad I found this part on Amazon.Installation was a little tricky, as I could not remove the trolley without unbolting the screw rail from the wall. The garage door spring was in the way and I had to be able to lift the rail to remove the trolley. Once that was accomplished, the old trolley slid right off, and the new one right on. This trolley looks and fits like OEM for my Genie opener.Since I was at it, I also adjusted the spring tension on the door itself. The lost spring tension over the years had resulted in the garage door being really heavy, which is why I think the old trolley finally gave out. Be VERY CAREFUL if you adjust the garage door tension spring yourself. Make sure you have the proper tools, and be prepared for a very big spring kick as soon as the spring is loosened. Get a pro if you need one.With the spring adjusted and the new trolley greased up and in place, the garage door opener works like new again, and is much MUCH quieter than it was before the fix. I'm so glad someone is selling these. At the current price, it's very much worth it.

The item was a perfect replacement for a 25 year old Genie Garage door Opener and installed easily in a few minutes. However, the unit broke with the same failure that others have noted below, the plastic flanges holding the until to the track broke after a couple weeks of use. IMPORTANT – I found that the upper limit switch was broken/not functioning, causing the carriage to slam into the rail end stop every time it was opened. I have little doubt that this impact is what caused this as well as the original carriage to fail (the original stripped) I’ve since ordered the upper limit switch as well as a second carriage. I don’t expect any further failures. Make sure your upper limit switch is functioning prior to preplacement.

Works great

Just installed, hope it lastsIdentical to the ?15yo original (on the left), unlike other reviews I opted not to immediately swap parts. Both old/new seemed to have the same thickness so purchased a small can of grease and installed the new one 3d ago. Garage door has gone up and down several times without a hitchDidn’t come with any instructions but looking at the old one, it was intuitive. Didn’t come w grease, but looking at the old one, it was intuitive.Didn’t watch any YouTube videos first-wish I had of-not because of THIS piece, but the videos might’ve told me what was wrong with the door in the first place. I automatically assumed the motor was dying and couldn’t pull up, not knowing that there are “teeth involved”. Cost me $125 for the door doll to come out just to tell me what was wrong (not fix, just to tell me). I then bought this inexpensive part, and 20min later all was well.Lesson learned. YouTube has a plethora of advice to consider before going full “expert” and spending a lot of doughNote: one thing the door guy DID do, as he too was trouble shooting, was shore up the rail. It was sagging an inch or two, so he screwed it to a cross beam: this relives some of the stress on this rollerSome buyers suggest keeping a spare. But I think this “shoring” will help tremendouslyWill update in a few months if it fails

Perfect fit on the garage